JoeH

You're guessing the rest needs to be replaced? Why? What's broken? Trunnion bar? Trunnion cross member between the frames? Trunnion tower? Not enough info! Sounds like we might be telling you to do more than you replay need to!

Engine codes. Make sure the lightning bolt comes on with the key and goes out promptly. There's a write up on here to turn that motor into a really good engine, it's currently set up with exhaust restriction to force it to return some of its exhaust. Watch for double frame rust jacking, cracks in the frame, etc. Replacing frame rails is 25-30k. Unless you can do it yourself, then you'll be looking closer to 15k for the rails.

Usually radios have a "pairing mode" you have to put it in while you hunt for the radio in your phone bluetootg list. After that they should Auto connect

On top of that, they put the idiot on your truck and have the experienced guy doing piece work like tires because the idiot will log more shop hours on your truck and the experienced guy can do tires faster. No offense to the dealer mechanics on here, you're a great asset to the rest of us.

I'd probably start the truck in lowest gear, rev it up and with clutch pedal in as far as it'll go keep brake pressure on. Just gotta create more friction with the brakes than you have with the clutch.

Get a number from Autocar and then tell the Mack salesman the number and specs and see if he actually wants to sell you a truck or if he's wasting your time. Best thing to do is get a salesman to think you're angry with him for wasting your time. Guy (Mike) I bought my used pickup from did that for his wife's car. He told the salesman what they could afford per month, then the salesman took them around the lot for a while trying to upsell them. Finally, Mike chastised the salesman pretty well for wasting his time: he had said at the outset what he could afford, and the salesman kept showing him cars he "couldn't" afford, so Mike got himself a good deal. (May have been a few customers around to "eavesdrop" on the chastisement. Nothing like that to get a salesman to capitulate!)

I've seen a few anthems around the Bucks County PA area. Single axle box trucks, tractors, etc. Not a terrible looking truck, haven't spent much time looking at them to decide if I like them. Mack is a day late and a dollar short on 9mpg trucks, IMO. What you save on fuel you spend on injector cups because I'm sure they still haven't reengineered that...

Working hard or hardly working? Looks like this truck is going to a beach house for vacation on the bay! Or it's fantasizing about some Evel Knievel stunts.

With the wheels off the ground my 1973 Mack will turn effortless, and it has no power steering!!! The trucks weight on your tire contact patch is the only thing that generates resistance to turning the wheel. Unless you've broken the steering box, in which you'd likely feel a clunking when turning the wheel.

What'd shock me is if it had fusible links. Ran into those on a junker PoS 89 f250 gasser I bought, never could get the truck to run right.

Do something!

Just check every fuse and replace any that are blown.

Internal o ring seal in the slave cylinder? Pressure leaks through from pressure side to vented side, thus your leak?

I think I know the bolts you need, we bought a few from Mack a few years ago for our Jacobs brake on one of our ebdt676 motors. I think we got the last 3 available, rofl! They were $80 each!!! Ripoff. We bought em and took a few out of our spare motor, too.

A lot of guys use PAI for older stuff here, I'll bet they're probably good. Is PAI cheaper?

That is madness. How is it the prisons financial responsibility to finish what this idiot started?? If the person can use the bathroom then just lock em up! If they didn't want to get locked up with a bunch of other criminals then they shouldn't have done whatever they did!

You "think" fuel shutoff is in the right position, try it in the "other" position and see what happens. Looks like a weird setup with that chain hanging on the shutoff lever....

So I'm guessing it's your secondary filter that was loaded up? Check your fuel tank, see what is inside it. Might have to drain it to get a better idea. Looking at the flow chart if the secondary filter got loaded from something failing the supply pump is the only reasonable culprit, unless fuel lines go into the block after primary and before secondary filter, which would be kinda dumb. With new filters does the truck have it's power back? Maybe the metal came with the filter.... Hate to throw it out the as an idea but........ Anything's possible?

Some union boy got upset that you were working so he dumped metal shavings in your fuel. Kidding, but it wouldn't be the first time. My cousin got metal shavings in the engine oil of all his equipment on a job once. Courtesy of union pricks. And they wonder why the rest of us don't like them, and want nothing to do with them.

Mine works better if I use it a lot, especially when I first start out in the morning before the engine is up to temperature. It was intermittent from 1500 up, now I have both heads working up to 1850 rpms. All I've done is replace the thermostat, it had a piece of rubber gasket missing so it would not close all the way. If left to idle long enough the engine temp would drop to around 100-120. Now it stays steady at 180.

685 is the 237hp motor 686 is the 285 hp maxidyne 688 is a non maxidyne e7 690 is the em6/em7 maxidyne engine On older trucks R is single frame and RD is double frame. Newer truck, guessing around late '80s, RD is all R models, single and double. Suffixes of ST, S, SX will tell you what suspension is on the rear, which will tell you single or double frame. ST is 38k Camelback, and will be a single frame tandem tractor. S is 44k Camelback, and the truck will be a double frame. SX is 55-58k or even heavier Camelback, and will likely be an even heavier double frame than a truck with suffix S. Example. My 1980 dm686sx has the 285 maxidyne endt676 engine, two 3/8th inch frame rails, and 55k rear camelback suspension. 20k front axle too.

Unfamiliar with that setup too! Lol. Only worked on an R686st, a dm686sx, an rd688s and an rd690s. That's about the extent of my truck knowledge, we have a couple 70's Mack yard trucks with 237's.

Or turn the wheel to change orientation of that bolt. But it's gotta come out. Not familiar with the truck setup, but I'd have that wheel off for working room too.

Yeah bolts gotta come out. Torch the head off and get a new bolt or just take the shock off. Also, drive a chisel into the split to open it up while you put the puller on it. Heat is your friend here also. And penetrating oil. And a BF hammer.