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Porch Pup
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Everything posted by gumbiegumbie

  1. Has anybody tried the agdieselsolutions 30100 for the 12.0L etechs? Looks simple enough to install and claims to give a few different power levels to choose from with a dash mounted switch. Cheap enough if it works, kind of pricey if it doesn't. Just wondering if anybody has tried it and if it really makes a noticeable difference.
  2. I don't know if it works out exactly like this but Rochester stage two are supposed to be 20% more and 850 is roughly 20% more than 700. I wouldn't want to go above a stage 2 for what I'm doing. I have figured out that go-big-or-go-home usually just sends you home broke down. I guess I would just see who had the best price because the 460 injectors and the stage 2 from rockchester seem to be about the same thing. Thanks again for all the information!
  3. If I do end up having to go the injector route as well, what do you think about the Rochester stage 2 or 2.5 or something to that effect or just go to the Mack store and buy 460p injectors. Not sure which way would be closer to what would work best and the more you read the more you hear it both ways
  4. Thanks Macpro. Was the somewhat special software in it from the factory? If he pulls that VIN number I won't get the changes you've made only what came in at factory right? What did y'all change up to make it different? I've got the non wastegated 460 Turbo and I was going to try the file without changing injectors and if it doesn't perform to expectations then maybe going ahead with the injectors.
  5. Got someone willing to help me with programming if I can come up with a vin# to a truck that was a ccrs 427. Mine is a 2001 model and he said the closer the year model the less difficult it would be. I now have a 355/380 and I already have the bigger turbo and my understanding is my current injectors will be fine up to 427 so if I can get the ecu/vcu files squared away I should be good. Thanks in advance for any and all help.
  6. The 18k axle was from a volvo roll off truck. Fit perfectly, put my 425 floats on the front with five leaf springs and it does great. It's a tri-axle dump with a steerable third axle and I don't have the reverse lock so I have to pick the third axle up to back up and this loads the front Springs pretty good when I get where I'm going and have to back up to dump and after a few years the springs lose their strength and I just put some new ones on and go again.
  7. I forgot to mention that I have swapped the front axle out for a 18000 pound axle out of another truck to get the bigger wheel bearings hubs and brakes. I buy two for leaf springs and one three leaf springs and to tie bolts and make myself two five leaf springs and it works great. I know technically I don't have the shackles and Hangers of an 18000 but I put the blue urethane bushings in what I've got and the shackles and Hangers don't really give me trouble. It's just time for some more Springs and now nobody can find these four leaf springs. Going to holler at the parts manager today and see what he'll do any better
  8. Does anybody know the part number for front leaf springs for a 2000 CH Mack setback front end with the four leaf spring? My VIN number is 133939 but that's going to come up as a three leaf spring and I know they make a four leaf spring just like it I just don't know the part number and the mack dealer only goes by VIN numbers. Thanks in advance for any and all help
  9. My problem ended up being the fuel line from the secondary fuel filter over to the side of the block where it screws to the fuel rail. The cloth braid line with the makeup ends had gotten worn out from vibration and when the nut was tight on the fitting the line itself would steal wiggle inside the nut if that makes sense like it wasn't pressing the flare part up against the fitting tight and would let it suck air. Found it by pure accident when I bump the line with my hand messing with something else and seen it wiggle at that fitting and thought it was loose but the nut was tight and the line was indeed loose. Changed out that line and truck cranks perfect now no matter how long you leave it sitting
  10. My water pump is leaking and I got to looking for one and didn't realize that Mack has 928 different part numbers for pumps that look exactly the same. The mack dealership wants well over $400 for a water pump and they are all over eBay and several other online sites for as low as 75 bucks but I can't find one with the exact numbers as mine yet they all look exactly like mine and I was wondering if anyone could clear up what will fit and what won't or what the difference actually is or maybe point out a good place to buy one. My pump says D.L.M. 360 GB52M it's a 2001 etech with the 10 rib Serpentine with the little v-belt behind it for the air conditioner. Last six 133939. Does anybody have some interchange numbers? Would love two by one of the pumps off eBay for less than 100 just want to make sure it fits. Thanks in advance for any and all help!
  11. Thanks Mr Hancock and kscarbel. I have a spiral notebook that I keep part numbers in and I added all three of those numbers for easy future reference. Thanks again!
  12. When I tried to go to that link a message comes up telling me my connection isn't private and hackers might be trying to steal my information so I just clicked off of it for fear of something going wrong. Tried putting the address in instead of using the link and got the same results.
  13. Anybody know the part number for the seal where the back drive shaft comes out of the front drive axle on a CRD 92. I can't go by my VIN number because the truck came with 202 + 203 and I have sent then swapped it to 92 and 93.
  14. Didn't think about it like that! But you're right, who needs low! LOL but just in case it gets turned on low I didn't want to mess anything up having it Twist on the wrong end of the crankshaft
  15. Long story short, my truck didn't have a jake brake and I'm adding one. Turned the Jake on in the computer and added the switch to the dash and apparently there is more than one switch and I got the wrong one because I had to move some wires in the plug to different pins on the switch. Everything is working now. One head on low both heads on high. My question is, on low should it be the back head or the front head or does it even matter. Wasn't sure if you're only going to put pressure on three throws of the crank if it needed to be the ones closest to the clutch or if it even matters. Which way are they from the factory with a brake?
