Vladislav

In such case I usually put some antifreeze in the upper radiator hose to fill it up getting the upper side of thermostat sunk. Than put the hose on radiator. When you start the engine that above amount of the fluid conducts heat and supplys it to thermostat so it opens. Usually when you observe the temp gauge during the first heat cycle the temp grows up and gets a little bit higher than normal and than drops down to Ok level in half a minute.

The front cover attachment (and the gasket) is the same. But actual covers may have differences. Depending on E7 modification there could be additional drillings or vice versa. I looked at photos of alu front covers removed from Renault Magnums with E7 (can't state the style of pump they had but doubly mechanical) and the covers seemed very similar to my alu E6 one but different. For example there was different fitment (or location) of the zero angle flag to set the crank. I'm sure I could use E7 front cover with some modifying if have no other options and have an original item for reference. Also there were different styles of E6 covers. They were steel and alu and also lower bolt holes were the same OD as upper ones on some engines and some had them thicker with larger threads in the block and corresponding holes in the cover. Those are exactly the bolts to attach the front mount you're figuring about. The front crank seal of E6 and E7 engines is different. Not ready to tell right now but IIRC that's about its ID. So the cranck hub must (or could) be different. Also I saw covers where the seal was pressed straight in the cover or there was removable flange you fit the seal in and than attach it to the cover body by 6 bolts. The seals ODs were different in that case. All in all it seems to me the swap you're going towards can be done and relatively easy. Just paying attention to every step and locating or remachining parts which wouldn't suit.

To me it looks like someone wanted to improve the look. At a certain time I had an idea to make something similar and attach Superliner grill at the front

Former owner of my R-model did such thing in the past. He just told me and I never saw the event myself. He said he put some fractures or so, probably used hex nuts between the peanuts ends and the outer cam. Blocked the divider that way and got the truck running. Probably for not too short distance and too probably with a semitrailer hooked. You need to remove a yoke and the front cover off the divider housing to get access to the spot. But would you want to get there or not seems as a big matter to consider.

Really sad to see. Hope it could be fixed just swapping the parts we see damaged on the pic. Chromed bumper would probably be a difficult to locate item.

Yup. Here you go. E6 or E7 mechanical has it at the same location.

It's definitely not a Mack motor. Vlad

Dig up the wiki section of the site. There're diagrams with sizes you're looking for.

Definitely Timken bogie and judging by the color of the diffs it could have military origin.

I got to my E6 block today. It layed on a pair of wooden beams so a truble to look over its bottom side. The pic is what was seen from the flywheel end. So those are #7 and #6 main bearing seats. As you can see there's a passage for oil bored so oil travels behind the bearing shells. I remembered you had the issue with cam oil supply and the passages were organized through #2 and #5 mains. I couldn't easily see those seats but I put my hand there and touched #5 surface by fingers. It also had that same kind of oli channel as you can see in the #7 on my pic.

All neat pictures. And the squirrel portraight is an art. I also like that big Mack. A scene of the kind you get wanting to come over the place, clean the weeds off and start tinkering with the machine imagining on how it would look brang back to life. Thanks for the report Tom.

It's a very good point to investigate. I could look at E6-350 block since I currently have one apart in my shop. But I can do it tomorrow.

I would like to have it but expect shipping to NJ would kill the deal.

Pretty interesting and sounded like making history. Just wonder what was the original reason to lift up the cab on V8 Valueliners?

Later E9's had two piece pistons also. At least in Europe used in 560 hp Renaults.

Hope he's doing fine and would take a minute in his tight multy-priority shedule to sign up and say hello.

Bolts were overtorqued when the rod was installed and broke down at a certain time. Or opposit situation they were loose and got gone. After either of the scenario the axle got ability to spin over its mounting bushings by acceleration or brake torque. The rod hit the crossmember and got the shape you see. U-joints kept its company by the same reason. Of possible traces to proof my suggestion I would look over the crossmember surface for punch marks or scratches made by the rod since it too probably made multiple hits. Also I expect one of the bolt holes worn to one side since two bolts were doubtly ruined together. One of them hold on for a bit of time before to get bend broken. Vlad

The right pic is awesome! Say hello to Zina. There's also idea. Couldn't you ocassionally take the red KW for a weekend drive? It would be a bit of fun and memories and also the way to update the girl in a car photo collection. I remember about your B-model mixer sometimes.

I would temporary install electric fuel pump into the fuel supply line or even attach a hose with such a pump and sunk into a jerrycan. Straight jumpering electric terminals takes all air and so from the primary circuit in less than half a minute. Than I would crank with the pump still on. If it's a matter of fuel supply or air the engine would start quite soon. If not your way is to investigate assembly mistakes. Such as injection timing, cam shaft timing, valves adjustment etc.

Congrats on the well deserved life turn! Hope you will enjoy spending time either in Virginia or Florida. I'm pretty sure you would like to do plenty of things aside of chaining steel rolls and tarping dumpsters. And as the guys mentioned above we all hope for your camera to be kept well greased, cleaned and operational.

Are those thanks specially made for fertillizer? Liquid?

Great stuff! Probably would fit my dash too. But since my truck was military Mack used metal as less flameable material. This way I'm going to reproduce this.

A DM hood would not fit a DMM for sure.

Cool trucks, thanks for sharing. The color of that superdog is my favorite for the model.

Congrats on one more big step done! As Bob said it was a pleasure to follow your progress and thanks for taking time to share it. Those who make restorations or other big projects know you need bunch of time doing work and arranging solutions on every questional step but also extra time to make good photos and typing descriptions if you post the job.