JoeH

Pull heat shields covering the EUPs. Warm up engine, loosen one wire screw on each EUP, one a time. (Don't remove screw, just loosen. They're not designed to come out). Remove wire, you'll get a spark, no big deal. Listen for an EUP that doesn't make a change in engine sound. This is how you do an injector cutout test on these engines. Not a bad idea to pull all the EUPs and inspect. Pull the EUP cam followers as well. My 2003 engine had 3 bad EUPs, 2 had broken springs, one failed electrical component. 2 of my cam followers were bad, almost lost the camshaft but caught it just before major damage was done.

If it's Mack Camelback then it likely has an "automatic" style inter-axle lock. As a wheel starts spinning the inter-axle lock on the front of the front driver will start engaging, giving a torque bias towards the axle that still has traction. If one wheel on each drive axle spins then you're stuck, unless you have the momentum to carry you through the slick spot. While Mack also made differential locks almost nobody ever ordered them as an option, so your chances of having differential locks is about 1/1,000,000. But I believe all Mack tandems and camelbacks have either automatic or air operated inter-axle locks.

Any fault codes? Does your lightning bolt work?

Loooong shot but does anyone have experience putting an electronic transmission on a mechanical engine? I have a 1988 RD690S with an EM6-300L and a 7 speed Mack trans. We're rebuilding a volumetric mixer for this truck, and I'm wondering if I could modify the truck to run an Allison HD4560p transmission. I have a cable shift HT740 which would be easy, but it only has a PTO on the top which is a horrible setup. Useless. Pros of auto trans: PTO isnt clutch dependent. Can put any idiot in it to drive. Cons: grafting the trans and engine to work together. From what I can figure so far, I'd need a flywheel/housing, Bell housing, etc, Throttle Position Sensor adapter, and a few other sensors to feed into the Transmission Control Module.

Just put spacers between the air tank brackets and the frame. That's what we did on our 95. Or you can cut a V out of the brackets, fold the tank out to close the V's and reweld.

My experience with E7 engines is fantastic longevity, poor torque. My experience with E6 engines (ENDT676 more specifically) is fantastic torque and power. I had a 2001 ETECH 400 in 2015 and it was a dog, but it got where it was going. 1995 E7-350 we currently have is pretty good, but it doesn't have the torque to pull through hills. Same as my 2003 AI-350. They get up hills, but they don't get to the top very fast. Reality is modern trucks have 20+ years of tech advancements and 2-3 extra liters of displacement. This engine won't match that.

Is anyone other than you driving the truck? If so don't do it. If it's just you, just go easy on the truck, and let us know. Watch your EGT's 1025 is max measured about 6" after the turbo. Joey is right though, this is only a 12 liter engine. 460 is the highest the factory tuned them. I know with the 11 liter E6 engines Mack tuned them right to the sweet spot of full power potential and still retain longevity. And those were 300-350hp. No reason to think Mack left their E7 engines with that much untapped power potential.

Hardest part of these trucks is getting the intake system apart and back together.

Your dead cylinder is gonna be a broken lifter, which wiped the lobe off the camshaft. Berry Cams I've heard can reweld/fix the lobe, no experience with them though. Alternatively you may just have a bent rod, but id expect the lifter. They have a hard carbide face that cracks, falls off and leaves a lip that slices the lobe off pretty quick. Fantastic engine. But this is the weak spot on them.

https://bucks.crimewatchpa.com/newbritaintwppd/34878/post/mcsap-detail-12 Local DOT stop around the corner from us. Pretty good haul for our local boys this last week!

I know the ETECH and ASET engine computers shut off if voltage drops below 9.5 volts. You have to watch for voltage during cranking. Not sure what your issue is though, you didn't state what problem you're having.

What year and model are you working on, and which engine?

I love Tom Homan. He has so much eloquence in his speech with how blunt he is.

Giving it a second read, first line is "unemployment claims". At 5? Doubtful... Could be an overly broad DOGE statement...

I'll give a certain benefit of the doubt regarding those under 5: severe disabilities? I suspect this DOGE post is overly broad, there's probably circumstances that could warrant sub 5 year olds receiving some form of some vague entitlement program within social security to offset some disability they were born with. I have a daughter (2 years old) on state insurance to cover county provided Early Intervention therapies. She got stuck during birth and has some oddities resulting. Just wrapped up 1.5 years of physical therapy, working on speech therapy now.

Now I want to put googly eyes on my trucks and see how long it takes people to notice

I have a Legacy seat in my RD688, it's nice. I'm 5'11. Initially had armrests, left one went immediately because it interfered with seatbelt. Right one lasted a few years, but it went too because I leaned on it enough times that it finally deformed enough to start flipping the 'lo lo' switch on my 8ll shifter when going from 1st to 2nd.

We put a block of wood on the ground next to the tire close to the tread on the sidewall, maybe 1/4" gap. Spin the wheel and loosen/tighten lug nuts accordingly. If you do them often enough you can get a pretty good feel for initial tightening. I tighten top center lug a bit, then bottom gently, then the upper side lug nuts. This'll start the wedges in pretty evenly, then you go tighten them more snugly and check. Usually I'm within 1/8th" runout doing this.

https://www.portrayalpress.com/product-p/tm 9-2815-207-35.htm Book for military Mack engines $50

If you have the book # maybe you can order it from Mack...

There's enough of a difference that you hurt your pinky if that wing window is open. Floor boards are different to accommodate different shifter positions, accelerator/brake pedals are different positions. Just a couple minor driver position differences, really. We have a 1980 DM686SX that is my reference, compared to a 1979 R686ST that we have as well. Same steering wheels, just that minor positional difference.

I bet it was a DM. The wing window sits notoriously close to the steering wheel, I know I clipped my pinky on ours a few times. Don't think I ever had that issue on our R models.

I won't ask you how you know that! 4th is the most I ever had opportunity to try 🤣🤣

The trans was 6 speeds forward, 5 speeds backwards. Left stick is gears 1-5, right stick direct low reverse, like you said. Low just sets all the gears down one notch. 2nd becomes equivalent of 1st, 3rd equivalent to 2nd, etc. Its just to give you a crawler gear. You only use low range for 1st gear when you need to crawl. Now the 5 speeds reverse... Fantastic feature. You can put it in 3rd reverse and cruise over soft ground before the ground even knows you're on it. Engine is probably a 283hp, with the engine mounted charge air cooler.

Claimed by @PMC, if anyone wants 2nd in line in case he falls through just let me know.