Vladislav

Looks like a good quality panel. But also looks like quite extensive body work is ahead. Worth to double check with those who are supposed to make the weld on the labour cost matter. Forgot to say thanks for the show pics. Plenty of nice trucks and I was impressed seeing two Bighorns together at the same time even more than that darn sexy cucumber girl.

Thanks for guiding. It's something new to me, about a kind of a cucumber with batteries Swishy mentioned in his post.

Also you can drive the truck for a few meters or a bit longer with the cable off the speedo gauge but connected to the tranny. Actually holding its end in hand. It must show spinning when the truck moves.

No link there Tom. Only the girl choosing a cucumber. She's nice difinitely. I mean the F-model definitely.

You can put a cordless drill right into the speedometer head input. It must show speed. Try slow at first since you need to figure the direction. Speaking the drill revs required I had luck just putting a wooden stick a bit thicker than a match and spin it fast between two my fingers. The needle popped up to nearly 10-15 mph for half a second with that. No no oil pressure involved. Just all mechanical. Worm drive off the tranny output shaft.

I had been to that issue just a couple months back. Was bringing to life a DM of 1987. Also had idea to try getting it road worthy where it was parked to drive home by its own. Had to get rid of such plan after observed the truck in person and towed it. Time showed out it was right way to go. The first thing I noted disliking was short move of the governor lever where the starting control cable attaches. Tried to set the tension of the cable but still was doubtful on the correctness. After priming with fresh fuel and a few dosen of either I got the engine fired up and running with a few missings. My next step was a try to stop it by the lever and no luck with. I did what you did and had it stopped. After spinning the facts in my mind for a bit I figured there must be a plunger stuck not the rack itself. Or multiple plungers. So I released the injection lines at the pump sections and asked a helper to crank the engine with a starter. Fuel appeared from 4 fittings but #1 and #4 didn't show evidence of pressure in the lines. I opened the top cover on the governor and could get to some bracket that was attached to something that looked like an end of the rack. Tried to pry and hit with no luck. I had an old spare Robert Bosch pump on a shelf which I looked over and figured not easy to get inside of. Decided I could direct access a plunger if I remove the delivery valve holder (top fitting on the pump) and the valve. I have done it in the past to set the injection point and could see the plunger top looking into the hole. I needed a multi edged socket to get the holders off which I didn't have. Tried it barbarian way with long arm pliers but only had edges smashed, the fittings were set damn tight. I investigated the net and found out there were only 2 sizes of sockets for Bosch pumps and trucks used larger one. Bosch # was 0 986 611 274 which I crossed to CT-N724 some aftermarket tool. I got lucky purchasing the latter locally. It must have 34 edges and the smaller socket (for cars) has 32 (or 33?) Ok, washed clearly the surround of the delivery valve housing (the pump was still on the engine), drove it off and removed. Put in a pre-washed can I prepped for. Took the spring and than the valve stem and its seat off with tweezers (don't touch with fingers) and put into the same can and closed it. If you would happen to do the job use separate can for each valve not mixing parts of different sections. Sprayed a bit of diesel fuel into the hole using syringe. After I took a small brass stick (nearly 5mm OD and 50mm long), put it into the hole and managed its end onto the top of the plunger. Hit the stick end with a small hammer (washed its head prior for not dropping dirf off it). Could move the plunger down a little bit but not much. Put more diesel on it and asked a helper to turn the crank shaft by a socket tool until I saw the plunger went back up (and stuck there again). I tried to hit the plunger top more but couldn't get it free and had almost no luck with the other stuck one. So we removed the pump from the engine and put in a vise. After the supply pump was removed and I looked into the hole to see the cam shaft I found out its cams were made different than a common cam should look. I expected the cam to be high along nearly 1/4 of the shaft circle (like an engine cam shaft looks and those in injection pumps I saw before). But the one in Robert Bosch pump was made having 3/4 of its circle high and only 1/4 low where a plunger is able to go down. So turned out I tried to move the plunger when it was supported by the cam on the shaft. If I knew that I suppose I could make it free with the pump still on the engine. Ok, with the pump in a vise I hitted/elevated the plunger 3-4 times spilling diesel onto and got it travelling free. But that was the #4. The #1 didn't go even by the hammer. So I had to go harder way. First I approached it on the spare pump and seeing the desingn got back to the patient. The matter is the housing the delivery valve housing attaches to is a plunger barrel itself. It is fitted into the main pump aluminium housing and clamped by two nuts. Each barrel has 2 nuts so you see 6 pairs of clamping nuts at the top of the pump. If you remove the nuts you cam turn the barrel housing in the pump body and over the plunger at the same time. Turning it over and prying up at the same time you can pull it off. The plunger would stay in place than. But the issue is turning the barrel you change the point the plunger cuts off the supply hole in the barrel what means the beginning of injection. So if you fit the barrel back different you would change the stroke supply amount of the spoken section. In my case I didn't have plans for seriouse use of the truck in the distant future and could bring the pump to a shop for calibration later. So I scratched a mark both on the barrel housing side and the pump aluminium housing, removed the nuts and turned the barrel in the housing hitting it to the "ear" the mounting stud goes through. It first turned together with the plunger but after I both turned and pryed up with a screwdriver the plunger got its own movement. Adding diesel drops and hits upon the plunger top with the brass stick I finally got it free. Pressed down the barrel housing back to its place and aligned my marks. Having a bit of experience with calibrating pumps I suppose I wouldn't need to put the particular one on a bench if going to use the truck for a hobby after what I did to it. Everyday work is sure another story. But that second part of my tale is a really hard case. The truck was parked for no less than 5 or 6 years and as I could see it operated with no fuel filters at all (!!!) before got parked. So my guess you may be "lucky" following the 1st half of the story scenario. Vlad

