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Big Dog
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About steeler

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  1. Maybe a stupid question, but is your plastic idler pulley still there? I've seen them go bad and break off the engine completely.
  2. And don't get lazy when tapping the copper sleeve and not go all the way thru. Ask me how I know. Had to pull the head for that mistake.
  3. Do you have the part number for the install tool for conicals? I never knew they had one other than the pull thru. Is the push thru easier to use?
  4. I agree. Run it. As far as testing the eup, sometimes you can lay a couple fingers in the injection line and feel the pulse, some may feel stronger/weaker. If you have one that feels noticeably weaker, that could be your problem, but if you're not sure then I would live with it myself.
  5. Ok fixed it. I am no longer a fan of working on an engine that has had the aftertreatment deleted. I had no check engine light, I was checking for codes in guided diagnostics add I always do. Well since this is us10 emissions, I took a quick look at the faults in the test section and was showing an active fault for coolant level. I fiddled with the sensor connection and now that's all good. I don't know anything about the software they program these things with when they delete them, but apparently it's whacky. Ok next problem (which ain't gonna be my problem) there isn't anywhere in ptt to program the injector trim codes as I always do. The truck runs fine, but has a little haze to the exhaust. Like I said, it's not my problem. If he wants the codes put in I guess he will have to take it to whoever deleted it. Anyway thanks for the help guys.
  6. I'll check that in the morning, but it doesn't sound like the brake is kicking in at all. I can even hold it wide open throttle, same 45 seconds, no crackle, pop, stumble, just shuts off.
  7. Instant shut off just like you turned the key off, but dash still lit. No stumble or anything.
  8. Could be a crappy eup as well.
  9. Filter should be right next to the evap, behind the center panel. Is your ac compressor cycling? If not could be a bad thermostat. Also make sure it has the correct charge amount.
  10. Working on a 2011 Volvo road tractor, not sure of the model since they don't put it on the vin label. It has a D13, came in with hard starting problem. It had 3 cups leaking. I changed injectors and cups, now the thing ribs great for 45 seconds and shuts off. It will fire right back up, run exactly 45 seconds and shut off. The key is jacked up in this thing, you can take it out whole it's running, and I'm pretty sure you could start it with a screw driver. No new faults, only the same one that was in it before I worked on it, for def level from the instrument cluster. Of course this one has the aftertreatment deleted as well. Is there any security feature I'm not aware of that would shut it off because the key is flopping around in there? I'm just grasping here, not sure where to go.
  11. Tell me about it! My mind used to be an encyclopedia of Mack part numbers. Our parts shelves lined up alphabetically, now I couldn't tell you the part number of squat.
  12. I'll give that an AMEN! None of us know what would have been if Volvo had stayed out of it, but this sucks. There is almost nothing I like about Volvo.
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