Vladislav

The rears is definitely Timken bogie which I suggest could be a factory setup but the statement of all original Mack bumper to bumper doesn't sound 100% correct. Ok, it may be all original indeed but not all Mack. Also strange to see no pictures taken from the side. Would be interesting to learn the style of the rear wheels. Definitely she's a rare animal. Thanks for sharing the link.

If you're talking about the side and lower parts they are actually pieces of aluminium angle and seem easy to fabricate having a bender or order in a metal shop. The top bezel is a different and difficult story.

Have you found the rack itself moving free? If it's not stuck no stuck plungers are expected to take place. And the revs jump could only be a matter of the governor. Or oil coming into cylinders but it would continue running after shutting off the fuel.

Man, that thing is huge! I always take my hat off for people who restore steam locs. It's a summit of an old school tech and increadable state of art at the same time. Sometimes when someone visits my place and asks on how much labour may be involved into restoration of a truck I point out there's people who make up locomotives. Thanks for sharing. I hope you will update the thread with pictures once the project is completely finished and up to public.

Since your truck was made in Australia there wouldn't be much help from American guys on the subject. RW built in the US had different cab. And the cab on your truck is similar to a R-model cab used in the US and as how it looks to me from where I'm sitting Mack Australia used this style of a cab for all models built in the country. I mean R, RD, RW and Valueliner. Too possibly there were small nuances in the shape but generally Aussie cabs were the same. The main (and big) difference between US R-model and Superliner cabs was a cowl shape. R-model has top corners biased to follow the R hood curve. And the one for RW has square top corners, again to suit square RW hood. Mack Australia used the 1st style of the cab for both. And sorry I have no idea on it was different for early and later series Superliner or not. Judging by pictures posted on the net during 10+ years it appeared to me they were the same.

Yes, that's about that. My target was transmission swap so we removed both floors. But as I remember we did that partially. Took the screws off and than lifted the big floor a bit to access to the air lines. As long as I remember we didn't remove the treadle valve off the small floor when in the truck just took them off together. You need to pass the gear shift lever through the hole to get the big floor off (completely) and need space to do it and better two men to not scratch the dash etc. We did that 3 years ago and now I don't remember all the nuances. The screws were rusty and the floors either and if the memory serves well we took one floor up a bit and than the other and achieved the air lines. Something like that. All in all I remember it was relatively tight in the cab indeed and multiple air lines quite similar by the look but nothing extraordinar of a job to do. Some of the air lines can (and should?) be accessed from under the hood. The valve is visible if you look under the cab floor at the driver side from the engine compartment.

This truck was up for sale at some different place a while back. I saved a few pics from the ad and my files are dated as June 2014. It had a turbo removed at the time judging by the pic. Definitely an Allentown produced later series Cruiseliner.

The way of things is quite simple there. The floor conteins 2 removable parts. A larger one is at the right and a smaller at the left. The treadle valve is installed in the left one. Both panels attached to the main cab floor by a raw of screws. You probably would be good having only left (small) part removed. But may be wanting to take care of the larger one too if they both are rotted indeed. Both parts have simple shape and can be repaired by weld if the new parts cost is not friendly. So follow the advice Joey Mack gave to you. The valve has 9 or 10 or so air lines attached so there's a need to mark them. The seat remove would be of help no doubt but maybe it would be enough to get rid of only the driver's one.

Thanks for the figures. They bring some thoughts though. As I figured a plunger is not absolutely tight and does some leak back into the supply gallery. When a cam forces it up to make pressure it sure makes it but a small amount goes away. In dynamic it means the crack pressure gets achieved a bit later than if no leak absolutely. Amount of the leak is dependant to the pressure. So if you set higher numbers in a injector a plunger leaks more and it means the pressure crack gets later. What respectively means you get less actual injection advance. Taken that to account I would suggest Ambac and Bosch plungers have different tightness so the nozzles set different. And if you change the pump keeping the original injectors it would be wrong. A way may be to correct the pressure. As long as you go to Ambac and its injectors (Ambac nozzles) set higher I think it's possible to set Bosch nozzles to the higher pressure to work with Ambac pump. A nozzle only works better with higher Bars. But if you go from Ambac to Bosch you would need to lower the pressure setting. And that would be bad idea since a injector is supposed to spray under certain load. And if you set lower pressure it could loose spray quality.

