JoeH

Same block as the older endt676 engines and the E6 motors. (Might b minor block changes over the years)

Was in my local paint store interested in a certain color; he looked it up and was shocked it had only 1 "variant". A single color can have 20+ "variants", which are basically batches. You can put 2 "identical" colored cars next to each other and they'll look completely different. Important to be aware of when you're trying to color match and only paint a couple repairs instead of the whole rig.

Usually editors have a rotation option.

Lots of runs on the back of the cab, and the roof didn't get sanded down well enough so I expect to see some paint flaking on the roof at some point, but it is a work truck so it just needs to look nice driving by and run like a Mack.

Just took a peak at the visor in my 1988, visor says "operating range is 1020 to 1750 rpms, don't exceed 2300 rpms." The E6 motor uses the same block as the older endt676 series, which wound out to 2100 rpms, and cautioned at 2300. 2300 is likely when valves start floating, i.e. they don't have time to fully close between cycles. Pushrods get dislodged and bent... I would guess you could be safe setting the governor closer to 2100, but I would probably leave it. Mack Factory settings yielded impressive durability. You can't beat the up time on these older Mack's. They never quit. You ruin one of these and you'll have to buy a new truck that may spend 25% of its life at the dealer, plus cost you every dime the truck earns and then some.

I think flywheel housings and bellhousings tend to be fairly standardized. I.e. if you can put an 8ll on a Mack and a Cat, there's probably a bellhousing/flywheel housing combination that'll match a Mack 10 speed to the Cat.

Primer on the cab, paint going on in an hour. Hood still needs some crack repairs, it'll get done later.

A dipped tank yielding red I've heard is about $6-7k fine.

That's a gorgeous rig.

New frame rails are 25k+ or so unless you're mechanically inclined and can do it yourself.

It'll probably have a right side computer, which people say you have to be very careful with. Its close to the frame and if the engine torques too much from worn out engine mount bushings all it takes is a tiny dent in the housing and the ECU is shot. Personally I like the 2001 etech engines, but I only had limited experience owning one for a year or so.

We just bought a 1988 RD690S with an EM6-300L. The M stands for maxidyne, which has a massive powerband, and the L stands for Low RPM. Governor kicks in at 1750 rpms. Is the low rpm scenario a new phenomenon or have the trucks always been this way? It would help us to know what the engine model is. Like my EM6-300L I referenced. Maxidynes make 90%+ torque through the whole powerband, while the older ones used to wind out to 2100 rpms they started dialing the gov back in the 80's, but the powerband kicks in at a lower rpm too.

By allergy do you mean algae? There's a fungicide fuel treatment you can use. Kills it, but nothing's going to dissolve it. Pretreat fuel with it when you fill a truck up.

Great find. I assume you had it towed out? I assume it's not running yet.

Reminds me of this. I think this has gotta be "fly over" country?... I wish I had this kind of time on my hands....

Nah once the driver gets sea sick he just cuts the wheel, flips the truck over and climbs out the up door!

Heads up algae grows in diesel, or at least in the new diesel, so you may want to make liberal use of the fuel tank drain and flush the tank out real well. They make a fungicide additive that kills the algae but it doesn't dissolve it. It'll clog things up pretty good. Flush tank, change fuel filters, put some fresh fuel in it and pump new fuel through the system via the (hopefully equipped, but if not it's easy to install) fuel hand primer pump. You'll want to prefill the new fuel filters, and make sure you lubricate the fuel filter orings. And make sure old oring comes off. Never know with a 30 year old sitter.... (2 fuel filters)

There's enough mud on that steering tire for 30 years sitting, but that cab looks rust free. Dirt floor barn find? There is no visible rust, must have come from a no humidity state...

I would guess just the fuel pump. Maybe the turbo. Maybe the camshaft too if the maxidynes use different valve durations. Personally I would want higher oil pressure. My 79 maxidyne makes 60 psi at idle, 90+ for the powerband. Higher oil pressure helps ensure the crank bearings have a good film they're floating in so the bearing surfaces can't contact. You really need it IMHO when you're pulling with 90%+ of your peak torque at 1000 rpms. Look through used truck ads for a truck with an em7 and run the VIN through your dealer to see what camshaft/turbo part numbers are used. See if it compares to yours.

No gauge tells me your accessory relay is shot, which sometimes coincides with no cranking.

Sorry to hear about his passing. Location? Someone here may take enough interest in it to swing by and have a look!

Also you can boil a tstat to make sure it isn't faulty.

I would take it apart and correct it.

Not sure what the oil sensor should read for voltage, replace anyway? I think oil, low water level, and high water temp are shutdown triggers. Cover your bases and replace all 3?