gumbiegumbie Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 If there is a trick to keeping a mack drive axle from leaking oil between the carrier and the housing I would sure LOVE to hear it. I have cleaned everything past a surgical status and used the silicone that mack gave me that was their "special stuff" that was supposed to be "just for that". I followed their instructions to the letter. I checked around the bolt holes for cracks, I've went back and checked bolts nurmerous times......etc etc. It still wont stay dry for more than a week. I was just kidding in the title, I'm not gonna weld it in, although I wonder if the lack of a seam would mean it couldn't leak? Is there anything that can be done to stop these axles from leaking? besides draining the oil.... The camelback bushings are new, the isolator pads are all new, the torque rods are all new, pretty much everything that touches the rear end is new. Also new vents just in case there was thoughts of building internal pressure. Wonder if I could paint it around the seam with that flex-seal stuff on TV that the dummy coats the screen door with and uses it as the bottom of a fishing boat? I would try anything at this point. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swishy Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 GumbieGudday M8Didja check the mounting surface with a straight edgethink n may B the diff housing could B bent or twistedJista WAG LOLcya§wishy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b61mack Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 I used (The Right Stuff ) in the can I got from Carquest, it seems a little thicker. I made sure I used plenty so it squished out good all the way around. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrsmackpaul Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 is it coming out the joint or thru the casting or steel housing ??? might need to paint the inside of the housing or casting to seal it Paul 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apple dog Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 If it is leaking between the housing and carrier and you have synthetic grease in it. That stuff is hard to keep sealed up. The last time I done mine I used black RTV the parts man gave me. It was not the regular stuff if I see a tube after while i'll take a picture. It worked a lot better. Quote This is Mack country. On a quiet night you can hear a peterbilt rust away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freightrain Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 I use Ultra grey RTV on anything I need sealed up.I was petrified when I changed gears in my housing and had to silicone that thing and get it swung into the hole and bolted up without disturbing the silicone, etc. Still dry after 4 yrs.One thing I learned was put a thin coating on both sides, let tack and then stick together. Seems to bond better then just squirting it on one side and putting it together.Not much different then a lil old Ford 9", but just a LOT bigger and you can't just pick it up with your hands LOL. 2 Quote Larry 1959 B61 Liv'n Large...................... Charter member of the "MACK PACK" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hans Remmers Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 Yes, Ultra Grey and don't be afraid to let it tack up for 15-20 minutes prior to assembly. I always use it on bolt threads as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gumbiegumbie Posted November 4, 2015 Author Share Posted November 4, 2015 The stuff from Mack had their logo on the tube but it was gray. I will try actual Permatex Ultra grey the next go around and try putting it on both sides because so far I've only been putting a thick bead around the housing making sure to go around all the bolt holes but I never waited 20 minutes or so to let it get tacky either. I will incorporate all these new suggestion into the next go around and see how it goes. Thanks for all the ideas, hopefully it will work out. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigdogtrucker Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 I used (The Right Stuff ) in the can I got from Carquest, it seems a little thicker. I made sure I used plenty so it squished out good all the way around.This is THE stuff to use 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j hancock Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 It is hard to do but the cleaner the better with some Brake Clean before applying the RTV. Quote JimIt doesn't cost anything to pay attention. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 I used (The Right Stuff ) in the can I got from Carquest, it seems a little thicker. I made sure I used plenty so it squished out good all the way around.Thats some tough a$$ silicone, Ive used it before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirtymilkman Posted November 5, 2015 Share Posted November 5, 2015 I had a banjo housing that kept leaking by the bolts where the carrier drops in. Turns out the housing was cracked between the bolt holes. Very fine cracks between almost all of the holes. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apple dog Posted November 5, 2015 Share Posted November 5, 2015 It was the ultra black that I used. Both black and grey are the same just the color is different. Ultra works best Quote This is Mack country. On a quiet night you can hear a peterbilt rust away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1965 Posted November 5, 2015 Share Posted November 5, 2015 Use a flat file on both sides & clean real good; they make some spray on magni flux stuff to check for cracks; I've used it before; works good 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kt_Engineer Posted November 5, 2015 Share Posted November 5, 2015 The other possible reason for the leak could be the Helical Pinion retainer (on Mexican hat side) having a O-Ring over-sized (or bore under-size) which will cause the splashing oil from Helical gears to leak out through shim pack. The oil that leaks get accumulated around the carrier/axle-housing interface forcing you to believe that is where the leak is happening.One more leak area to check is the composite side(or Aluminum) cover on the bevel compartment cover side. It is the same O-Ring over-size/bore under-size issue on the cover that will cause O-Ring to pinch and oil to leak out accumulating around the carrier/axle housing interface.The best option in these cases will be to buy an O-Ring one size undersize and install them. The O-RING on helical pinion retainer and bevel compartment cover size are different and can be bought off-the-shelf. I am assuming you have a CRD92/93, CRD150/151 or CRD202/203 carrier. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m16ty Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 The best stuff I've used is called Indian Head. It's made to put on both sides of a gasket to seal but I've also used it without a gasket with good results. It's almost like a glue and works better than anything I've ever used.The only drawback is it's though to get the part removed if you ever have to get back in there.You can get it removed but if applied properly, it will be stuck pretty good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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