Those mentioned and also including T2050 have even 0.60 OD. And they seem fine for a 300 Maxidyne but with 5.32 or so rears I belive.

Thanks the great! The build sheet for the truck mentioned 736GB259P10 injector assembly but I couldn't find the nozzle #. I suppose that is what you should put in yours if go with Ambac pump. But it seems to me no big difference could be found in injection and combustion if you use nozzles which were supposed for Bosch pump but operated with alternative Ambac unit. One more question from my side to complete my couriosity. Can't you check the manual for the injector crack pressure and maximum stroke amount for the pump calibration? This info would be enough for me to work out the pump and a set of injectors (I hope).

Now it seems the time is to me asking questions. I have a E6-350 4V in my R-model, made in the end of 1988 (1989 model year) and Ambac pump. Couldn't you tell me the part # of the injector nozzles mentioned in those tune up manuals? My pump tag tells 300 PLM450385A with Mack part # ?13GB5168P14. There's also a mentioning of 18 degrees so your info makes sence. Good way to check out leaks in the fuel supply system along with simple and efficient priming is use of electric fuel pump. I have a few taken off 90's years Mercedes cars which are handy to use because they have alu housing with 2 fittings (or just tubes) to put a rubber hose onto. Two terminals to attach wires and you connect them straight to a 12V battery. In many cases I just take an external battery to not hook up to the truck. Usually I use such pump for a test fit when I want to start up an engine which was out of operation for a long time. You can use hand prime as supposed to be done but it takes time and the prime pump may be bad or constant airing up may be present. What I do is just hook two hoses to the injection pump, one with electric pump put in series and the other one to the return fitting on the injection pump. Both hoses go into a jerrycan with diesel or even a plastic bottle. Last time when I dealt with that DM and found out the fuel filters messed up I didn't waste time and just put a car filter in series with the electric pump. When you power up the pump it brings fuel into the system in a matter of a few seconds with a raw of air bubbles coming into the can. Plastic bottle is even better for that reason since you can see all the air and dirt going from the injection. And if any leaky points get presence they show out immediately under positive pressure made by electric pump. I than make a try to crank the engine with the wires still on the battery and if it fires up successfully I that reconnect the fuel system to its normal setup. If the fitting is a straight bolt with cooper washers the latters seal the banjo around its cyrcle so the threads of the hole get inside them. And if a heli coil is used and it's not tight it would leak to inside the banjo making no issue. Figuring other possible reasons I met cracks where those small tubes come from the banjo barrel. Probably due to bending force during inaccurate removing of hoses. A friend of mine fought air in the system of his Mercedes car and ended up swapping that "banjo spider". Sure the cooper washers should be new or cooked up red hot prior the installation. If you have a good Ambac pump for the similar engine swap seems like reasonable solution. I dug up a couple of photos I made when removed pumps off two engines. The darker pic is E6-350 4V with Ambac and the brighter is EM6-300 4V after I took off a Robert Bosch unit on the DM. As you can see the engine side is the same. So more a matter of injection lines and other attachments.

Manure must be happy if it only could feel anything for being transported in that shiny food grade SS tank! The truck is an animal definitely. I also have a DMM. But turned out it's a project put on a back burner. I had to remove the cab to transport the truck in a closed trailer and it's still off the chassis for almost 7 years now. Hope to get fixing it some day. The specs are EM6-285 with T2060 Mack 6 speed and 44000 walking beams. It's a tandem not 3 axle as yours. Vlad

From what I learned about X107 they were 5th direct in the main box. And when that transmission gets high split added to the compound it becomes being T1070 10 speed. Or a 12 speed if the crawl gear added. I doubt they had different set of wheels in the main box as an option and if yes I'd too like to know about that.

