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Converting to Hub Pilot

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I've been thinking about converting my 88 R model from stud pilot to hub pilot. Has anyone done this and if so do you have any part #s for hubs. Mine is all Mack 12 f/a and rears 38s.

 

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I would like to do that also.mine is a 44000.

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The correct way to reach your goal is to contact your preferred local Mack brand dealer, or Watts Mack (provider of the BMT website) and provide them with your model and serial number off the vehicle identification plate on your driver's door. They'll take that information and submit a "changeover request" to Mack parts operations, who will research what parts would have been used had the truck originally been ordered/built that way. They'll provide the list of necessary parts to your chosen Mack dealer who can then order them for you.

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Ironic that i was just reading about this http://www.tru-bal.com product today and then i come here and see this post.  Essentially  it takes hub piloted wheels and recenters them to the studs.... making me wonder were stud piloted wheels better all along?

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Of course the whole thing made me chuckle thinking about people worrying if their hub pilot wheels were the tiniest bit out of true because i run spokes on my daily driver.

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Of course the whole thing made me chuckle thinking about people worrying if their hub pilot wheels were the tiniest bit out of true because i run spokes on my daily driver.

I have used TRU-BALANCE in the past, and would not be without it on any hub Pilots.

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Just out of curiosity why do you want to switch to hub pilots? They can be a total bitch to remove the inside dual if it has been on a long time.

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44k mack rears are about $250 a hub new from mack, I'll see if I can come up with a number. Check your hub close, late model stud pilot hubs where early hub pilot, had the flanges just not the newer style nut. My '95 CL was this way, you could drill stud holes out for bigger stud and be good to go ! I still have original set from that truck I kept for that purpose some day.

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9 hours ago, Underdog said:


I have used TRU-BALANCE in the past, and would not be without it on any hub Pilots.

Good to know.   Always like to hear real world results.  On their website they sell dial indicator type tools for checking your tires runout.  Would be interesting to use such a tool on different types of wheel mounting systems.  When i change the tires on the brockway i just use the old block of wood method.  I'am not sure if the guys at the tire shop even do that.

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Good to know.   Always like to hear real world results.  On their website they sell dial indicator type tools for checking your tires runout.  Would be interesting to use such a tool on different types of wheel mounting systems.  When i change the tires on the brockway i just use the old block of wood method.  I'am not sure if the guys at the tire shop even do that.

The centering tabs on my CX were deteriorated enough to where the steer wheels would not hold center. TRU-BALANCE saved me from buying new hubs.

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Actually stud- and hub-piloted wheels have different size of the central hole. That's not a great difference to spot by an eye if you don't pay attention to it but it exists. Hub-piloted wheel has the ID a bit smaller to fit a hub snug. Or about snag. So the idea of fit stud-piloted wheels on hub-piloted hubs is wrong on its very matter. People do it but get out of shape. Correctly - off the center. I had experience of putting hub wheels on stud hubs. Redrilled the stud holes and made recesses over them. Did it with a drilling machine using pilot tool and got fine. Was worrieing of the central hole to not clear my "stud" hubs but got Ok due to some corrosion or wear. My story was a different one though. I preferred to keep the truck original.

As for hubs you can swap them using the same bearing's inner fit (and offset?) hubs of a different truck and an off-brand one either.

For the axles you have on your R I can tell you the bearings ## and sizes since I have the similar setup in my trucks.

Front: inner MH212049/MH212011, spindle OD 66.8 mm (2-5/8"), outer 45280/45220 44.5 mm (3/4")

Rear: inner 582/572 82.7 mm (7-3/8), outer 563/567 73.1 mm (2-7/8")

Actually you don't need hubs with almost similar bearings. Just ones with bearings of similar ID's to fit your axle tubes.

Edited by Vladislav
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On ‎1‎/‎27‎/‎2017 at 10:05 PM, Underdog said:


I have used TRU-BALANCE in the past, and would not be without it on any hub Pilots.

I was wondering about those. You think they worth the cost?

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I was wondering about those. You think they worth the cost?

Especially on older units, where mating parts may be worn and allow movement. The steer axle sleeves make a difference in ride and tire wear for sure.

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OK. Thank you for the info. I will buy those for my truck

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OK. Thank you for the info. I will buy those for my truck

The sleeves for drive and trailer are actually a tool used for wheel installation. They do not stay mounted on the hub. Keep them in your toolbox and use them over and over on any truck you're working on.

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Where do you purchase this?

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Where do you purchase this?

Tru-bal.com

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You can call gunite that's where I got mine for the front axle tell them what the casting number is on your current hub they will cross it for you like they did for me. There is a place called find it parts they are drop shippers but get great rates on some parts I got my front hubs for just over a hundred dollars each shipped to me and they were not Chinese junk either. Find it parts is a crap shoot some parts are a fantastic deal some are not but its all brand name stuff worth a try though.

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Thanks I'll call gunnite. Also try find it parts after I get #s

Sent from my SM-G386W using Tapatalk

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I second finditparts.   If you put the item In your shopping cart for a day or  two they always email me and give me an extra 5%-10% off.   Like stated though some good deals some way over priced.  

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On Fri Jan 27 2017 at 9:31 PM, dogg rescue said:

Just out of curiosity why do you want to switch to hub pilots? They can be a total bitch to remove the inside dual if it has been on a long time.

One reason would be the brake drums are considerably cheaper like 50%  bought cast drums in March for my stud piloted hubs 215 a piece. A 3600A drum which is standard hub pilot is 100 a piece or less.  

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Too bad your not closer to me, I have lots of Conmet steer and drive axle hubs hub pilot. 

Truck Shop

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On 5/27/2017 at 6:50 PM, Truck Shop said:

Too bad your not closer to me, I have lots of Conmet steer and drive axle hubs hub pilot. 

Truck Shop

Where you located.?

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