Torque for Dayton rims

[skydawg]

I`m seeing from 150 to 250 ft lbs for the wedges,and some saying not to bother with a torque wrench at all,since there are inconsistencies,eg,thread condition,rust,that vary from hub to hub.Would 200 ft lb be a good number? I`ll be swapping 6 tube rims and tires tomorrow for tubeless.I know to deflate the old tires before loosening any lugs,but this is first time territory for me.Thanks.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[mrsmackpaul]

Never heard of deflating tyres before loosening nuts

My take on these and still use them everyday, Swishman might be along shortly 

100 - 150 is plenty, to much torque and all you do is squash the spacer, strip nuts and bust studs, there isn't any need for these stupid figures and all the BS that goes along with the key board warriors

All drama and rubbish spoken and the key board warriors claiming they have seen people killed and mamed and so on is lies

Use common sense, do them up tight with the wrench provided, make sure they run true, if you cant pull them in true with the nuts then back them off and start again

Only nip them up by hand until they are within 1/4 inch of true on the tyre

Then do them up tight, check within a few mile, then a few mile after that, make sure they are tight

Then after 30 mile amd they should be right until the next flat or tyre change

Skip all the drama and lies from keyboard warriors, up until 15 or 20 years ago thats pretty much all any truck had in Australia except for European trucks and even a lot of those had spoke conversions when new 

 

Paul

[skydawg]

Thanks,Paul,I was told that split rims could hurt you,and deflating the tire removed any danger.

[mrsmackpaul]

First things first, theres a big difference between split rims and dayton or spoked hubs

The rims the outside piece, even if they are split types of rims you would have more chance of winning the lotto than anything happening while dropping the rim off 

Key board warriors have done so much damage with all their drama and carry on 

You probably have chance of dropping it on your foot or the truck slipping of the jack or stands 

They are no were near as dangerous as people make out are used the world over even today 

 

Paul  

[Hayseed]

6 hours ago, skydawg said:

Thanks,Paul,I was told that split rims could hurt you,and deflating the tire removed any danger.

 

Speaking as someone who ahs fitted Hundreds (If Not Thousands) of these Rims.....

I fail to see how..!!

 

Getting back to your Original Question Re the Torque.. I'm with Paul 100-150 is Plenty..

But I only ever use a Torque Wrench on 10 Stud Wheels.. !!

 

EDIT: One thing I will stress though is ; Loosen But Don't remove the Nuts on the Clamps/Dogs & wack 'em with a Hammer to Loosen the Dogs then remove the Nuts otherwise you may end up wearing dog/Clamp in the face..!!

[Dirtymilkman]

Why were the Daytons so popular in Australia? 

[Freightrain]

4 hours ago, Hayseed said:

 

EDIT: One thing I will stress though is ; Loosen But Don't remove the Nuts on the Clamps/Dogs & wack 'em with a Hammer to Loosen the Dogs then remove the Nuts otherwise you may end up wearing dog/Clamp in the face..!!

This  ∆∆∆∆∆∆.

I think that is what the most critical aspect is.  The tires do NOT need to be deflated.  Those clamps will be wedged tight and smacking then loose before removing the nut is the only real danger of taking a dayton rim off.

The thread size for the nut is what you need to know the torque for.  Some are larger then others and this would take more torque.  I never really torqued mine, just the 3/4" impact going around in cross pattern after confirming the rim runs true.  I did watch my local tire shop torque them the one time they put new fronts on.

[Mark T]

Someone had a video of an Auzzie man installing a Dayton type rim on a trailer a while back. (he may have been changing a flat)  It was a very detailed simple example of removing and replacing a Dayton  (and correct). It was on a trailer if I remember correctly, but the steps he went through apply to anything. The deflating the tire part ???  a tube type with a split rim isn't something a guy with no experience should be playing with when it comes to changing the tire on the rim.  As far as the mounted tire on a vehicle , that part is the same as a tubeless. !!!! but.... if changing from tube type split rims to tubeless ???  there's a fairly good chance your hardware may change ( wedges, spacer )  and that's not to say the hardware on the truck already might be shot. In which case no torque or tightening will ever hold them on fast. 

[skydawg]

I got the right rears off,cleaning the hub facings.Is ok to use any lube or anti seize to make things go on smoother,esp the spacer.Thanks.

[mrsmackpaul]

6 hours ago, Dirtymilkman said:

Why were the Daytons so popular in Australia? 

Because our roads were crap and they are quick to change when you get a flat tyre and they are stronger than a 10 stud Bud type of rim, the Bud rims cracked a lot with our poor roads

I think mainly because they are so quick to change

 

Paul 

[mrsmackpaul]

1 hour ago, skydawg said:

I got the right rears off,cleaning the hub facings.Is ok to use any lube or anti seize to make things go on smoother,esp the spacer.Thanks.

Make sure they are nice and clean and free of dirty and grease etc, keep them square and slid them on even

They should be a reasonably neat fit as the spacer holds the inner dual on while you lift the outer on if that makes sense 

 

Paul

[davehummell]

If and when I was changing a Dayton I always used a little block that I would place next to the tire when I was tightening the lug nuts I used a 1/2 air wrench I shot for as true as I could make them when I rotated them. I have seen some jobs that was so bad who ever put the tires and rims on the truck should have been fired. I always loosened the nuts and hit each wedge with my hammer I didn't the first time I changed a tire and the wedge I took the nut off flew about 15 feet just missed me I never made that mistake again.

[Hayseed]

9 hours ago, Mark T said:

Someone had a video of an Auzzie man installing a Dayton type rim on a trailer a while back. (he may have been changing a flat)  It was a very detailed simple example of removing and replacing a Dayton  (and correct). It was on a trailer if I remember correctly, but the steps he went through apply to anything. The deflating the tire part ???  a tube type with a split rim isn't something a guy with no experience should be playing with when it comes to changing the tire on the rim.  As far as the mounted tire on a vehicle , that part is the same as a tubeless. !!!! but.... if changing from tube type split rims to tubeless ???  there's a fairly good chance your hardware may change ( wedges, spacer )  and that's not to say the hardware on the truck already might be shot. In which case no torque or tightening will ever hold them on fast. 

This one mark..??

 

 

[mechohaulic]

sure glad it was mentioned about leaving nuts on but loose  and the big hammer smack. have seen wedges fly a long way, it was a "test" took the nuts off stood  to the side and railed the rim with a sledge' YES they do fly at great speed and force. 

[mechohaulic]

old style budd wheels with inner and outer nuts always got never-seize; daytons only got lube from WD-40. a lubed thread tightens more when lubed. 

[Swishy]

My 2 c worth sez:

This could/would/should B printer friendly to A4 sheet portrailt

[Dirtymilkman]

Don't forget to always use a tire cage when filling with air!

[Mark T]

4 hours ago, Hayseed said:

This one mark..??

 

 

Yes it is.  Covers how to do it .

[skydawg]

Rear tires are mounted and aligned...took all day w/ cleanup/painting the spokes and spacers.Will do the steers if it stops raining today,first precip in almost a month here in NJ.