  16. Didn't really know how to check that. Got that message after the truck was back together and running. I put an aluminum straight edge across all six cylinders and with a light behind the straight edge it was touching both sides of all six sleeves at the same time. I knew they were supposed to all be the same height but wasn't really sure how to go about it. It's back together though and running good and strong and not drinking water thank goodness! Thanks to everyone for all the replies and help!
  17. Got the head check this morning at the Machine Shop and it ended up being cracked from an injector hole over to an intake valve. Time for a new head
  18. Can anyone tell me if an E-Tech has water cooled injectors nozzles? The head man told me something about the injector cups cracking and letting water in. I know my old Cummins was like that but I'm not sure if these injector cups have water around them or not or if they just seal for compression?
  19. Well I got the heads off and number 4 was the culprit. Chalky white all over the top of the piston. Not sure if the heads cracked or the gasket blew. I had that head off a while back to put a sleeve in and I'm thinking wrestling the heavy head by hand up under the windshield cowl I might have nicked a gasket or fire ring. The flip side to that is that would make me think it should pressurize the radiator like it did when the sleeve cracked that I was replacing and it would be blowing water everywhere out of The Purge tank up top. So that leads me to believe maybe the heads cracked and the water is coming from within the circle of the fire ring through a crack in the head. Have a machine shop going to check the head Monday morning for cracks and if it's good I'm going to clean everything up and slap a new gasket on it and hope for the best. I put a straight edge across the top of all the sleeves and they are all perfectly the same height. I say that because I questioned if I got the sleeve pushed in all the way back when I replaced it but everything does look good there. I'm going to rig-up an electric hoist this time so I can control the head a little better and guide it straight down onto the gasket and dowel pins. Last time between being aggravated and tired I'm sure I scooted the head around a little until it fell on the dowel pins and probably screwed a gasket up. I'll post Monday and tell y'all what the head man says.
  20. Thanks dscannon! Didn't think of checking that and that really isn't that much work to yank the turbo and exhaust manifold. I don't mind fixing anything but I absolutely hate figuring out what to fix. If someone could just say , "hey you need a sleeve in #5 or your front head is cracked" I would smile and say give me a few hours. I never saw any steam out the pipe but maybe the weather is just not right to see it or something?? I'll try these ideas tomorrow and get it figured out. Thanks again to everyone!
  21. We live in a little hick town in the middle of nowhere Ville I'm not sure where to even begin looking for somewhere to send an oil sample? I've driven the truck somewhere around 300 miles today and have put over six gallons of water in it. I should be able to find water in the oil if that's where it's going I would think. If it's the air compressor does it put the water in the oil or does it put it in the air tanks?
  22. I'm going to drop the oil pan tomorrow and pressurize the cooling system and see what's dripping. If the air compressor was doing it the water should be visible, coming from the coolant bottle or something. I'm thinking it has to be in the oil. Not sure why the oil doesn't look Milky with that much water in it but that's got to be it.
  23. How easy is it to rupture an oil cooler on the inside? I ask because the reason the radiator cap was replaced was because the rubber on the cap swelled up and got deformed and wasn't letting the pressure bleed off to the little weehole to the other tank and I blew a couple radiator hoses off. The radiator cap fixed that but now it's losing coolant. I'm wondering if maybe the oil cooler got ruptured and it's just letting water go down in the oil pan. I don't have any of the Milky stuff in my oil but it seems like I'm gaining oil on the dipstick. Going to keep an eye on it the next time or two putting water in and see if the amount of water I'm losing its close to the amount of oil I'm gaining. What besides the oil cooler could be putting water in the oil?
  24. I put a new radiator cap on yesterday. It doesn't have a transmission cooler. The water pump bolts are all there and there's no wet spots anywhere around the water pump. I didn't see any milky stuff on the underneath side of the oil cap or on the dipstick or running my finger around the blow by tube. If I check the oil closer and find water are you thinking oil cooler or a sleeve? Looks like a sleeve would make the truck run bad and it runs good. It's not running hot as long as you keep water in it and it's not missing or stumbling or weak.
  25. My truck started something new today. About every seventy or eighty miles 100 at best my low water light comes on and I stop and fill it back up. I stopped on dry clean concrete and can't find any water dripping anywhere can't find any wet spots on the motor, radiator, or nothing else. Pull the oil cap off to see if it looks milky underneath are any steam coming out and found neither. Can't see steam coming out of the exhaust. Look down in the water bucket where the hose comes up from the motor looking to see if there were bubbles coming up like a hole in a sleeve or a head gasket or something like that and can't find anything. Any more ideas on where this water might be going? It's a 2000 etech 400. Doesn't have EGR cooler or nothing like that. Thanks in advance for any ideas!
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