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Challenger last won the day on January 3 2017

Challenger had the most liked content!

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About Challenger

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  • Birthday 12/06/1978


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    Pittsburgh Pa

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  1. Ive had a few red engine Macks kick the ABS, ATC and malfunction light on after raining. Its always cleared and only came back after a good rain. Ive feel like Ive been looking for this problem for years. Our new Granite (1500miles) did it, but this time stayed active. I found water in the chassis connector. There are 2 connectors just above the air dryer, left frame rail, just behind cab. The green one has the abs/atc wires in it. Cleaned out and applied dielectric grease to the connector. Cleared codes and its never came back. Did this to all the red engine Macks and I have no more
  2. The fuse box that goes bad is the EPDM. The fuse box behind clutch pedal. Pull some relays out and check for corrosion. Replace EPDM (fusebox) if any corrosion found. The windshield leaks and water gets in EPDM and causes corrosion.
  3. From my experience with bad vebs it sounds something like- blum, blum, blum, blum, blum, blaahhh. Smooth running and kinda like the key shut it down. Not cracking and popping like old Mack’s. I installed an engine brake on a Waste Management MP7 years ago. Started it, after a few seconds it shutdown. Thought it was more of an electrical problem. Eventually figured out the brand new veb was bad. I’ve seen a lot of bad vebs since then. May not be your problem. But definitely worth remembering. Good luck
  4. I’m still leaning towards veb. The engine runs normal up until brake kicks on and shutdowns. I would start truck, watch oil pressure gauge. If engine shuts down when oil pressure goes up, I would replace the VEB. Especially since you did touched the veb doing cups. Just my thoughts.
  5. Was the tstat marked, top or front? Was it installed correctly. Anybody know what would happen if you didn’t put the tstat in with marking in the right spot?
  6. Maybe a bad VEB 45 seconds sounds about right for oil pressure to build up. If the veb is bad and activating the engine brake it would shut down/stall. Whats your description of shutting off. examples Shut off like the key was off. All power off or Shutting down but accessories still on.
  7. Are you 100% sure you replaced the oil pressure sensor not the crankcase pressure sensor. I’ve seen people replace the crankcase pressure sensor instead of oil pressure. Sensors are stacked, can’t remember if the top or bottom sensor is oil pressure.
  8. Maybe a air conditioning high pressure switch failing? Maybe try a known good switch. Should be the green switch/sensor on ac lines.
  9. Small window under starter. 2 bolts hold the cover on. Remove cover, turn engine until you see a flexplate bolt, remove bolt, turn engine until next bolt. Continue Installing bolts is the important part. If you drop a bolt inside while installing trans, you’ll have to pull trans back out. Take your time while installing the bolts. You will have to put them all in most of the way, then go back around for final torque. Not difficult. Good luck
  10. Check your EPDM for corrosion. The epdm is the fuse box behind the clutch pedal or where the clutch pedal would be. The windshields would leak and water runs all over the epdm causing corrosion. Pull a few relays out and check them. Mack added a little rain coat to the epdm to keep water away. But I still see the with corrosion Had a truck where one headlight would turn on when the truck was sitting in the rain over night.
  11. Pretty sure they are behind the brake pedal and throttle pedal dash panel. Those sensors and wires are kind of “stuffed” behind that pedal. Like a rats nest
  12. No fuel, no boost Fuel and boost pressures are the main things I check with low power complaints. You need to check your fuel pressure I put a fitting in the fuel galley plug and use 1/4” airline and the air pressure gauge (same as the one in the cab). I use green needle for fuel and orange for boost. It’s not fancy or “techy” but it gets the job done. I like to keep it simple. The fuel galley plug that I use is in the front of the engine, left side, directly in front of the EUPs. Under the AC compressor if you have one. It’s a 1/4” square plug. I use a 1/4 extensio
  13. If a new part has to be repaired, the customer should pay for a used part, not full price. But we all know that isn’t going to happen. I’ve always sent them back. But then again, the customer is probably losing more money with the added down time on waiting for a new part to show up. Good to know Macktech689. Thanks
  14. VMAC III isn’t even that old. I can understand dealers not having anyone with VMAC I and II, and older Volvo experience. But VMAC III? That’s sad. Nothing like going to a dealer and having some apprentice tech with maybe a year experience telling you what you need. These are the guys putting engine harness on gray engines like they’re MP engines. “You need a set of injectors and an engine harness.” Today’s Mack dealer
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