...A friend of mine drove Mercedes G which leaved the assembly line in 1983. The truck (or should it be called a car?) was driven offroad quite extremely and regulary. It had both interwheel diffs fully lockable with hydraulic controls. Something of a kind of hydraulic clutch control in a car. The master cylinders were installed in the cab's floor with a knob to pull by hand and the service units were on the axles. You have two control lights in the dash which are wired to sensors (switches) in the service cylinders so you see if a lock is in. But only in a case the switch is Ok and the wires solid and the lamp is good and all that is not a must for a 35 yo rig. So the guy fought some deep snow or a clay fully locked and than went on a paved road to go home. His story was he covered nearly 10 km to the moment going something 80km/h and the truck once took aside for a whole one meter but continued to go straight. I don't remember how he count out the matter but the turn out was a hydraulic hose to the front axle diff lock. He just released the nipple and drained a bit of fluid after which the diff went free so he could continue the trip.

The matter of the swap was discussed not long ago but no exact facts were stated as I remember. More questions. Speaking the helicoil I think bango bolt tights up with a cooper washer against the housing so a coil repair wouldn't be a way for a leak. If that's a taper thread fitting (and I remember there was at least one of those in the housing) it's another story. Anyway if the pump goes to (expensive) rebuild I would definitely get rid of all housing imperfections. Mack could use two types of the pumps due to lack of supplys from one vendor involving another one. Or there might be another reason. To me it more seemed that pre-88 trucks had Ambac for the most cases and later production was equipped with Bosch. With some interference during 1987-1989 BTW there were also pumps made by third producent in 80's years. I'm not ready to say the brand right at the moment but one of such units lays on one of my shelves.

The key is you have the rears ONLY locked and the front is Ok. If I have understood you right.

As Terry said. And I doubt they used on anything lighter than 44000.

The condition seems very promising and that rust at the back panel is nothing, will go away just by paing prep work. E6-350 must be Econodyne I belive and 13 speed tranny proofs that. If it's a Maxidyne it would be EM6-300 coupled to 5,6,7 or 8 speed long steps gearbox (the most probably). Although the look of the fuel doesn't promize happiness it sounds strange you've got any throttle reaction while yard driving. Stuck plunger means stuck rack what further means no other plunger's turning and no change of fuel supply to the injectors. So you may be having issue of another kind. I would try making that injection line test as I described. A 5 minutes matter and you will more food for thought on further investigation. I'm glad you purchased the truck anyway. It has good chances to became a beauty (or a beast?) after getting some love.

Looks like a good quality panel. But also looks like quite extensive body work is ahead. Worth to double check with those who are supposed to make the weld on the labour cost matter. Forgot to say thanks for the show pics. Plenty of nice trucks and I was impressed seeing two Bighorns together at the same time even more than that darn sexy cucumber girl.

Thanks for guiding. It's something new to me, about a kind of a cucumber with batteries Swishy mentioned in his post.

Also you can drive the truck for a few meters or a bit longer with the cable off the speedo gauge but connected to the tranny. Actually holding its end in hand. It must show spinning when the truck moves.

No link there Tom. Only the girl choosing a cucumber. She's nice difinitely. I mean the F-model definitely.

You can put a cordless drill right into the speedometer head input. It must show speed. Try slow at first since you need to figure the direction. Speaking the drill revs required I had luck just putting a wooden stick a bit thicker than a match and spin it fast between two my fingers. The needle popped up to nearly 10-15 mph for half a second with that. No no oil pressure involved. Just all mechanical. Worm drive off the tranny output shaft.

