JoeH

I've driven a propane powered propane delivery truck, while the novelty of it was fun it just wasn't a diesel. Had to be careful about over revving. Not like a diesel where you mash it to the gov. Strange to make the transition in a truck from diesel to propane or CNG for that reason. No thanks on CNG. No thanks on batteries either - I like my fossil fuels. I'm an addict I suppose...

It's a glider. The endt tip turbine motor wasn't used anymore in 88, they had gone to the E6 4valve. Forgot about the dynatard!

endtB? What's the B stand for? I know DT is diesel, turbo, but what's the B?

I haven't heard anything good about the MP series engines. I'm gonna stick to e7's for the next 20 or 30 years til they get their act together. Or I'll go Cummins.

Yea the original maxidynes made torque from 1200 to the gov at 2100. For the EM6 they dumbed the gov down to around 1750? but the powerband kicks in lower too, around 1050 or 1100. I think they did it for fuel economy and driver fatigue. Nothing like screaming along at 62 mph and 2100rpms for hours, but they'll do it all day long. My EM6-300L we bought in January says gov is at 1750? but not to exceed 2300 rpms. We haven't finished the truck body yet so it's just sitting, I have no hard experience with the EM6 yet. The old endt676 maxidynes were gov'd at 2100, but you could go towards 2300 according to the visor for you shifts, but I never liked that nor needed to. The EM6 uses the same block as the endt676.

My first 6 years driving were on a maxidyne 285hp with 5 gears, top speed of 62 mph. The tall jumps are what make the maxidyne excel. Mine had a Jake brake, which makes a huge difference for shifting. Up until these new automatic transmissions, I could outpull most trucks on the road. You are making 90%+ torque from 11-1200 rpms up. You don't need more gears, because you're always in you're powerband. The T310M maxitorque gears look like they match an 8LL pretty close, with the added benefit of having 6 (yes, six) reverse gears. You can shift through all 6 gears backing up. Mack transmissions have 3 countershafts which make them near bulletproof. Eaton's have 2. I haven't driven an em7, but I have a lot of seat time driving concrete trucks with maxidynes and maxitorques.

My 8LL on my e7-350 shifts like a POS once in a while. Sometimes when you come outa 6th gear to hit 7th the shifter goes to the neutral zone, but the trans stays in 6th for a sec. Does it in 2nd too. It's held up, but I'd rather a maxitorque behind a maxidyne. Started on a 2 stick maxitorque, its got 560k miles of local beating and my brothers and I all learned on it and it still shifts smooth as ever, and the motor still pulls like a Mack. The 8LL has 253k miles on it. Long way to go to catch up to that 2 stick for wear.

And you have to have a good free flowing exhaust, you'd be putting a lot of heat out. My old endt676 maxidyne engines are good for 1,125 degrees on the pyro, but my E7 is only good for 1,025 degrees.

Are you talking about mechanical or electronic e7's? I love the idea of an em7 -350 mechanical, but I think maxidynes peak at 300 hp. I think it's just about all in the fuel pump. For the most part, at least on mechanicals, the injectors will put as much fuel in as the injection pump tells them to. But I think it's also important to have a lot of oil pressure so you aren't hurting crank and rod bearings by lugging it. It's critical to have a good film of oil as the the engine is making 1000-1200 ft lbs of torque at 1000rpms. That's only 350 rpms off idle. Would be great to get an em7-300 fuel pump and have it turned up closer to 350. You'd likely need to upgrade the transmission too. And personally I'd go Maxitorque trans. The T310-M might be a great pairing with a maxidyne em7, you'd always be in your power band with room to spare.

They're good, only fault is the lifter tappets. Carbide face cracks off and the camshaft loses a lobe. Apart from that, yeah the endt676 can't be beat. Just picked up our first E6 in January, still rebuilding the truck body for it so we won't know how good of an engine it is til next year. Our E7 is great so far.

You don't HAVE to, but it makes life harder if you don't. A lot less pumping on a hand pump if they're prefilled. Pump until you hear fuel splashing back in the tank via the return line. Then floor it and crank it til it's running. Ease off the throttle as it smooths out and can idle on its own.

My only worry is what does 2024 look like? Republicans don't have a leg to stand on without Trump. Most legit business men who would make great president's won't run because they want to be business men not politicians! Trump has done everything he's wanted to do in life, now he wants to MAGA and he's doing a hell of a job. No Republican could stand in the ring as long as he has without being knocked down once.

They're gonna get trainwrecked by the voters this next election. They're doing a lot of posturing, they really are out of touch. As a 29 year old who started working after high school I'm excited to be working in a booming economy for the first time in my career. MAGA!

Just gotta make those kids pay for their own college of they want to go. But even that may not fly any longer if one of these dumbocrats gets into office and pays off all college debt. Wtf? MAPA!

You thief you! Endt675 or endt676? Great buy.

The 01 etech 400 I had had to crank longer than usual to start because it had a camshaft sensor fault code

That will probably vibrate real bad.

Look up how to pull etech blink codes on here. I've explained it a half dozen times and don't feel like typing it again. When you turn the key on the check engine light (lightning bolt) better come on briefly then go out. That means A. The bulb hasnt been pulled out to hide codes and B. The engine has no active fault codes. 600 miles is a bit far to go and not buy a truck. Some guys here say the etech is the last great Mack engine before Volvo really screwed the pooch.

You left 500k out of the first post! That's a fair amount of weight. I'd still stick with the 15w40 for most of the year. Pulling those weights I'd invest in a bigger oil cooler, not a different oil. Oils break down when they get too hot. For winter time I'd consider finding a way to insulate the oil pan if you have trouble getting the oil to temp. That's my basic recommendation, temperature regulation. But I don't heavy haul, I just run straight trucks at 73,280.

Radnor is a good 40 minutes away.

When buying used someone typically doesn't want to modify the truck any more than they have to. Knowing most air ride is useless off-road just tells him what trucks to ignore during his search

Radiator is keeping the engine to 180*. Even if it's 100 out that's still much cooler than the engine and oil temp. Personally I'd just stick to 15w40. Just keep your pyro from getting too hot.

Your local Mack dealer sells them. They just might not be smart enough to look them up.

Hours on the tachometer? I had an 01 etech 400 for a year or two, I loved the truck. Super easy to diagnose engine codes via blink code, no emissions crap like def and egr. My mechanical e7-350 has 19,000 hours and 253k miles, still runs like a champ, no idea how much longer I'll get out of the injection pump and injectors. Does this truck you're looking at have any egr emissions crap?

(concrete delivery driver, ranting about DIY engineers) I've found that with engineers they usually think they know everything, but when push comes to shove they tend to be controlling of those of us who know how to do our jobs, which slows me down from getting their delivery done so I can keep my schedule. Concrete in particular you just have to jump in and get it done. It's labor intensive, and there's no way around that sometimes. But that radiator looks great! Dan has talent! If he welded it himself I'm doubly impressed, engineering theory is one thing, but the skill to make it happen requires a different talent. Haven't met many engineers with both.