Trumbull_welding

From the digging around I did so far I don’t believe it has a fuse box on the drivers side In the cab it does have one passenger side dash I’ll double check tomorrow

Unfortunately already done under hood and in cab found one relay on the fire wall that was a little green but it was functioning and I swapped it with another to make sure

Me either lol! Yes sir cleaned all the grounds with a scotch bright wheel and put back togather, battery’s are all good also checked the ground breaker on the firewall and cleaned the connections up there, no easily visible wiring issues without tearing into loom or pulling wiring out from behind eup’s.

No coolant in the ecu plug very slight oil wicking cleaned it out with electrical cleaner and blew out with air made no change, popped the plug apart and inspected from the backside everything looks good, I have 12v battery and 12v key on at the top right plug on the computer found ground at multiple pins coming out off the computer at the other ports but no power at any of the other ports I assume I should be getting some kind of reference or supply voltage comping out of the big port on the left side of the computer no? Also ran a jumper ground wire between ecu housing and engine ground. all the memory codes are gone just have two active PID:412 FMI:5 egr exhaust gas temp: low current or open circuit SID:254 FMI:4 low voltage or short to ground

Two active codes 33045 : MID128 injection ecu, sid:277, fmi5 low current or open circut egr exhaust gas temperature mid128:injection ecu, pid412, fmi5 low current or open circuit memory codes 33037 : mid128 injection ecu, sid269,fmi4 lo voltage or short circuit to earth code for each injector all the same being mid 128 injection ecu, sid1, fmi6 high current or short to ground and last one is control unit 1 faulty: mid128 injection ecu, sid254, fmi4 low voltage or short to earth

Just got to the truck hooked up a fuel pressure gauge getting over 60psi cranking and have blink codes 5-9, 5-8, and 8-1 the 8-1 has since gone away and the first two seam to alternate one or the other. And I wasn’t here when it shut down but from what they told me just a sharp turn off. Plugging the laptop in now be back shortly with actual codes. Thank you sir

Afternoon all, Having an issue with a chn 613 e7 aset the truck ran out of fuel in the passenger side tank had about half tank on the drive side when I got to the truck I fueled it up and primed it got it to sputter and start a few times then no start at all checked cam and crank sense both good. Filters full etc, I then put a gauge on it and was reading 0 psi when cranking I put a fuel pump in it new filters full when installed took a little longer than expected to get fuel back at the lines but got adequate fuel flow after lots of primer pumping , cracked three lines and she started pretty easily and good fuel pressure while running. Truck went on the road today after idling for about 45 minutes made it 5 minutes down the road and shut down both tanks are completely full truck dose not appear to have lost prime. They pulled and cleaned a couple relays and said the truck started and ran for 30 minutes at adle then they ran it for 15 at 1500 rpm and the truck shut down and didn’t sound like it ran empty just shut off. I’m going to plug it into the computer when I get there shortly. Any thoughts? thanks I’m advance!

I do not have a book I’ll get one though. Cam looks to be in good shape to me. Assuming I don’t find anything else along the way is it possible to get away with h-rings and lifters? Have to pull the heads to do h-rings correct?

Welp looks to me like we lost a couple of those ceramic lifter rollers your were talkin about. And o-ring possibly from an eup? Getting under to get a look at the cam now. -Chris

Had some bad weather and power outages yesterday oils draining as we speak then I’ll get this pan dropped and update with my findings. Should I set number one to TDC compression before i pull the front rocker shaft? Just so i I know where I’m at once there off -Chris

Awesome thank you I’ll get it ordered up -Chris

Thank you sir are there any other specialty tools I’ll need besides the h-ring installer? Do you need the puller to get them out? Id like to order them now even if I don’t end up needing them this time around I’ll need them eventually and I rather have them in the tool box ready to go. -Chris

Pulled the rear rocker shaft and pulled the exhaust pushrod from #6 it dosent seem bent to me I rolled it on the bench and put a straight edge against it I’ll post the pictures below. Is it possible the over rev when it ran away could have knocked an h-ring loose? And as you said with ceramic rollers with that much play I imagine there’s a chance that one’s already done. As of right now my game plan tomorrow is going to be to drop the oil pan and take a peak from underneath let me know if you’ve got any other suggestions. As always greatly appreciate the wisdom. -Chris

IMG_1283.mov This is number six exhaust I’m not collapsing the spring at all what you see here is all lash

How do I go about making a donation to BMT I’m still a little leery on #6 exhaust I’ve got about a 1/4” air gap between the rocker and contact surface on the bridge and both springs feel sturdy I can’t be that far off on this one. 🤨 -Chris