Vladislav

Those washers were stamped steel dishes with rubber pads (also washers) put below. The steel ones are usually reusable or could be purchased from a hardware shop. I didn't see a straight way to get the rubbers and ended up buying screws for attaching metal sheets for roofing (on a house) and separated rubber washers off their steel washers.

Sounds like you've got an issue with shifter rails in the main box top cover. There are 3 rails with shift forks connected to each one. One rail and fork for 2nd and 3rd speed, one for 4th and 5th and one for 1st and Reverse. The rails have brackets at the top with recesses. When you move your shift lever its bottom end goes in those recesses. When the tranny is in neutral the recesses lined up so you can move the lever left to right. When you move the lever front (or backwards) it forces the rail it occures in a ditch of to go back (or forward). The rail moves on together with its fork sliding a sliding clutch into a gear and you have a gear shifted. If you in that position try moving the shift lever to a side it wouldn't go since the bottom end of the lever isn't against a ditch in another rail. So you can't shift another gear while you already have one shifted in. What you have now seems like you have the ditches in the rails not aligned. So your lever got locked in 1-R rail and can't get into a neighbouring other rail. You need to remove the cab floor and take off the shifter tower. A small stamped rectangular cover with the shift lever sticking off. Just drive the 4 bolts off and pull the lever. You will see the matter through that opening but I suppose fixing the issue may require to dismount the whole top cover of the main box. Nothing special to do that though excepting cleaning the mounting surfaces and applying silicone sealer or a new gasket.

That's one of the reasons people order restoration or do the job themself. And also a reason buying a ready vehicle is in the most cases cheaper than to build it. I think the truth is somewhere in the middle and if you're wise enough you'd be Ok.

I always count he served as a Navy not as intelligence...

Keith, many thanks for the sizes and especially for the numbers. I made a quick look and it appeared like your info helped a lot to narrow down the search.

I hope someone has the figures handy or just in head. What is a part# for Mack E6-350 4V injector nozzle and its pressure setting? My build sheet points out 736GB259P10 nozzle and holder but I can't track the nozzle #. Close alternatives would also work in my case if any. And the same interst on EM-6 300 4V.

I also like the idea of checking the hub position by observing relation of the drum to the shoes. The spacers/washers were definitely used to make correct hub fit. Too probably there were different styles of hubs used with that axle housing and there was a need of spacers in some wariations. I once also met something like your situation when changed bearings on a MH-model. The axles were Mack on airride so I supposed they were 38000lbs. The hubs were spokes to fit 24.5 rims with Mack script cast on them. The bearings were 582/572 with 563/567 as it supposed to be for Mack axle of the spoken axle rating. But the seal was NOT 4-1/2 x 5-3/4 as it typically is (and should be) but 4-5/8x6. There were spacer sleeves pressed onto the spindle shoulder to increase the OD from 4-1/2 and I would expect that as a home made conversion. But the hubs were bored to 6 inch not 5-3/4. I too doubt someone machined the hubs for larger OD seals but who knows.

That's how it seems to me either. Suggestion could be it was marketing thing also. When a new model was introduced the manufacturer wanted attention of potential buyers. So put something new in the line of things people got already used to.

Interesting. In Europe Renault offered only 390, 430, 470, than 440 and 480 hp E7's. 390, 430 and 470 (I belive) all had in-line injection pump. And 440 with 480 were PLD section E-Tech.

That tank setup is indeed an interesting set of pieces to tinker with. A wide field to apply engeneering of different kinds. Wonder what the tanks used to cool off the intercoolers? Did they have a large water tank too? Or a radiator to cool the water as some vehicles utilizes? That crack in the base sucks. I have no idea on how the part is avalible from Mack and how costy but one of my thoughts is on custom casting. Not really difficult shape to reproduce on my mind and too possibly you could play with properties of the alloy to improve the performance. I doubt Mack used space technologies for a road truck engine part. Another simple (but no doubt poor) idea is weld the crack. I had a funny case when I once drove in to a muffler making shop for some reason and found out they offered exhaust manifold welds. I got surprized and asked a guy on could they fix a cast iron part. He looked under the hood and said no problem just 500 Rubles (nearly $20 those days). I said Ok and was going to look on what he would do. The guy came back with a wire welder and applied a 5 cm of seam. Said that's all done. To my honest question of would that work (???) he answered they gave 12 month guarantee. I gave him 500 and went in doubts. Funny thing the weld got cracked after a year and two weeks... What really surprized me than was that sure really poor fix worked for that long on a daily running vehicle with an engine which manifolds had tendency to crack

Thanks. I do belive 14 inch would work fine for 445's. But have worries on good fit of 385 on them. If you have a minute check out the blue truck. No rush with that.

