Jump to content

steeler

Big Dog
  • Content Count

    201
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

33 Excellent

About steeler

  • Rank
    BMT Veteran VIP

Profile Information

  • Location
    Indiana

Recent Profile Visitors

1,864 profile views
  1. Thanks for the tips guys but I got it out! Luckily the customer wasn't in a hurry so I waited for my snap on guy to see what he had for stud removers. He had a Blue Point set that incremented in .25 millimeters, and they are very thin walled. I was able to get one in there and remove the tool bit, then removed the broken cup nipple the normal way, luckily without it falling into the cylinder. Huge victory!
  2. Yes it did break the tip of the cup, I figured that would happen. I would feel a little better if I could come up with a way to get the piece of broken tool out of that tip, but it isn't looking good. Im not sure I would have much luck blowing that piece out thru an exhaust port since it's a pretty heavy chunk. Damnit!!
  3. I'm.pretty sure I know the answer to this question but I've got D12 with copper cups, the extractor bit broke off on the cup. Has anybody successfully removed a copper cup with the conical cup puller? That's the only way I can see myself having any chance of getting it out without pulling the head. This sucks! Pulled 3 of them with no problem, other than they were extra tight it seemed. I don't know why but the bit just snapped off!
  4. If I were getting a harness I would go new. I'm not sure you could find a good one from a scrap yard, those seem to get chopped when they remove other components.
  5. Didn't come on at key on? If that's the case change the bulb and get the blink code off the dash.
  6. I had a feeling. Looks like you are pulling heads.
  7. Your 2511 code is for the output speed sensor on the rear of the transmission.
  8. I was thinking it was fuse 30 or 31, but I'm digging WAY back in the memory bank. I use to pull those fuses while cranking to check compression.
  9. You would normally see a fault code if you have broken or shorted eup wires. I've seen a few have chafed wiring where you describe, but all had faults. Those harnesses are actually pretty solid, much more so than the MP engines for sure! This is smelling more and more of a valve train issue.
  10. That slot faces the passenger side. There is a pin in the block that rides in that slot. If the pin breaks, the roller can turn sideways which will destroy the roller and the camshaft.
  11. Does it miss when up to temp as well?
  12. So you have replaced the#1 unit pump and injector and still missing in number 1? No fault codes for unit pump? Can you feel the pulse in the injection line in number one? As far as the rocker, make sure you loosen the 2 rocker stand bolts when you torque the rocker shaft down or it will break the bolts/shaft again. How about the valve adjustment in number 1? Nothing wacky going on there? I've seen the pins break in the engine brake plunger and cause a miss, but usually it will only miss after the engine brake is activated and a short period thereafter until the oil has time to bleed out. If you have no electrical issue causing the unit pump to not fire, then you are down to a compression issue. You could always swap the rocker front to rear to eliminate an issue there.
  13. Lol!! Hey I'm confident enough in my abilities that I can admit when I screw up. It happens to all of us. I try not to let it happen often, but occasionally it will. The trick is getting the best outcome and not costing the company too much money lol. I have a pretty good idea in my head of what that cam tool looked like afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...