Vladislav

Looks like your work shop became more a paint shop at the recent times. All those endless brackets, levers and rods sure take amounts of job. Sounds reasonable to not mount the cab on the chassis if no possibility to put the truck inside for the winter. Would be a big step forward but doesn't make sence since you won't be able to work on it in cold.

My guess is the hydraulic hose to the rear axle got plugged due to its age. Inner walls penetrated some components from brake fluid during the years. It probably didn't even pass the fluid before you improved the pressure with the booster rebuild. Now the pressure is enough for the fluid to go to the cylinders but the release springs are not able to put it back. Been there a couple of times.

Try contacting Dutch Mack Fan Club. They Dutches have a bit of everything. And some of them parle Francias.

Read just 5 minutes ago. Really damn sad. Also been wondering on a reason of presence any real weapon on a movie set.

Bad thing I'm far away. I would gladly purchase the original chassis to make a truck I want some day. Seems the soft skin parts are easier to come by than an unbutchered tandem B-model chassis. BTW why don't you want to just swap in the E6 into the existing truck? Would be about the straight fit. And the main issue I expect is that spoken intercooler. Neway airride can be installed on the existing rails by removing Camelback stand and putting Neway brackets onto together with equalizer beams and Mack axles. And you can do it later as a separate step.

Congrats! Very promising condition and definitely one of my favorite models.

Thanks for the link. Looks like a very interesting place indeed.

Yup, as said above. We keep fingers crossed for you to complete the steal deal.

Matt, that Triplex definitely looks good suiting its place in the chassis. But... Are you really going to fit the engine TO the tranny? With that two disc clutch setup I would expect some dancing around along the deal.

To my current understanding the matter is avoidance to confess self disability. You have a truck, parked in a field and keep hopes "to fix it one day'. Days are passing by and nothing is done. We all familiar with that scenario. Than at a certain time we finally figure we will never fix the truck. And start trying to let it go. In many cases it's too late. In some cases it's already a widow's or kid's business. On the other hand the truck is our toy. And we do what ever we want to do with it.

Definitely by re-setting the governor

Big Rig Chrome Shop has vast variety of both chromed and SS hub caps. There are sizes and truck models mentioned in the descriptions (not for everything) but you should keep attention and double check the particular item type. Maybe even reasonable to order one cap and if it fits your hub order the rest. The costs are reasonable on my mind and the quality is fine.

Brocky, thank you for the leads up. It just didn't happen to me to hear about that place before. Not too close to NYC area looking at the map but would be interesting to visit according to your description. Bad thing with all those Covid limitations and Russia/US diplomatic wars I'm not sure I will be able to travel overseas once again soon. And from seeing the things as they are at the moment I'm even not sure I will be able ever. Nobody knows but I sure hope for the best.

I may be wrong but I think it was the time when Volvo switched to use MP engines and Volvo chassis. Actually a different truck with Mack cab. So a reason became to change the model index also.

For example here: https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/42108-different-superliner-hood/?tab=comments#comment-306688

Mack Australia used R-model cab along with R700 chassis to build Superliners. We discussed this subject a few times on here.

Very impressive and clean look.

Interesting piece of history. And I don't remember showing it up anywhere on the net. Freshely restored unit? Also I wonder what's interesting to see in that museum aside of it?

Interesting bit of the Mack history.

What a strange event?... Who would have thunk?... Nice looking Bullnose. I both like its type and the color. Thank you for fullfilling my request

I would admit one more point. While installation a man should find a center point of a steering gear. Any of those go left and right from a position they (a gear) are attached to the front wheels via pitman arm, drag link etc. But if that position is not the middle of the steering gear operation range you may achieve a situation when the wheels go say to left less than to right. Another issue is many gears are made a way they have zero free play only when at the center. So if you install a good condition unit with its central position off you would achieve excessive free play. That taken to account the installation procedure should be: install the gear with pitman arm and steering shaft off. Spin the input shaft (the steering column attaches to) all its way and count the revs. Divide by 2 and find the middle of the travel. Park the gear at that point. There could be a mark on the shaft end and the housing, worth to look for and check. Than... Put the wheels looking directly straight. If it's a truck or another heavy vehicle it's better to park it that way before the begin of repair. Ok, when your steering gear is at its center you set the steering wheel horizontally (or another central position) and attach steering column shaft to the gear. Than put the pitman arm to the gear. This way you have the steering wheel at the center, the gear at the center and the wheels straight. Getting deeper if you're not shure everything was set completelty correct you should check out if the pitman arm mark (if any presents) corellate with the corresponding shaft at the gear. And if it doesn't you should remove the drag link end off the arm and fit the arm onto the gear shaft by the mark. Than still having the wheels straight loose a clamp on the drag link and turn its threaded joint to correct the length for fitting the arm installed by the mark with the steering gear still at its center. And one more deeper stage. In many cases a steering gear has center marks at the ends of the both shafts - for the steering column and for the pitman arm. When one shaft is at the center (and a mark on its end indicates so) the other shaft must be at the mark also. And if you find out it is off its mark it means someone in the past reassembled the gear wrong. And you might be in trouble centering and even installing it on a truck.

Thanks for the overview! Looks like real nice T-shirt weather was treating you in Litiz.

Yup. We all like nice trucking looking pics!

Once again, many thanks! Two allen bolts were seen from the outside but by their look I supposed they would put the heater apart and had no relation to its fit in the block. Acting with an allen tool I was able to move them nearly half a turn by normal loosing direction - counter clockwise. After which they both got a stop but could spin relatively free in the range. It looked too untypical indeed and I pryed the heater body by its edge and got it off without much efforts. Now is the time to look for a correct plug. I could make a new one with a lathe but have no idea on the fit tightness. So seems better to purchase the original part. Bad thing it would take loooong.

Many thanks! Looks like they're there indeed. I'm hell bent for leather direction shop