JoeH

Does a mechanical 1995 e7-350 fall under the same guidelines? One head always works, the other head works 80% of the time. Usually cuts out after pulling hard. Typically works again after going easy on the motor for a bit. 19,000+ hours on the motor.

That cowhide is beautiful.

I'd say about 3:00 in the afternoon?

I went through the headache a few years ago in PA. Most states now require a usdot number, regardless of inter or intra. It's a way of tracking violations. If you get pulled over and have a violation put against your usdot number but a state is using a state dot number then the violation won't show up in both systems, just the system the violation was put against. By using the universal federal system they do away with companies having multiple operating numbers and hiding violations.

As an engine tips forward or backward the oil begins to contact the connecting rods, which can create a must from the splashing. Or oil is pooling in the heads due to the angle and not draining. Motion of the rockers and valves could be throwing oil at the breather tube.

Wow. That's an oldie! What year did the R's and DM's come out? That's gotta be close!

RD688S. Mines a concrete truck. Used to be a dump truck though. Yours it'll be hard to predict how much use the engine has unless it has a ReMack tag on the engine indicating when it was rebuilt. It could have been bought used to replace a blown motor. No telling how much use it had before it was dropped into your truck.

Nice interior; looks like you need a tachometer sensor. And you have a 8LL transmission. Nice trans, mine has one too, but mines a POS in my opinion. Mine shifts nice most of the time, but once in a while it hangs up in gear and ruins my upshift. Mine hasnt had AC since we bought it 12 years ago. I'm guessing its a completely mechanical engine because it's a 91 truck with a 96 engine. Hard to retrofit an ecu.

Nice looking truck. How many hours on the clock? My 95 e7-350 has over 19,100 hours. Hasn't needed much. Watch your pyrometer when pulling hills, my e7-350 doesn't want to be taken over 1025 degrees, but it'll easily do 1150. Gotta be careful to not over heat the heads. You'll wish for more hp sometimes, but that motor will keep you on the road, not in the shop. And at the end of the day that's good on your bottom line.

It'll pull fine til it hits a point where the engine is consuming more fuel than can pass through the filters.

Not a very clear description of the boost drop. You probably have clogged fuel filters. They typically act like a governor slowly lowering the RPM that the boost cuts out at.

Same block as the older endt676 engines and the E6 motors. (Might b minor block changes over the years)

Was in my local paint store interested in a certain color; he looked it up and was shocked it had only 1 "variant". A single color can have 20+ "variants", which are basically batches. You can put 2 "identical" colored cars next to each other and they'll look completely different. Important to be aware of when you're trying to color match and only paint a couple repairs instead of the whole rig.

Usually editors have a rotation option.

Lots of runs on the back of the cab, and the roof didn't get sanded down well enough so I expect to see some paint flaking on the roof at some point, but it is a work truck so it just needs to look nice driving by and run like a Mack.

Just took a peak at the visor in my 1988, visor says "operating range is 1020 to 1750 rpms, don't exceed 2300 rpms." The E6 motor uses the same block as the older endt676 series, which wound out to 2100 rpms, and cautioned at 2300. 2300 is likely when valves start floating, i.e. they don't have time to fully close between cycles. Pushrods get dislodged and bent... I would guess you could be safe setting the governor closer to 2100, but I would probably leave it. Mack Factory settings yielded impressive durability. You can't beat the up time on these older Mack's. They never quit. You ruin one of these and you'll have to buy a new truck that may spend 25% of its life at the dealer, plus cost you every dime the truck earns and then some.

I think flywheel housings and bellhousings tend to be fairly standardized. I.e. if you can put an 8ll on a Mack and a Cat, there's probably a bellhousing/flywheel housing combination that'll match a Mack 10 speed to the Cat.

Primer on the cab, paint going on in an hour. Hood still needs some crack repairs, it'll get done later.

A dipped tank yielding red I've heard is about $6-7k fine.

That's a gorgeous rig.

New frame rails are 25k+ or so unless you're mechanically inclined and can do it yourself.

It'll probably have a right side computer, which people say you have to be very careful with. Its close to the frame and if the engine torques too much from worn out engine mount bushings all it takes is a tiny dent in the housing and the ECU is shot. Personally I like the 2001 etech engines, but I only had limited experience owning one for a year or so.

We just bought a 1988 RD690S with an EM6-300L. The M stands for maxidyne, which has a massive powerband, and the L stands for Low RPM. Governor kicks in at 1750 rpms. Is the low rpm scenario a new phenomenon or have the trucks always been this way? It would help us to know what the engine model is. Like my EM6-300L I referenced. Maxidynes make 90%+ torque through the whole powerband, while the older ones used to wind out to 2100 rpms they started dialing the gov back in the 80's, but the powerband kicks in at a lower rpm too.

By allergy do you mean algae? There's a fungicide fuel treatment you can use. Kills it, but nothing's going to dissolve it. Pretreat fuel with it when you fill a truck up.