Mackman87

lol, that’s rough on a fella. I guess I should mention the pump has some governor issues so it’s coming off and going to pump shop. I’m curious about turning it up or if that’s possible to match a 454 setup. Obviously will pull injectors and would change turbo if the pump was turned up that much.

Well the truck pulls good, but it’s hard to say it pulls better than another 350.lol. I’m curious if a 454 would have a keyed cam like 427 or 460. Would the 454 have lower compression pistons.

Fellas, I have picked up a nice 1995 RD 688S. I ran the build sheet and it shows factory option as a full mechanical 350 E7 with an Eaton 8LL. When looking over the truck I see the mechanical pump (p7100) and I am told it’s an 350. When running the valves I noticed it has an E7 454 valve cover. Now I’m sure it is easy to grab the wrong cover if you have a few of these trucks and put it on but what’s the chances of that. I’m thinking they might have replaced engine as sometime and swapped an 454 and just put the pump and turbo off the 350 on it. Is there any way to verify if this is an actual 454?

If I’m not mistaken the ratings only changed if a cross brace was added to the diffs. One running from frame across to carrier. They made a random 50k setup as well in the 90’s, the end of the axle looked like a Rockwell though.

Lol, old dude I bought this truck off a couple years ago was a farmer. No offense to farmers but they don’t seem very committed to putting it back right, more of just make it work kinda situations.

you are correct, one portion of the tank (larger portion is primary tank and smaller portion of tank is secondary. It has a small tank inside rail of frame for air compressor relief valves and governor psi. I do have a couple of nice small tanks off a late model RD that I could use, but back to your question, I’m not sure if it would supply the right amount of volume with out breaking out the calculator to do some un welcomed math.lol. I could pretty easily do the two tank mount and leave primary on drivers side and move secondary (I believe, maybe I have that reversed) to passenger side with a small amount of re routing lines. It’s a single axle, the picture with the axle under the truck is the way it was when I bought the truck. It’s some kind of home made setup. The trailing bar set up was used with mack hangers. Which isn’t correct as mack hangers need an eyelid spring pack to be correct. The truck had the open hook on both ends of spring. This was causing drive line shift and vibrations and the trialing arm was some kinda home made deal. I’m going back with correct spring and pins and remove trailing arm all together.

Do you have any pictures of this setup?

Thank you, we have a few gravel trucks so it was very useful until I tore this one down.lol. Im in line with you as well. I think moving the tank to the other side might be more work than I really want to do unless it’s the only option. When I get my axle back from my differential guy I’m gonna either slide tank back or modify brackets.

here is a pic of tank setup prior to stripping truck down

Thanks for the reply’s guys. I was more curious if anyone had pictures of how they relocated driver side air tank to passenger side and routed their PTO drive shaft.

Fellas, I’m curious if anyone has a picture of their rear mount PTO set up? I have acquired one for my six speed and have everything working but my original PTO was on passenger side and my main air tank is on the driver side. The rear mount PTO looks like it has to have pump on drivers side as well unless I am missing something. Any ideas or pics on the right way to setup PTO drive shaft to remote pump would be awesome.

Any update on this? Did you ever find hubs

Anyone have any more info on this?