Welcome to BMT! Plenty of "nuts", I mean truck nuts are here. I personally have a R-model for fun. Cruise it from time to time when the weather's good and don't see anything wrong with that. Also I'm pretty sure a man should not be selfish. If you have fun it's good when you also give some fun to your neighbours. Ha-ha Vlad

The 5.55 is a figure I also came along. Those are installed in the DMM I accuired a few years back. Unfortunately I haven't been able to do much with the truck. The cab was removed for transportation (not by me) ans some damage to air lines and other small stuff was done. Also the bab itself needs some fix and paint so it seems as a shame to put it back on the chassis in a shape it currently is in. The truck is equipped with EM6-285 and T2060 which has the same hi range ratios as T2070 or T2080. BTW DMM has 445/65 at the front and I could found wide Budd wheels to fit the same type of tyres to the rears. So gonna be a hot looking unit when it's done. A question - do you have an idea on the width of the front rims both of your RD and DM have? I'm curious on what size would work for 385/65? It's very common tyre size in Euroope for the most trailers which have 3 axles at the rear and ride on 6 such wheels. Also many tractors have them at the steer axle. But they all mounts on "Budd" style wheels. I type it this way since European wheels have different bolt pattern, actually larger stud circle so those wheels don't seem correctly called Budds. Ok, no matter, those wheels are 11.75 wide and I belive American wheels of that width don't exist.

Unfortunately no. That turbo base is asymmetrical in 3 direction. Has offset to a side and to the rear with turbo flange biased. So ways are a custom weld new part or to find a used one off a Mack. I will add pics of the parts taken off the engine. Was going to but found out I forgot to take them off my phone. What kind of intercoolers that tank setup utilizes? Are they water cooled or air ventilated by a tip turbine or other way?

Very interesting plan. Weight distribution will be sufficiently improved I suppose. Good luck on the build up.

Thanks for pointing the pressure change timing advance. Good thing there's known prcatice in doing that. I knew the matter but didn't know the exact aproach. Also I didn't keep in mind the E9 injection pressure. Suspected it was a 130 bar ballpark so the 300 figure appeared doubtful. 50 bar increase doesn't seem really extremal and adding 2 degrees to the injection advance would smooth the things up I belive. A side question - what are you going to do with a "turbo base" - a section of the stock exhaust manifold the turbo attaches to? I see the tank setup has its original part there and you removed the stock piece. The reason I ask (may be interested to someone) is Renault engine has the turbo mounted backwards. You have intake at the right and exhaust at the left. Once I first noted that I thought the base was just tured over but when I got the parts in my hands I found that it was a different part and you need one off a Mack to correctly fit the engine in a Mack. No strong need for that at the moment and a tip on where to look for instead of the actual item would either work for me.

Not a big issue with those top threads damaged since the delivery valve holders are easy to swap. I just recieved the socket to drive them off today. Going to free up a plunger in Bosch pump on DM truck I bought last week. The holders are tight torqued since there's lapped surface at their bottom side to fit against the delivery valve seats. Not a gasket as some older pumps had or copper washers I once swapped in smaller Bosch pump on my Mercedes OM606 engine. Also I had been to a diesel parts shop the other weekend and saw those holders new aftermarket. They're nearly $4 apiece and looked good. I was going to grab a couple just for spares but deeper investigation showed the outer thread was of larger OD. I could remachine them to fit but saw no sence since I had a complete spare pump for parts. Honestly I have big attraction to chrome plate a set of those holders together with a few other small pieces of the pump.

I have a T2070 laying in a shop. Seems nothing extraordinar to put it in there. I even have offset shift lever off a DM for it. That tranny has 4th direct but also 0.60 over which would improve highway performance sufficiently. Two speeds of the low range would work no worse than the Lo in the 6-speed at my suggestion. So the main issue is the time you need to put your hands on those bolts and nuts.

Shakes happen by bumps down any road and if you keep the track it means you're settled well in the saddle. Thanks for continue discussing the subject.

Paul, any outsourcing is one more weak link. So as closer you put as more chances you would grab it back. Easy fix for the uploading space is opening My Attachments (sorry to drill that same hole once again) and click Sort by file size. Too probably you will see a few large attachments you made many years ago paying no attention to the size since it didn't matter at that time. Deleting just 2 or 3 of 1Mb files would already allow you to upload 30-40 pics resized to 70-100Kb. So you will be Ok for no less that a few weeks posting. Deleting files from threads doesn't take time and uploading tiny images takes a little. An issue could be if you don't have an image in your computer so have to first download it from the forum. That would take some time indeed. But on the other hand it's a good deal since if you found you lost some picture you download it back from the site.

I reached that same issue at a certain time in the past. After I figured what happened I made some clean up and being Ok since. If you open your profile you can see My Attachments folder. There are all images and video you ever uploaded on the site with their size and a name of the thread they were posted in. Usually they listed by the time posted but there are othe sort options including the size. I checked what I had of heavy files and found a lot of old pics I loaded in the past in their original size. 2-3Kb and so. I than opened those old threads and edited my posts. Just deleted a few old and not really interesting images but didn't want to butcher many old discussions especially with many likes to the pictures posted. So I found those files in my computer, resized them and uploaded in place of big old pics which I deleted at the same time. Took me 2 or 3 evenings to tinker and I freed very sufficient amount of uploading space. From my observation a picture of nearly 100kb looks quite good on a screen. So not much need uploading heavier files. Many folks would think to themselves that's a kind of extremely routine job and I was not an excemption. But after I started I found it very interesting since you open very old posts which move you back in time and bring memories.

