JoeH

Not sure how/why your wiring got cooked by the exhaust. Exhaust should be 4 inch diameter from turbo to exhaust tip. Exhaust elbows down off the turbo, goes between flywheel housing and the frame; should be a clamp that bolts the exhaust to a machined hole on the flywheel housing; exhaust then goes along underneath the frame, til it hooks up to a goofy looking muffler behind the passenger fuel tank, muffler outlet is 4" diameter straight out the top. Any air lines/wires in the frame rails should have been clamped to the inside of the frame, with the exception of a copper tube that comes off the air compressor and is clamped to the transmission before it changes over to a braided stainless steel hose going to the wet tank.

This truck is a 97 also. It's up to 220k miles, original trans. Lots of towing and plowing. Left fender fit well, next I'm putting the left door on before doing g the rocker and cab corner. Gotta do it all just right to get it all to blend together. My panels came from LMC truck, which gets them from Taiwan. So far their metal seems good, but I bought plastic parts from them once. Never again. It's brittle and really cheap, as low quality as anything I've ever seen.

This is what I just started in my other bay. Gotta finish it for snow season! It's getting new fenders, rockers, doors, cab corners, bed skins and I'll be sandblasting/painting the frame and axles too. It's treated me very well since I got it, now I'm just replacing rot so I can get another few years out of it. (It's a 12v)

I only work on mechanical engines. Any time I run into a no crank situation I check the relay in the dash that sends signal power to the starter relay. They're junk lately, I only seem to get a year or so out of them before I have issues with the internal contacts. Winds up leaving my gauges not getting power, and sometimes having to bump the key a half dozen times til it'll crank.

My differentials on my 1988 we just bought begs to differ.

Still have to repair a few minor cracks in the hood, sand down the air filter housing, then wipe it all down before it's time for primer! Good bye H&K Green hello Hartzel's White!

That is a letdown.

As the bus frame didn't stick out far enough for the front axle I'm going to bet on the bus being grafted to the hood. If I were to build that I'd start with the frame. Easier to graft the bus to a frame than the engine/trans/axle/steering to the bus. May have been a superliner frame that was stretched for the project. Could be new PGAdams rails or something, but I'm betting it's just a stretched truck frame.

After my first debacle doing my own AC I just pay the professionals to do it. Took me 2 days (not full work days, but I had to learn what I was doing) and $400+ in parts to do it myself the first time, then it cost me $700 a year later to have my local shop do it. AC is something I don't care to get good at bc I don't have the tools. Not worth a seized AC compressor at 2am in a snow storm when I could be making $85+/hour. Mine seized, clutch and all. So it wasn't like I could pull the relay to disengage the compressor clutch.

Looks almost like a bus front end.

Table of contents of the fuel system book. Pretty thorough.

My binders are tune up books, overhaul books, etc. Nice to have books gifted/handed through the generations. I wonder if my books will be relevant to my trucks in 18 years when my son starts driving.... I'll try and have at least something still here that they apply to. Even if it's just Camelback suspension.

My binders are brown 😎

My books go through 1986 or so, which is about when my dad bought our first Mack, (1979 R686ST) which we are still beating on today. He learned from a mechanic in his younger years don't try to remember specs. Look them up. Which is probably why he bought the binders. They cover everything from injection pumps to camelbacks. V8s, 2vh end673 to 4vh e6's. Frame repair, cab, oil and filter air cleaners, transmissions, bogies...

Back to my original post, it was the supply line my dad cracked on the pump and got nothing. Shut down lever has resistance, so we're looking at algea. We've had algea issues before in other equipment that's sat, I just misunderstood which line my dad cracked.

It's 4 studs that protrude out of the adapter that the pump mounts to.

Here is my Mack book. Robert Bosch is mentioned up front in every engine book I have in binder #1, both 2vh and 4vh engines. American Bosch is mentioned through 1983 and then in 1984 American Bosch became "United Technologies Diesel Systems". My engine books even have V8 info in them too. There's a sneak peek of binder #1 for you. And the casting number on the Robert Bosch adapter.

I think you'll note in the picture that the front of the pump actually is 4 bolts. But they use an adapter that uses a 3 bolt pattern to bolt to the block. You can just see one of the bosses on the pump side of the adapter. I can double check later to make sure I'm right, but I believe all endt pumps have an adapter section between them and the block.

I do believe this is a Robert Bosch mounted on a 1976 endt676 inside my retired 1980 DM686SX.

And this one.

No dice on a vintage truck rolling coal in black n white. But I found this!

Yes the vacuum sucks EVERYTHING out. Humidity, freon, oil... It puts a vacuum on the system for a half hour or something. Then the tech switches it over to fill it up. When I had my car AC fixed 2 years ago the compressor was worn out, wasn't effective at moving the freon, even though it had a full charge.

I've got three 2 valve endt676 engines, two have one brand and the third has the other brand. My crane has an endt675, not sure if it has same pump as the U model, doesn't make a difference to me so long as they start and do what I tell them!

Is this both American and Robert Bosch pumps?

Need it for yard work this week.