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Al and son

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About Al and son

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    Gear Jammer

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    Mack trucks

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    1970 R model Mack

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  1. I have spent a fortune on mine. It doesn't run well and it's always in the shop. I'm ready to get rid of it.
  2. CX613 018585 The engine was inframed about a year ago. Been chasing oil and coolant leaks since. Right now coolant is leaking down the block on the left side near the front. I had to take it to a different mack dealer. The one that inframed it just gives me a run around and big bills. They never fix anything
  3. Was the ecm in 04 still able to be programmed by the customer? I can't seem to get the dealer to even look into it. Anytime I ask they just get the crucifix out and change the subject. I even asked about getting it flashed and start over. They won't even do that. It runs like it was gutted. Put the truck on the dyno, it isn't making power or the right manifold pressure and the fan comes on and won't kick off, even when it's not warm. The engine was rebuilt last April. They put the wrong injectors in it. So far everytime it's gone to Mack they say they don't know why it's doing it, pull the codes, charge me big $$$, and change nothing. Only thing they changed is now, is it leaks oil, they won't talk about that either. Very frustrating.
  4. Trying to figure out what this port is for? Coolant comes out of it sometimes. Looks like it is screwed right into the block. It makes a mess on the right side under the cab. Runs down the transmission. I'm pretty sure its coolant. Would think it would stink of fuel if that was it, and the oil really doesn't go down at all. The picture is up side down. Its on the right side of the block.
  5. It's been rebuilt. Runs better, still no pulling power. Now it has a mystery coolant leak. If it sits for more than 24 hours it loses prime.
  6. I've put millions of miles on Mack trucks. All of them combined didn't have the issues this vision does. It just turned 600,000 miles. I had the engine rebuilt, still no power and leaks oil more than ever. The fan never shuts off when pulling a trailer, no one can figure out why. Bobtail or idle it works normally. Had the clutch adjusted, Mack says the return spring was gone, so just like that it's right back where it started. I've been thrown out of 3 shops, including a Mack dealer, they just won't work on this "can of worms" anymore. Two days ago the a.c. exploded and covered the front of the truck and the windshield in yellow dye. My R model that sat in a junk yard for 20 years is more reliable. At this point I'd like to have this vision smashed into a rubiks cube and buried at sea.
  7. There isn't coolant in the oil. The heads are getting done. It's looking like the previous owner didn't maintain this truck at all. I'll clean the crank case breather when it gets home. I'm sure it hasn't been cleaned in 10 years
  8. The egr cooler is clear. Going to pull the heads to get the freeze plugs replaced and gone through. Guess the rings are getting bad. That will be a battle for another day. I'll have the crank breather checked as well
  9. I have a 2004 e7 egr engine. The egr cooler is totally plugged. It has oil leaking from the exhaust manifold bolts, the freeze plugs are leaking, and blow by is coming from the front main seal. I'm having the cooler cleaned. Would that cooler being plugged cause back pressure in the engine? Is there a vent system that maybe plugged that is causing the blow by comming from the front seal? The engine has no power. Mack sent an oil sample out, i don't see any signs of coolant/ oil mixing. Is this a issue of to much pressure inside the block? So far its been to 3 different shops. 2 said oh is bad and we aren't opening a can of worms. Of coarse after they charged me $1000 and $1400 for mickey mouse fixes. Now Mack has had it for 2 weeks, said its throwing an egr valve code, they said it is working, and 2 injector codes. They don't want to work on it either. They all say its bad, but wont tell me why. They all want 10s of thousands of dollars to fix it. What on earth is going on with this thing?
  10. Did put a new resistor in. The old one was fried
  11. Been trying to get the heater fan to work on something other than high. Thought it was the switch, no biggie. Problem is the connector is melted in the center. Mack recommended changing the wiring harness. Problem is, it goes into the dash and goes around some gizmo and I can't find where it goes from there. How do I change this thing out without tearing the entire truck apart? It's a 2004 Mack CX
  12. I didn't know the lock had to come out first. I've driven tons of R models. Can't remember ever seeing the door apart. The window split right down the center and half fell into the door. It jammed in, so I had to get it apart with the window up. We did with out breaking any of the glass pieces. It broke the inside of the lock. No biggie, it had to be changed anyway. I don't have a key that opens it. I'm going to put the new glass in tomorrow. Figure I'll change the lock while the door is already apart.
  13. I broke it taking the door apart. Have to replace the window too
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