JoeH

12:00 noon on Monday can't come soon enough...

I've been playing with Grok, Elon Musk's ai on X. Anyone else doing similar? Here's my latest query: (good to know Grok is not a doctor...) Why does my 2003 Mack ai350 with an Allison hd4560 trigger blink code 4-1 when the the truck is in gear and not moving while the engine is running the PTO at 900 rpms? Grok is not a doctor; please consult a medical professional. Don't share your Personally Identifiable Information. Blink code 4-1 on a Mack AI350 with an Allison HD4560 transmission generally indicates an issue with the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) - specifically, that the data from this sensor is erratic, intermittent, or incorrect. Here are some reasons why you might be seeing this code under the conditions you describe: VSS Signal Mismatch: When the truck is in gear but not moving, the VSS should ideally report zero speed. If the PTO (Power Take-Off) is engaged and the engine is running at 900 RPMs, there might be some mechanical or electrical interference causing the VSS to send a signal that the vehicle is moving or fluctuating in speed when it's actually stationary. This could be due to: Sensor failure or wear: Over time, VSS can degrade, leading to incorrect readings. Vibration or mechanical movement: The PTO operation might cause slight movements or vibrations in the transmission or driveshaft which could be misinterpreted by the VSS. Electrical Noise or Interference: The operation of the PTO might generate electrical noise or interference which could affect the VSS signal. Electrical components near the VSS, like wiring harnesses or other sensors, might be causing this interference, especially when the PTO is operational at high RPMs. Wiring Issues: Check for any loose connections, corroded terminals, or damaged wiring between the VSS and the ECM (Engine Control Module) or the transmission control module. The vibration from the PTO could exacerbate any existing wiring issues. Incorrect Sensor Type or Calibration: If the VSS or any component of the speed sensor system was replaced with an incorrect type or not calibrated properly, this could lead to erratic readings. Transmission or Driveline Issues: Although less common, there could be issues within the transmission or driveline that are mechanically causing the sensor to read movement when there is none. This would be more complex and might involve internal transmission components or bearings. Troubleshooting Steps: Inspect the VSS: Check for physical damage, corrosion, or loose connections. Ensure it's the correct part for your truck and transmission combination. Check Wiring: Look for any signs of wear or damage, especially near areas where movement or vibration could cause issues. Use a multimeter to check for continuity and proper signal when the truck is in the described condition. Software or Calibration: If possible, check if the ECM or transmission control module software is up to date. Sometimes, recalibrating or resetting the sensor through diagnostic tools can resolve erratic readings. Run Diagnostics: Use a Mack diagnostic tool or consult the service manual for specific diagnostic procedures related to code 4-1. This might involve checking sensor outputs under controlled conditions or logging data to see exactly when and how the sensor is giving erroneous readings. Mechanical Inspection: If the above steps don't resolve the issue, consider a mechanical check of the transmission and driveline components, especially if the truck has high mileage or has undergone previous repairs. Remember, for accurate diagnosis, referring to the exact service manual for your truck's year, make, and model is crucial, as diagnostics can vary based on specific vehicle configurations. VSS sensor types Allison transmission codes more troubleshooting steps

What engine codes do you have? As Joey said, cruise off, press the accel/decel rocker down and then count the 2 digit code. Repeat this until you have pulled all codes out. (All codes are pulled when it starts repeating itself). You could have some legitimate issues. Cracked charge air cooler, busted springs on EUP fuel injection pumps, etc. Also what is the engine model? AI-300? AI-350? AMI-300? You don't have the worst engine, the AC-series is the worst. The Granite has an AI-series engine. You can delete the EGR on the AI engines. AC you're F'd. The thread I posted discusses the modifications to delete the AI's EGR. The AMI engines are Maxidyne fuel mapped AI engines. Wide powerband. If yours is gutless below 1300 rpms then chances are you don't have an AMI. If this were my truck the first thing I would do is put a pyrometer and a boost gauge on. Biggest indicators of performance health on your truck. If EGR is too hot and boost is low then you have air intake system issues.

Read this thread in its entirety. It explains what you are driving.

Not sure what the date was on this quote, but if it was in the last week or so then he's right! The Congress elected in November was sworn in on January 3rd! So Biden is effectively hamstrung, all he can do now is executive orders, which Trump can undo on day 1 with an executive order.