I had been to that issue just a couple months back. Was bringing to life a DM of 1987. Also had idea to try getting it road worthy where it was parked to drive home by its own. Had to get rid of such plan after observed the truck in person and towed it. Time showed out it was right way to go. The first thing I noted disliking was short move of the governor lever where the starting control cable attaches. Tried to set the tension of the cable but still was doubtful on the correctness. After priming with fresh fuel and a few dosen of either I got the engine fired up and running with a few missings. My next step was a try to stop it by the lever and no luck with. I did what you did and had it stopped. After spinning the facts in my mind for a bit I figured there must be a plunger stuck not the rack itself. Or multiple plungers. So I released the injection lines at the pump sections and asked a helper to crank the engine with a starter. Fuel appeared from 4 fittings but #1 and #4 didn't show evidence of pressure in the lines. I opened the top cover on the governor and could get to some bracket that was attached to something that looked like an end of the rack. Tried to pry and hit with no luck. I had an old spare Robert Bosch pump on a shelf which I looked over and figured not easy to get inside of. Decided I could direct access a plunger if I remove the delivery valve holder (top fitting on the pump) and the valve. I have done it in the past to set the injection point and could see the plunger top looking into the hole. I needed a multi edged socket to get the holders off which I didn't have. Tried it barbarian way with long arm pliers but only had edges smashed, the fittings were set damn tight. I investigated the net and found out there were only 2 sizes of sockets for Bosch pumps and trucks used larger one. Bosch # was 0 986 611 274 which I crossed to CT-N724 some aftermarket tool. I got lucky purchasing the latter locally. It must have 34 edges and the smaller socket (for cars) has 32 (or 33?) Ok, washed clearly the surround of the delivery valve housing (the pump was still on the engine), drove it off and removed. Put in a pre-washed can I prepped for. Took the spring and than the valve stem and its seat off with tweezers (don't touch with fingers) and put into the same can and closed it. If you would happen to do the job use separate can for each valve not mixing parts of different sections. Sprayed a bit of diesel fuel into the hole using syringe. After I took a small brass stick (nearly 5mm OD and 50mm long), put it into the hole and managed its end onto the top of the plunger. Hit the stick end with a small hammer (washed its head prior for not dropping dirf off it). Could move the plunger down a little bit but not much. Put more diesel on it and asked a helper to turn the crank shaft by a socket tool until I saw the plunger went back up (and stuck there again). I tried to hit the plunger top more but couldn't get it free and had almost no luck with the other stuck one. So we removed the pump from the engine and put in a vise. After the supply pump was removed and I looked into the hole to see the cam shaft I found out its cams were made different than a common cam should look. I expected the cam to be high along nearly 1/4 of the shaft circle (like an engine cam shaft looks and those in injection pumps I saw before). But the one in Robert Bosch pump was made having 3/4 of its circle high and only 1/4 low where a plunger is able to go down. So turned out I tried to move the plunger when it was supported by the cam on the shaft. If I knew that I suppose I could make it free with the pump still on the engine. Ok, with the pump in a vise I hitted/elevated the plunger 3-4 times spilling diesel onto and got it travelling free. But that was the #4. The #1 didn't go even by the hammer. So I had to go harder way. First I approached it on the spare pump and seeing the desingn got back to the patient. The matter is the housing the delivery valve housing attaches to is a plunger barrel itself. It is fitted into the main pump aluminium housing and clamped by two nuts. Each barrel has 2 nuts so you see 6 pairs of clamping nuts at the top of the pump. If you remove the nuts you cam turn the barrel housing in the pump body and over the plunger at the same time. Turning it over and prying up at the same time you can pull it off. The plunger would stay in place than. But the issue is turning the barrel you change the point the plunger cuts off the supply hole in the barrel what means the beginning of injection. So if you fit the barrel back different you would change the stroke supply amount of the spoken section. In my case I didn't have plans for seriouse use of the truck in the distant future and could bring the pump to a shop for calibration later. So I scratched a mark both on the barrel housing side and the pump aluminium housing, removed the nuts and turned the barrel in the housing hitting it to the "ear" the mounting stud goes through. It first turned together with the plunger but after I both turned and pryed up with a screwdriver the plunger got its own movement. Adding diesel drops and hits upon the plunger top with the brass stick I finally got it free. Pressed down the barrel housing back to its place and aligned my marks. Having a bit of experience with calibrating pumps I suppose I wouldn't need to put the particular one on a bench if going to use the truck for a hobby after what I did to it. Everyday work is sure another story. But that second part of my tale is a really hard case. The truck was parked for no less than 5 or 6 years and as I could see it operated with no fuel filters at all (!!!) before got parked. So my guess you may be "lucky" following the 1st half of the story scenario. Vlad