James, the specs of the truck make me cry. When I first saw it and looked below the chassis the tranny seemed to me as T100 series so I (a stupid) got expecting it as 10 or 12 speed. But when I took it home and wire brushed the stamping it turned out X107A what meant the old 6-speed with the top direct. Brushed the carrier and the mark of 5.32 showed up. What the hell! I just even don't want to figure the top speed of that beast riding on 11.00R20 rears... Probably something like 75-80 km/h or 45-50MPH. The chassis is a 3/8 double frame in very good condition (was covered with the van body the most of its life) and I belive 20,000 front axle judging by the hub style. Camelback rears of 44,000 and EM6-300 4V engine under the hood. The Turks had a few tractors based on the same chassis, just a bit shorter and towed low boy trailers. I suppose my truck was originally specified for a similar kind of job but turned out converted into a service vehicle.

From what you tell it's some sliding clutch and a gear wheel the clutch mates to. Having either no forward and reverse my suggestion is it's not the compound gearbox where the tranny shifts into Lo OR Reverse. If so it means that's the splitter which is assembled in the front portion of the tranny and provides torque to the rest of the gears. The cost of the fix is a gear ($400?) and a sliding clutch ($150?) plus removing the tranny and taking it apart. Personally I never got into a 12 speed and my suggestions are based on the theory. Too probably someone else will give you more exact advices and correct my statements if I'm wrong.

Very interesting and no doubt worthy. Thanks. But I still have a look at the things from another angle. My idea is not to compete with trucks but with cars. Actually no trucks in the country to compete with. So fun seems doing surprizing driving in the street. Something of a kind nobody expect from a truck. This way the idea of having top RPM's of 4000 looks as the basic point. Maybe I'm wrong and have open mind for arguments. So at this point I wonder what engine parts should I have to spin the engine that high? The tranny I'm going to couple to the E9 is not T2180. I grabbed T1070 (or TXTLT ?) by a lucky chance and it seems to me that's a perfect unit for my task. You can split it when want to cruise at a certain speed but can shift it through large steps with no splitting. Seems like not a trouble to having high RPM's limit. Another option I have and would go with if have no 12 speed is T2070. It also has long shifts and easy to drive in a tight traffic. I currently have such transmission installed in my R-model. It doesn't suit Econodyne engine really fine but actually the only trouble I have with it is a large hole between the direct and OD. Besides that it's pretty easy driving setup. You can start from 2nd high (a bit lower that 1st high in T2180 or T2090), shift it into 3rd and than into direct. This allows you to drive up to nearly 80km/h comfortable and up to 100km/h or 60MPH if you want. So common drive (sure bobtail) can be provided making just 2 shifts. And currently I have the pump set up to 1800RPM and the engine is 350 HP in-line not V8. If I could find a T2180 unit I wouldn't use it in any of my trucks excepting if I plan moving heavy machinery on a low boy. Instead of that I would couple the rear section of T2180 (with the splitter) to T2060/2070/2080 main box. This would bring me long steps for a city or hot rodding and possibility to split in the cases you need it. Actually it would make a kind of T2070 twelve speed in T200 family. IDK why Mack didn't produce such setup. Probably because of different tendency in the trucking industy at the time. 300 bar injectors set to? Sounds very high and that would move the ignition point far backwards along the crank angle due to the plungers leak. What is the standard E9 injector crack pressure? Maybe I'm too panic and 300 bar doesn't offset much? Intersting point on the valve springs shims. Never heard about. I was told of tungsten washers holding the springs but never saw in real. Looks like not a trouble to make if any reason to. Good points on the clutch and the turbo. Is turbo just a pay and get deal or a custom job? Swapping plungers or a cam in a pump is not a trouble overhere. There's a guy who makes such works. Sure having a test bench etc. Personally I had one Mack pump disassembled, sandblasted (!) and painted the body, than reassembled and even calibrated (to some grade) with no bench. The engine was on a stand when I worked with the pump. So I put 2 more marks on the flywheel to see OT for not only 1st but 2nd, 3rd etc cylinders and set plunger closing angles. Also you can see the moment a plunger opens the input hole which means the angle of ending the injection. So you can set the stroke delivery by that observation. Not actual dynamical delivery but at least geometrical. Unfortunately I didn't know the condition of the pump (it was 70+ yo at the time) so brang it to the shop and put on a bench anyway. The guy corrected 2 plungers adding stroke length and checked the maximum delivery which was found set wrong (20% less than the spec). But he definitely got surprized from what he observed at the bench after hearing what I told I made to the pump Special thanks for the pump type tips. I will do my research on the Iveco pump. Too probably it's possible to find such unit here and use its plungers (and the cam shaft?) in E9 pump housing but so far I'm not sure I will need 13mm barrels.

That's cool. I'm glad to hear of anybody enjoying my posts. Mentioning Ukraine I personally don't like the way of things my country currently gets into relating that country but I would like to keep away from political discussions. Sorry no good photos of the wrecker excepting the posted ones. I described the most I could about the truck in the post above.