Looks like your work shop became more a paint shop at the recent times. All those endless brackets, levers and rods sure take amounts of job. Sounds reasonable to not mount the cab on the chassis if no possibility to put the truck inside for the winter. Would be a big step forward but doesn't make sence since you won't be able to work on it in cold.

My guess is the hydraulic hose to the rear axle got plugged due to its age. Inner walls penetrated some components from brake fluid during the years. It probably didn't even pass the fluid before you improved the pressure with the booster rebuild. Now the pressure is enough for the fluid to go to the cylinders but the release springs are not able to put it back. Been there a couple of times.

Try contacting Dutch Mack Fan Club. They Dutches have a bit of everything. And some of them parle Francias.

Read just 5 minutes ago. Really damn sad. Also been wondering on a reason of presence any real weapon on a movie set.

Bad thing I'm far away. I would gladly purchase the original chassis to make a truck I want some day. Seems the soft skin parts are easier to come by than an unbutchered tandem B-model chassis. BTW why don't you want to just swap in the E6 into the existing truck? Would be about the straight fit. And the main issue I expect is that spoken intercooler. Neway airride can be installed on the existing rails by removing Camelback stand and putting Neway brackets onto together with equalizer beams and Mack axles. And you can do it later as a separate step.

Congrats! Very promising condition and definitely one of my favorite models.

Thanks for the link. Looks like a very interesting place indeed.

Yup, as said above. We keep fingers crossed for you to complete the steal deal.

Matt, that Triplex definitely looks good suiting its place in the chassis. But... Are you really going to fit the engine TO the tranny? With that two disc clutch setup I would expect some dancing around along the deal.

To my current understanding the matter is avoidance to confess self disability. You have a truck, parked in a field and keep hopes "to fix it one day'. Days are passing by and nothing is done. We all familiar with that scenario. Than at a certain time we finally figure we will never fix the truck. And start trying to let it go. In many cases it's too late. In some cases it's already a widow's or kid's business. On the other hand the truck is our toy. And we do what ever we want to do with it.

Definitely by re-setting the governor

Big Rig Chrome Shop has vast variety of both chromed and SS hub caps. There are sizes and truck models mentioned in the descriptions (not for everything) but you should keep attention and double check the particular item type. Maybe even reasonable to order one cap and if it fits your hub order the rest. The costs are reasonable on my mind and the quality is fine.

Brocky, thank you for the leads up. It just didn't happen to me to hear about that place before. Not too close to NYC area looking at the map but would be interesting to visit according to your description. Bad thing with all those Covid limitations and Russia/US diplomatic wars I'm not sure I will be able to travel overseas once again soon. And from seeing the things as they are at the moment I'm even not sure I will be able ever. Nobody knows but I sure hope for the best.

I may be wrong but I think it was the time when Volvo switched to use MP engines and Volvo chassis. Actually a different truck with Mack cab. So a reason became to change the model index also.

For example here: https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/42108-different-superliner-hood/?tab=comments#comment-306688

Mack Australia used R-model cab along with R700 chassis to build Superliners. We discussed this subject a few times on here.

Very impressive and clean look.

Interesting piece of history. And I don't remember showing it up anywhere on the net. Freshely restored unit? Also I wonder what's interesting to see in that museum aside of it?

Interesting bit of the Mack history.