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m16ty last won the day on October 12 2017

m16ty had the most liked content!

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About m16ty

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  1. m16ty

    E9 manifold leak

    Thanks for the info. As of right now though, my $5 repair is holding strong.
  2. m16ty

    M1000 tank transporter

    That is actually our warehouse the trailer is in, used to store customer’s machinery and goods. The Mack picture is our shop, which is a sectioned off portion of the warehouse. The trailer would have filled up our whole shop, with no room to get anything else in there, which is why it’s in the warehouse portion.
  3. m16ty

    M1000 tank transporter

    Some military trailers have a interchangeable kingpin, but not that particular trailer. I’m sure it would be possible to permanently change the kingpin, but it’s a press fit and the kingpin shaft is also tied into the trailer steering mechanism. I’ve got a 3 1/2” 5th wheel on the way for the Mack.
  4. m16ty

    M1000 tank transporter

    Got the trailer home. Ran the apu and what hyd I could (some broken hoses). Needs a little tlc, a few hyd lines, some air lines, and a few tires, but I'm working on it. Also have the RD822sx in the shop awaiting a big 5th wheel and a AT1202 auxiliary.
  5. m16ty

    E9 manifold leak

    Here you go- https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn/?searchterm=rope+gasket&hdrsrh=true
  6. m16ty

    E9 manifold leak

    I’ll try to get a pic today, but all you can really see now is the hose clamp. The rope is almost too flexible, requiring 2 sets of hands to work it into place. First thing I did was clean the joint the best I could, getting down into the crack as much as I could. The 1/8 rope is small enough to be worked into the crack. I just kept working it around the pipe until the crack was full. The 1/4 rope went on the outside, but still on the taper of the female piece, using the hose clamp to push the rope against the taper and force everything tight to the joint. I also found that there are two different types of high temp rope gasket, silica and fiberglass. The silica has a rating of around 2,000 deg and the fiberglass had a rating of around 1,000 deg. I went with the silica, although it is twice as exspensive, but no more than I used, I think I had around $20 in material.
  7. m16ty

    E9 manifold leak

    Well today I decided to tackle the manifold leak. I ordered some silica rope gasket from MSC in 1/8" and 1/4" diameter. Took the 1/8 and was able to force it into joint with a screwdriver for 3 rounds. Next I rapped the 1/4 around it 3 rounds and then forced it in tight with a hose clamp. After a test run, everything is holding good. The silica rope gasket is rated for around 2,000 deg.
  8. I had some dumptrucks in the mid-1990s. We were getting $50 per hr back then, and it wasn’t enough.
  9. I guess I have to ask why?
  10. m16ty

    Fuller AT1202 1880 yoke

    I guess I wasn't clear in my first post. The auxiliary came with 1710 yokes, 1810 yokes are available for the auxiliary. The torque rating for the AT1202 is 35,700 lb-ft, the highest rated auxiliary I could find. Looks like I'll have to do what Freightrain mentioned, have the driveshafts made up with the original 1880 yokes on one end, and 1810 yokes on the other. I've got a couple of more phone calls to make to people that work with these transmissions a lot, before I cut anything up. Are 1880 joints that uncommon on large trucks? It's the first ones I've seen, but it's also the first RD800 I've dealt with. They list the Fuller AT1202 as a factory option on the RD800 series, so you'd think somebody would make yokes to fit it. It just seems kind of counter-intuitive to add a auxiliary trans to increase torque, and then weaken the driveline.
  11. I’ve picked up a Fuller AT 1202 auxiliary trans for my RD822sx. The trans came with 1710 yokes, but the Mack has 1880 driveline. I can’t find a 1880 yoke anywhere to fit the Fuller AT-1202. My local driveshaft shop says the only thing he knows to do is make up 2 driveshafts with 1880 joints on one end ( to fit the main trans and rear end) and 1810 joints on the other end of the driveshaft to fit the auxiliary. Anybody got any other ideas?
  12. m16ty

    Mack 18 Speed Trans

    That is a good deal. If I needed one, I'd be all over that. Shoot, if I were closer, I'd almost buy it for a spare.
  13. m16ty

    E9 manifold leak

    I like this idea, I may give it a try. I’ve seen asbestos type rope that I’ve also thought about, but I’ve never seen any of it in a small enough dia to fit in the gap. The thinking was, get it shoved in there as far as you can, and then put a hose clamp against the joint to keep it from backing or blowing out. I’m also contemplating welding. It’s a joint that wouldn’t have to come apart in the future. The only problem is, it’s in a bad spot and I’m not sure I can get in there to weld it all the way. I’d rather try that first though, than some sort of sealer. If you use the sealer first and try to weld later, then you have the problem of removing all the sealer.
  14. m16ty

    E9 manifold leak

    If your valves are working right, there should never be an air passageway from the exhaust manifold to the atmosphere (other than out the stack). There may be a intake or exhaust valve open, but never at the same time.
  15. m16ty

    E9 manifold leak

    I’ve fought for 2 afternoons trying a minimally evasive way to remove the leaking joint, now I’m ready to give up. Only way I see at this point is to remove the whole passenger side manifold to get it apart. I think I’m going to try some exhaust putty and see if it works. I’m just afraid I’m going to end up with broken bolts and all the joints leaking, if I try to take it all off. Has anybody used the putty with decent results? I saw a YouTube video where a guy put a shop vac into the exhaust outlet when he applied the putty. Claimed it would suck the putty into the leak, makes sense to me.

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