gumbiegumbie

I changed the EECU and the engine harness to rule out bad computer or wiring with no change. That was my way of reflashing the computer I just changed it to a different one . There's no ELD plugged into the data port. Oil pressure sensor and coolant level sensor and coolant temperature sensor have all been changed with no difference. The plugs going to the vecu all 3 look good no corrosion or rusting or rotting of any kind on any of that wiring. I took the dash cluster out and unsoldered the buzzer out of it and threw it in the toolbox and went back to driving the truck. The light on the dash doesn't bother me at all just had to get rid of that annoying buzzer. Going to add my own low air alarm and Let It Go.

Is there anywhere in the Mack software to monitor with the laptop that will tell me why the shutdown light is being triggered? Not getting electronic malfunction light to give a code only the shutdown light. I understand this is triggered by the data link and I'm just wondering if the laptop has somewhere that will show where the signal is coming from to trigger it

Changed ecu, vecu, engine wiring harness, instrument cluster, cam sensor, flywheel sensor, checked batteries, cables, and alternator, went over cab harness and found no rubbed spots. Cleared codes and they stayed gone. Just keep getting shutdown light and alarm if I go above 1500 or so. Bump neutral and let it idle about 5 seconds and go again as long as you stay under 1500. Doesn't matter if you use the pedal or the cruise and doesn't matter if you're pulling or letting it rev by holding back going downhill, same result above 1500 rpm

shutdown bulb and the eml bulb are both good and the alarm is working. I get both lights at key on and the shutdown light goes off until I stay above 1500 for a few seconds. The eml light is staying on constantly with codes 53 and 55

I have a 2001 ch613 and I keep getting a shutdown light and buzzer if I go above 1500 or so rpms for more than a second or two, (( like when going through higher gears )). It doesn't actually turn the truck off and if you bump it in neutral for a second it will go off and stay off if you stay under 1500 ish.... It has code 5-3 and 5-5 and my vmac III service manual has me go through steps that lead me to check vecu connector J3 pin 8 for short to ground or power. Problem is, J3 doesn't have a pin in position 8 and on top of that nothing in the troubleshooting mentions this code being rpm related. I have and extra ecu and an extra vecu and have swapped both of them and the problem remains the same. With any combination of the setup I can clear the code using nexi and mack software and it comes back immediately. Any thoughts?

The motor uses a little oil anyway and we're only talking about a quart or so to make the power steering reservoir to fill up to the rim of the filler neck so that part is hard to tell if there are equal or not. That motor might not be using as much as I think though if it would quit putting it in the reservoir? Use the power steering pump is bolted to the front of what I call the timing cover and drives off the opposite end of the accessory drive from the air compressor

This is an odd one. My power steering reservoir keeps getting over full and putting oil out the cap. There's no power steering cooler that is intertwined with coolant for it to be water. The lines go solely between the steering box the power steering pump and the reservoir. The only thing I can come up with is somehow or another the pump is pulling motor oil around the snout of the pump and somehow putting it in with the power steering oil. Anybody ever seen this? It's a 2001 model ch 613. Steering is working fine. Power steering still seemed as easy as it ever was. Just keeps pushing oil out the top of the can getting it all over everything around and under it. And it's not just the gasket leaking because I suck oil out with a suction gun and get it right down to the full cold mark and run it for about a week and the oil will be right to the rim of the filler cap. Thanks in advance for any insight on this

Has anybody tried the agdieselsolutions 30100 for the 12.0L etechs? Looks simple enough to install and claims to give a few different power levels to choose from with a dash mounted switch. Cheap enough if it works, kind of pricey if it doesn't. Just wondering if anybody has tried it and if it really makes a noticeable difference.

I don't know if it works out exactly like this but Rochester stage two are supposed to be 20% more and 850 is roughly 20% more than 700. I wouldn't want to go above a stage 2 for what I'm doing. I have figured out that go-big-or-go-home usually just sends you home broke down. I guess I would just see who had the best price because the 460 injectors and the stage 2 from rockchester seem to be about the same thing. Thanks again for all the information!

If I do end up having to go the injector route as well, what do you think about the Rochester stage 2 or 2.5 or something to that effect or just go to the Mack store and buy 460p injectors. Not sure which way would be closer to what would work best and the more you read the more you hear it both ways

Thanks Macpro. Was the somewhat special software in it from the factory? If he pulls that VIN number I won't get the changes you've made only what came in at factory right? What did y'all change up to make it different? I've got the non wastegated 460 Turbo and I was going to try the file without changing injectors and if it doesn't perform to expectations then maybe going ahead with the injectors.

