Vladislav

Ok, got what you meant. The difference between the plate you're going to fab and the Budd wheel center is the latter is dished. That makes it stronger for bending. Could be compensated by the material thickness indeed. And making third wheels it wouldn't be an issue on my mind since it would take only 1/3 of the load in theory (and I suppose no more than 1/2 in practice)

Great stuff you have and welcome to the forum! My guess it may be difficult to sell everything as a lot in your particular case. All the trucks you have are projects and each of them would require sufficient amount of labour and time. On the other hand they're worthy and I'm sure someone may be seriousely interested in one or two by his choice. Purchasing more is big additional investment which doesn't make sence if a person is going to restore one truck. So maybe it worth time to figure a cost for each of the trucks and offer them for sale separately. The "trucks for sale" section on this forum takes people's attention and it wouldn't seem any wrong to double you ad with additional ads there. Vlad

What they were originally for? I saw a guy on ebay selling magnets he made cutting chain attachment ear off a Mack key hanger. But those had enamel on and the cost turned out more than $4.00

I don't like your idea of using those flat rings to fit Budd wheels onto Dayton hubs. My guess is they will crack really soon. You may use something like that when the distance between two points of the force applied (in your case between the spoke stud and Budd mounting stud) is short. Otherwise you've got really large banding torque in the part. I would go another way and find hubs to fit Budd wheels. Mack axles made a way they used both Dayton and Budd hub on a similar spindle so doesn't seem difficult to convert (from where I'm sitting). My DMM had stud piloted Budd hubs from the factory and I located 4 13.50 (or so) steel wheels to mount 445/65R22.5 super singles on and fit to the rears. Speaking the differentials the cam type in the axles was an option and by my observations a seldom used one in that era. Usually interwheel diffs are of a common gear style. The interaxle unit is always (if Mack axles) of a cam style and distributes torque. It may be equipped with air operated complete lock down and wouldn't distribute anything when locked just forcing both axles spinning together. It was an option for the most of models but I doubt many DMM's left the factory without it.

I doubt you will find what you are looking for. There may be a chance Mack museum would supply you with some info but they definitely have production information and not ready blueprints suitable to make a scale model. Also a big question is of how highly detailed model you're going to make and in which scale. The chassis is similar to a Superliner and we have its basic measurements in the wiki section. The cab is of relatively simple shape so you can use photos scaling them down. Also being there where you are at I wouldn't miss a chance and get to a real truck with a measure band and take multiple basic sizes to do photo recounts more accurate. If you need a few particular dimentions feel free to PM me and I will measaure one of my MH's.

Welcome to the forum! There are definitely some Macks in GB judging by net pictures. And many looks nicely restored. Vlad

Someone was selling brand new air motors for a F-model on ebay a few months back. Something in between of $100 and $200 range. I even bought one for use in a R-model. From my observations the general design was similar and difference was in the style of the part which mates to the linkage. Seemed reworkable so I grabbed it. Haven't got to the installation yet so no detailed review.

83 may be mechanical indeed and the things would be as said in the post above. If its electrical as later MH's were the sensor is in the flywheel housing and easily seen from the outside. Similar sensor for the speedo at the tranny output flange or a cable if the speedo is mechanical.

Happy Thanksgiving American friends!

Matt, did you test run the engine? Its color looks faded relating to what you posted in the past. Sure kidding. You definitely seem prepaired to have some fun on the turkey day

Does that B-model have a short hood the same as B-67 has? Definitely looks shorter than a B-61.

