JoeH

If I read @mechohaulic right, it's not supposed to ground at all. One wire is 12v "hot" coming in, then it goes through the sending unit where the resistance changes based on fuel level, which drops voltage down. The other wire goes back to the gauge with "weakened" voltage, then the circuit grounds *after the gauge*.

38's are typically 11r22.5 tires on 5 spoke hubs. 44's and 58's are on 6 spoke hubs IIRC, which are holding 11r24.5 tires.

I'll snap a picture of my cylinder fittings if I remember today.

Is truck parked outside in the cold or inside in the heat? Are you trying to tilt cab in sub freezing temps? You could have water/ice acting as a check valve flowing back and forth. You could also have the lines hooked up backwards/in the wrong ports.

Scrap yards won't take tanks. Once they're cut open they aren't tanks. But they do need to drain so they can't hold rain water/other residual liquids. So a few holes in the underside should do the trick just fine.

Propane tanks you depressurize, pull the valves off, fill with water to displace any potential gas, drain, cut em up with your choice of tools. These tanks you have, depending how much residue they have, need to be cleaned out and torched. You just need to make it not a "tank" anymore. So cut a large section (like the whole top of the tank) out of the top and drop it inside the tank. Then the whole thing can get carried to the junk yard. They should have a belly valve that is either cable or air opened/spring close, good way to drain any liquids out. It could very well be water condensation that's accumulated in the tank from years of sitting. I have a 4000 gallon tanker on my property that took on water from sitting.

Wire it up black to ground, red to sending unit and see what happens.

Typically an rd690"S" would be 44k rear camelback. An "SX" would be 58k or higher. "ST" would be either 34k or usually 38k. If this was a concrete mixer then yes I expect it's just a solid beam version of the Mack Camelback.

It's set reasonably well. The muffler sustained a dent, and the chrome stack is sitting a little cocked on the muffler.

Torque arms done, doors done. I think we just have to do plastic fenders on the pass side and swap out bolts on the mixer body mounts, then the truck is ready for the mixer.

Glad it wasn't an ECU/software issue. "Sorry, bum software from 1st ECU got transferred to new ECU, now we have to order another ECU and try something else!" I'd have been off my rocker.

I'm in Joey Mack's territory, I just bought a sprinter van for the growing family. I'll be back in the shop on Friday, maybe I'll get some more pictures then...

In the grand scheme of things the exhaust bracket was pretty low on the list, but yes it needed to be done, lol. Nothing bolts to that stand other than muffler, plastic fender piece, and the cab jack pump. Mack wanted about $650 for the stand, but I think we got it straight enough...

Yea, the exhaust stand on the cutoff was about rotted through, so that was unusable. We parked our crane behind this truck and used it as a "Porta-power" to push the exhaust stand straight!(ish, lol)

That will be me.

Doors and wiper motors installed, bumper on, grill emblem on. Still need to assemble passenger windows and driver door vent.

Also took the time to tighten the 2 loose bolt inside the rear axle. I have all new torque arms ready to go on, they're a pain to do when the body is on.

New bumper is in a box on pallet, needs an emblem on the grill, wiper motors installed, and doors reassembled and installed. And passenger side fender plastics. I also bought a combo pyro/boost gauge that I'll need to wire up to make sure this truck is putting power to the wheels.

Great trucks; you're going to want to fix this intake tube though, keep rain from getting in and ruining a nice truck. Also its letting unfiltered air in. This radiator has the reservoir in the top, you should just barely be able to touch it with your fingers. You can spot coolant leaks by looking for salt trails, common leak spots are the freeze plugs on the driver side, as well as the crossover hose (very short) between the front and rear head water manifolds, also on the driver side. Does seem strange that the oil is only on one side of the dipstick. Next time check the oil before starting the engine. I have an E7 that if I check it 5 minutes after shutting off it'll be a gallon low on oil, but if I check it first thing in the AM it's full.

My Mack dealer uses PAI parts for engines frequently.

It's gotta move along fast, the payment on the mixer for this truck is $2400/month. We're running one truck right now because we need the garage space to fix this thing. Spring is pretty much here, our season should be starting soon.

Doors and misc. parts primed painted and curing in the booth, garage set to 70°F for the night. I'll give the parts a couple days to cure and work on other tasks in the meantime.

Cab is on the truck, runs, everything is functional so far, new windshields. Painting doors, corner protectors and wiper motor plates tomorrow. The one steering tire has a small chunk missing from between the tread, and a bit of steel cord showing. The steer tires will definitely be getting replaced. Waiting on mounting hardware to replace bent brackets and questionable bolts to hold the mixer to the truck. All in all the project is going smoothly, just taking a long time.

Early ETECH engines put the engine computer on the passenger side of the engine, under the turbo. Later ones are on the driver side.