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About John3406

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    Truck Nut

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  1. I have had that people before on big cams an n14s but when that happened i dropped oil pressure. This engine still has good oil pressure but i will definitely pull the coolers and check. Thanks
  2. Yeah you're right i didn't even think about the injectors getting oil from that line. I think about the only thing it can be is a cam brg turned enough to almost block the hole off. Probably a matter of time before it turns more and completely blocks it
  3. Any big cam 4 experts here? I have a bc4 stc engine. For about a year now the jake on the front head didnt work. So today i decide to look into it. Got barely enough oil for the rockers and certainly not enough for the jakes. Only thing i can think of is spun cam bearing but cant think it would run a year like that. Only other thing maybe the injectors on number 1 and 2 are leaking to much oil and not enough left to supply the jake. Any ideas?
  4. You're right. Dealer had all the pieces and will deliver to shop tomorrow
  5. I already found 2 small leaks. One on the water line going to water filter housing and the jumper tube from head to head was leaking a little fuel. I probably will retorque the heads. Not sure if its really necessary to loosen one at a time tho. Or just run thru them
  6. That would be normal operation for me😉 run hard but not abused if you know what i mean
  7. How do you guys recommend break in. On other engines i have done i just run em like normal just dont leave them idle to much for awhile.
  8. Well i finally got everything all bolted on today. Radiator etc. Fired it up . It sounds really good. I only ran it about 15 to 20 minutes. Wondering if i need to set it a 5 deg or leave it at 7.5. I want to get it out and drive it and haul a couple loads but its below zero temps here.
  9. The cam to crank gear is keyed. The gear on the cam that drives the injection pump is not keyed. So since i put a new cam in it i had to remove injection pump gear so the cam would slide out. Then without a key on grive gear it could be off a half tooth or full tooth. No way to tell. That is why i had to retime injection pump
  10. Yes it was definitely off because when i pressed the gear on the cam with no key. I think it was about 20 deg. So then i got it to 7 or 7.5. I couldn't read the valve cover tag so hopefully 7 or 7.5 is good enough. If not ill know when i fire it
  11. Thats the pin i used. I had one in a p7100 pump sitting on the shelf
  12. My thinking is the way i did it gets it "close enough to run" . The tool probably gets it more precise. I have no problem buying the tool if i need it
  13. I agree the timing is critical. I just never used a light like that before. I suppose i can try to find one. Im not sure how the vmac is different but on alot of engines when we start turning up the fuel to them we advanced the timing some too. That probably wouldn't work on a vmac. It almost reminds mo of the old cat 3406 peec . Half mechanical and half electronic. I threw several of those in the trash and made them all mechanical. Then they would run strong
  14. I just have a 5-101 overhaul book. It says to use the light to time it which i dont have. I didnt take the pump off but i did have to take the gear off to get the cam out. I know deere used the p8500 on some engines and we never used a light to time them. I guess i dont see why the way i timed it wont work but im probably wrong. Wouldn't be the first time😉
  15. Not that i can see. I dont see how having timing marks on the front would work anyway considering the balancer has no key on the hub. Yeah i was surprised about that too when i had it off. The crank is slotted for key but the balancer hub is smooth. I have a e7 book but it just says to use the timing light tool
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