Great looking truck for sure! And definitely rare spec. Congratulations on the purchase! To me it seems of no much reason to remove the mixer setup since it's already restored and looks nice. The same opinion on the engine swap. What you currently have is OHV Thermodyne Mack gasser which is quite powerful and reliable. I don't say it has pretty fuel milage but using the truck for attending shows the cost of about any seriouse conversion would never offset the economy achieved. And if you want to tow a trailer and have a diesel seems easier to just buy one more B61 already a tractor. Sure the points are just my opinion and you will choose your way to go and enjoy. A bit of advice is not to start from the mixer unit remove and so on but fixing small things over the truck keeping it the way it is and running. So you would be able to drive it for a bit and get some fun and also achieve much more info and experience to consider its further faith. Vlad

They used to be avalible at Watt's Mack, the owner of this web-site. But seem currently out of stock. Worth to make a call and check out. http://www.wattstruckcenter.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_67&product_id=60

Even difficult to belive it was made by men and absolutely unbelivable it was restored

My guess is 4V engine utilizes different crank position to set the valves. That's why that double pointer was designed. 2V is a straight simple engine basically END673 and I see no reason you can't set the valve gaps when the crank is at TC.

BTW the dampener off my truck is that 404GB470 judging by a mark stamped on it. R688 with E6 4V made in 1988. The pointer is a 2 edged one like on the photo above.

That's one really interesting idea with just checking out of balance. To me it seems a wheel balancer is not even needed for as long as a modern car's wheel requires dynamic balansing (it's colled that way here at least). A wheel's width is sufficient so you put weights at both sides of it. But if you want to balance a bycicle's wheel all you need is its axle and some common weights. I think something like that would be enough to just check the dampener. So I'm going to ask a lathe man to fabricate a couple of small "pancakes" to hold the dampener in between with a ball bearing in the middle. Adding any adhesive or magnetic weights to the dampener's outer diameter would tell how far it's off balance.

Wow! Thanks. It took me nearly 20 minutes yesterday evening to find a balanser. It was one from PAI though. I don't mean I found it locally, still in the States. It could be delivered to my place for reasonable cost but long in time. The item cost is expected to be US $450-500. I can afford it but there's plenty of other things I may use that worth for. Interesting that PAI states the same balanser should be used on both 2V and 4V E6's along with many other engines. The pics are from some NZ parts list which conteins Mack numbers but its basic source is a PAI parts list I belive.

Thanks for the tip. The truck is for play with and maximum expected milage is something like 3-4K km a year if I make a jorney with. Another point is about the only possible option on purchasing a new dampener overhere is PAI. I will check out the cost for more thoughts. Kept hopes to rich up with one off a Renault but now it seems like no way.

It doesn't leak. But I can see fat spot on its surface near the seam. No presence of any real fluid. Just a small darker area on an overall dry surface. Makes me scratching my head. The engine ran before I took it apart and didn't show any excessive vibration. But the milage was unkown and definitely huge.

The frame rail stampings were the same about the front end shape. The rail heigth was different for R600 standart rail and R700. That wouldn't be of a trouble for the conversion though. Cab mounts were located further to the back and they're probaly a different part than on R600. No doubt the rear cab mount crossmember location and the steering shaft length were different. Also a shift lever in the tranny needs to me modified or swapped. So to me it seems like such conversion is possible with a need of R700 hood and impressive amount of labour. A bit of addition. The said above concerns trucks made in the US. The brown land R-model engeneering had its own especiality. But in general the matter of the subject is the same.

E7 has a different crank shaft than E6 so the dampener may be different indeed. If so my interest quits at this point since I was going to swap my E6 dampener with a used E7 part. Here locally plenty of Renault Magnum engines are up for sale and many parted out. There were mechanical (?) 390hp and 430hp units along with 440 and 470 E-tech's. My actual dampener has a very small oily spot on its surface. Nearly 25 mm/1 inch long and 4 times narrower. Idk if that's crytical for a hobby truck or not but would like to eliminate the risk since I'm going to sandblast and paint it. Would be a shame to invest labour in a weak part.

Glenn, we wish you speedy and full recovery. That deciese is a nothing to fool with thing. Brain cells have ability to recover and regenerate. But they do it when you train them. So keep up and the things will be better.

Very noteworthy point. I would like to learn the same subject comparing E6-4V and E7 mechanical dampeners.