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JoeH

Pedigreed Bulldog
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Everything posted by JoeH

  1. Also took the time to tighten the 2 loose bolt inside the rear axle. I have all new torque arms ready to go on, they're a pain to do when the body is on.
  2. New bumper is in a box on pallet, needs an emblem on the grill, wiper motors installed, and doors reassembled and installed. And passenger side fender plastics. I also bought a combo pyro/boost gauge that I'll need to wire up to make sure this truck is putting power to the wheels.
  3. Great trucks; you're going to want to fix this intake tube though, keep rain from getting in and ruining a nice truck. Also its letting unfiltered air in. This radiator has the reservoir in the top, you should just barely be able to touch it with your fingers. You can spot coolant leaks by looking for salt trails, common leak spots are the freeze plugs on the driver side, as well as the crossover hose (very short) between the front and rear head water manifolds, also on the driver side. Does seem strange that the oil is only on one side of the dipstick. Next time check the oil before starting the engine. I have an E7 that if I check it 5 minutes after shutting off it'll be a gallon low on oil, but if I check it first thing in the AM it's full.
  4. My Mack dealer uses PAI parts for engines frequently.
  5. It's gotta move along fast, the payment on the mixer for this truck is $2400/month. We're running one truck right now because we need the garage space to fix this thing. Spring is pretty much here, our season should be starting soon.
  6. Doors and misc. parts primed painted and curing in the booth, garage set to 70°F for the night. I'll give the parts a couple days to cure and work on other tasks in the meantime.
  7. Cab is on the truck, runs, everything is functional so far, new windshields. Painting doors, corner protectors and wiper motor plates tomorrow. The one steering tire has a small chunk missing from between the tread, and a bit of steel cord showing. The steer tires will definitely be getting replaced. Waiting on mounting hardware to replace bent brackets and questionable bolts to hold the mixer to the truck. All in all the project is going smoothly, just taking a long time.
  8. Early ETECH engines put the engine computer on the passenger side of the engine, under the turbo. Later ones are on the driver side.
  9. I don't see any reason why the engine wouldn't fit in your truck and work, assuming they're both ETECH or ASET AI engines. Might be minor differences on ambient air temperature sensors, but you can probably swap computers and make the 460 think it's the 300. Once again assuming the 460 is an ETECH. Turbo and injectors and a few other mechanical parts may be different.
  10. What year is the E7? Would help to know if it's an eup engine. What chassis is the donor engine from and what chassis needs it? Different chassis use different bulkhead connectors for mating the wiring between the engine and vehicle harnesses. There's a very thorough writeup on here regarding the AI delete. Cam, exhaust manifold, turbo/exhaust pipe, etc. What transmission is in the truck right now? You need to make sure the trans can take the extra power. Also a 300hp drive shaft is weaker than a 460 driveshaft.
  11. I'm contemplating dusting it off, hiring a team of horses and putting it in the Chalfont parade one of these years. 2 of the wheels are in the bed of the wagon so the forklift can set it onto the top of the shelf.
  12. "It was made in Pleasant Corners, Near New Tripoli, PA. Under the paint you can just make out "Sand Springs Roller Mill." I bartered for it from John Greenall. I forget the name of his farm. He was a participant with us in the Liberty Bell Trek in 1976. It is as close as I could find to what was probably used by Hartzel's between 1860 and 1930." - from my Dad. Our business has been around since 1860, used to be lumber yard and a feed mill. This wagon is definitely not fiberglass, it's very much made of wood. Wheels, spokes, hubs... All wood.
  13. Replacement cab is white now to match the other trucks. Pretty sure the wagon is from the 1800s. Don't really have any knowledge of its history, not sure if it has a tag plate on it somewhere. I'll have to inquire with my dad.
  14. I have a nice king pin press I bought at advance auto for my dodge 2500, it'd probably press the studs out if you had enough space on the backside for the tool to fit.
  15. JoeH

    air ride cabs

    Everything bolts right in. Steal the VIN from the donor truck so you can get new air bags and shock absorbers. The airbags are threaded if I recall. You grab it and spin it to get the bags out.
  16. JoeH

    air ride cabs

    I converted a 1988 RD690S to air cab. Literally found a 2002ish RD at a junk yard and bought the rear mount assembly. You need the exhaust stand/crossover bar, 2 brackets inside the frame rails that the shock absorbers bolt to (one bracket on each side) air bags, a plate that bolts to the underside of the cab, and the bolts that thread in from inside the cab. There's a leveling valve as well in that assembly, I think we tied our air supply in from the line going to the seat. Bolts right in, makes a world of difference on ride quality.
  17. Are your studs stamped with an L? Pretty sure my truck with Budds is right hand thread all around. I'd have to check on the steering axle. My 1979 has left hand thread on one side on the steer, with stud pilot rims. Rears were converted to spoke hubs in the 80's when we bought the truck. They're all right hand thread.
  18. I'd be texting my boss telling him I'm not safe to drive after that ordeal! Especially considering the bridge would likely still be closed by the time you got to it again...
  19. I think I'm going to wire it up, get the cab put on the truck and get the truck running/driving, then put all the glass in, paint the doors, and I think that will mean I'm ready to mount the mixer and start repairs on that!
  20. Primed Here's my wagon, because every truck guy should have a wagon... Painted Can't wait to put in the wiring!
  21. Please tell him to run the blink code test and figure out what the codes really are....
  22. "we're going to put 6 new injectors in, 6 new injectors lines, but they're going to leak oil, and by the way you need a reman engine after we do all that." ?....
  23. Is anyone else scratching their head as to how you get an oil leak from fuel injector lines mating up to the injectors?...
  24. What I don't understand is how taking off the injector lines cracks the nozzle cup down in the injector bore. Granted I've never had to pull injectors myself, but shouldn't the injector and thus the cup be locked into place by the injector retaining bolt(s)?
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