Some consideration should be given for circuit breaker protection since whatever circuit you're back feeding into would now be protected by the breaker on the generator, and I'd imagine the rest of the back feed into the house has to go through the panel breaker. I've never had to use my dad's setup, so idk if you need to shut off the Main Breaker so you aren't bleeding power out to your neighbors, lol...

My dad made an extension cord with 2 male ends. Portable gas powered generator you can plug it into your house and back feed power in to run your heat and your fridge and other minimal draw items.

MR's have a massive radiator, he won't have cooling issues. Also he's going to be hogging through fields at low speed high rpm. I think there's a 370A hp rating for the automatics. Not sure the auto can hold 400hp. Sounds like you have an early ETECH, I know on the AI Tech's there's an AMI-370, that's probably the best. It's a 370 hp maxidyne fuel map instead of a 400. Maxidynes have a nice wide powerband.

I bet it's leaking on the water manifold hose (left side). There's a hose that bridges the manifold from one head to the manifold on the other head. It can be hard to keep this tight. Likely in the colder temps the metal is shrinking. One of our trucks has done this. No leaks in the summer, then minor weeping in the winter.

At some point you gotta just get out the sawzall and just make it a convertible...

My siblings and I grew up taking turns riding in the truck every fall with my dad to go get coal from South Tamaqua Coal Pockets (I think that was the business name) on Rte 309. Now I own the house I grew up in and my kids get to rotate through every fall to the same plant, but now it's "Keystone Anthracite". It's a lot more work to burn coal, but it's a lot cheaper than oil and you can't ignore the memories and hard work the kids will grow up knowing.

South Tamaqua is where I buy my coal every fall.

Would be strange, the granite cab is much wider than the R cab.

It's Friday afternoon and someone's got a hot date!

Valva is fine, it's 60 lbs per square inch. The size of the orifice is tiny, so you need a fraction of 60 lbs to force fuel through it.

What's your voltage when cranking? EECU shuts off at 9.5 volts. Weak batteries will drop that low when cranking. The ether gets it rolling, letting you ease off starter motor, redirecting voltage to the EECU. Check your battery voltage.

If I put in a new heater I could probably get away with 750 gallons of oil for the year, but I lose the opportunity to harden my kids a little bit and provide them with experiences few other kids get.

My house (1790's stone farmhouse) has a Buderus boiler my dad put in in the 1980's that has 2 sets of doors, one for oil and one for coal. It burns about 1,500 gallons a year to run on oil, or I can get away with about 250 gallons for the off-season and 6 tons of coal for the heating season. The coal is a lot of work, but as a dad of little kids I'm of the opinion that growing up with some more labor intensive chores and maintenance is healthier than the cushy alternative of no responsibilities til they're 30.

I burn coal too, I believe Keystone Anthracite loaded out of South Tamaqua was $325/ton for chestnut, but I pick it up myself.

I had my inner tire on the right blow the mudflap off the left side of my truck once. A couple times I've had tires on the right lose their cap and rip the bottom few rungs off a steel ladder that goes up the backside of the truck. The damage a tire will do really depends on the type of failure.

If you're deadset on keeping that truck then look for a donor parts truck with good rails. For what it's worth, U models use the same frame rails. We've welded the rails on our R686ST. Ours are sleeved on the outside, just with a bolt on section. You're supposed to use 110,000 lb welding rods according to the Mack frame repair book, not 60/70k's as referenced by others.

All wheel drive R models are designated RM600, all wheel drive DM models are designated DMM600 etc. They're more common in Canada I believe. Can't speak to who made the front axles.

This style camelback captivates the outside of the frames, lighter camelbacks captivate the inside of the frame rails. So you'll have to disassemble the cross member to allow the rails to squeeze in away from those massive ears that the frame bolts to.

On this setup I believe the crossmember inside the tandem unbolts I have a truck with this setup, but I've never pulled it apart. Trunnion bar underneath has bolt on caps underneath, so depending on what you're trying to accomplish you probably have a few options. You could unbolts the trunnion bar caps and lift the truck off the suspension/tears. Whatever you're thinking it requires lots of room and big toys to get this job done, everything is heavy!!!