Got someone willing to help me with programming if I can come up with a vin# to a truck that was a ccrs 427. Mine is a 2001 model and he said the closer the year model the less difficult it would be. I now have a 355/380 and I already have the bigger turbo and my understanding is my current injectors will be fine up to 427 so if I can get the ecu/vcu files squared away I should be good. Thanks in advance for any and all help.

The 18k axle was from a volvo roll off truck. Fit perfectly, put my 425 floats on the front with five leaf springs and it does great. It's a tri-axle dump with a steerable third axle and I don't have the reverse lock so I have to pick the third axle up to back up and this loads the front Springs pretty good when I get where I'm going and have to back up to dump and after a few years the springs lose their strength and I just put some new ones on and go again.

I forgot to mention that I have swapped the front axle out for a 18000 pound axle out of another truck to get the bigger wheel bearings hubs and brakes. I buy two for leaf springs and one three leaf springs and to tie bolts and make myself two five leaf springs and it works great. I know technically I don't have the shackles and Hangers of an 18000 but I put the blue urethane bushings in what I've got and the shackles and Hangers don't really give me trouble. It's just time for some more Springs and now nobody can find these four leaf springs. Going to holler at the parts manager today and see what he'll do any better

Does anybody know the part number for front leaf springs for a 2000 CH Mack setback front end with the four leaf spring? My VIN number is 133939 but that's going to come up as a three leaf spring and I know they make a four leaf spring just like it I just don't know the part number and the mack dealer only goes by VIN numbers. Thanks in advance for any and all help

My problem ended up being the fuel line from the secondary fuel filter over to the side of the block where it screws to the fuel rail. The cloth braid line with the makeup ends had gotten worn out from vibration and when the nut was tight on the fitting the line itself would steal wiggle inside the nut if that makes sense like it wasn't pressing the flare part up against the fitting tight and would let it suck air. Found it by pure accident when I bump the line with my hand messing with something else and seen it wiggle at that fitting and thought it was loose but the nut was tight and the line was indeed loose. Changed out that line and truck cranks perfect now no matter how long you leave it sitting

My water pump is leaking and I got to looking for one and didn't realize that Mack has 928 different part numbers for pumps that look exactly the same. The mack dealership wants well over $400 for a water pump and they are all over eBay and several other online sites for as low as 75 bucks but I can't find one with the exact numbers as mine yet they all look exactly like mine and I was wondering if anyone could clear up what will fit and what won't or what the difference actually is or maybe point out a good place to buy one. My pump says D.L.M. 360 GB52M it's a 2001 etech with the 10 rib Serpentine with the little v-belt behind it for the air conditioner. Last six 133939. Does anybody have some interchange numbers? Would love two by one of the pumps off eBay for less than 100 just want to make sure it fits. Thanks in advance for any and all help!

Thanks Mr Hancock and kscarbel. I have a spiral notebook that I keep part numbers in and I added all three of those numbers for easy future reference. Thanks again!

When I tried to go to that link a message comes up telling me my connection isn't private and hackers might be trying to steal my information so I just clicked off of it for fear of something going wrong. Tried putting the address in instead of using the link and got the same results.

Anybody know the part number for the seal where the back drive shaft comes out of the front drive axle on a CRD 92. I can't go by my VIN number because the truck came with 202 + 203 and I have sent then swapped it to 92 and 93.

Didn't think about it like that! But you're right, who needs low! LOL but just in case it gets turned on low I didn't want to mess anything up having it Twist on the wrong end of the crankshaft

Long story short, my truck didn't have a jake brake and I'm adding one. Turned the Jake on in the computer and added the switch to the dash and apparently there is more than one switch and I got the wrong one because I had to move some wires in the plug to different pins on the switch. Everything is working now. One head on low both heads on high. My question is, on low should it be the back head or the front head or does it even matter. Wasn't sure if you're only going to put pressure on three throws of the crank if it needed to be the ones closest to the clutch or if it even matters. Which way are they from the factory with a brake?

Didn't really know how to check that. Got that message after the truck was back together and running. I put an aluminum straight edge across all six cylinders and with a light behind the straight edge it was touching both sides of all six sleeves at the same time. I knew they were supposed to all be the same height but wasn't really sure how to go about it. It's back together though and running good and strong and not drinking water thank goodness! Thanks to everyone for all the replies and help!

Got the head check this morning at the Machine Shop and it ended up being cracked from an injector hole over to an intake valve. Time for a new head

Can anyone tell me if an E-Tech has water cooled injectors nozzles? The head man told me something about the injector cups cracking and letting water in. I know my old Cummins was like that but I'm not sure if these injector cups have water around them or not or if they just seal for compression?