Jump to content

Vladislav

BMT Benefactor
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    7,842

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    76

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Vladislav

  1. Vladislav
    That oil pressure point makes sence to me. Actually what would you worry about lugging an engine? I think combustion process goes quite well at 1000RPM (sure not 100RPM). To me the trouble seems as insufficient oil pressure at low revs. There could be effect of high stess applied to cylinder walls or the crank group. But seems more a matter of the torque itself, not dependant to the revs. If oil pressure have meaning there must be different capacity pumps used in Maxidyne engines or a different pump drive ratio. It's easy to recognize and I belive must be a well known fact. I just never concerned it so far.
  2. Vladislav
    Mine had a crawl through opening. The boot was held with a steel strip attached by self cutting screws put through it all over the opening. Both to the cab and sleeper walls.
  3. Vladislav
    Funny thing you can fit a wheel of any modern American truck onto this hub and it would fit right up. Ok, it woulf fit correct if it's a stud piloted style.
  4. Vladislav
    Lanova used common valves. At least factory description of the engine design doesn't describe anything extraordinar. There was a point on the material used for valve lifting rods which had about zero temperature expansion but I don't remember any valves especiality. Unfortunately no comments on"rees" valves too. Welcome to the site!
  5. Vladislav
    The chassis looks nice! Glad to see you're making good progress during the years. Is the engine a kind of 2nd generation AC engine? i know they were of cylinders and a head cast as one part. And yours looks newer.
  6. Vladislav
    Very nice! Looks like just a few steps to go and she's ready for the show season!
  7. Vladislav
    Welcome to the forum! The truck looks very promising. Vlad
  8. Vladislav
    It seemed to me from working on 1945 Mack chassis they primered brown all or the most of separate parts. And when the chassis was rivited together and different brackets and attachments put on they painted it all over into the final color. With cooper tubing etc already in place. So all those hidden marks you discovered seem used as the factory internal id's. Pre-assembly markings or part numbers. No matter Mack stamped the rails or a vendor they should be id'ed coming onto the assembly line. Interesting, thanks for sharing.
  9. Vladislav
    Happy New 2022!
  10. Vladislav
    They are sexy. And seamless.
  11. Vladislav
    Nice truck! Welcome to the forum and keep on progress! Vlad
  12. Vladislav
    FBA83098-F03B-4E22-8BA5-F3B4E1936118.jpeg
    Good luck on the progress! L's are my favorites.
  13. Vladislav
    Looks like a R/Superliner floor panel to me. But could be for a U/DM, I'm not almost sure at the moment. The difference is the threadle valve hole location so not difficult for visual check. These things have value since tend to rot. Someone was even looking for one on here a few moons back. I'd grab it for some bucks if have less headache with shipping.
  14. Vladislav
    https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/66390-hatcity-rip/
  15. Vladislav
    Cool looking dog! Welcome to BMT!
  16. Vladislav
    Also a question is which model your truck is. If it's CH or CX (if a Mack) they have straight rails front to rear and you are able to order a full length newly made channels. Much more job removing the engine and the cab but you would get a truck with chassis of the same or even higher performance than it was originally leaving the factory. Older Macks with "fashioned" front end of the rails don't allow such approach so welding turns out as about the only option. The rails themself aren't extremely expensive. But the amount of job may differ.
  17. Vladislav
    To me it's difficult to forget them
  18. Vladislav
    Many were also hot riveted in the early days
  19. Vladislav
    It's possible someone already rebuilt your chassis in the past and used rails which didn't mutch the size well enough. If the issue was done by rust the shelves of the rails must be slightly bent relating to the horizont. If so I would try to forse them down into the normal position hitting by sledgehammer along the edge or using hydraulic what's more preferrably.
  20. Vladislav
    Sounds like impressive job done and a lot of new experience. Glad you got it fixed. Also thanks for mentioning all those underwater stones involved.
  21. Vladislav
    Yup. As said above.
  22. Vladislav
    You can use a 1:1 adapter for the start. If you have it handy or able to purchase cheap. Than test driving the truck you relate speedo reading with GPS or another true source. If any difference is found (I'm pretty sure it would) you divide the actual speed by the speedo figure and the result is the adapter ratio you need for correction.
  23. Vladislav
    The diagram shows all you need to compare the weight of two frames. Sorry no help with weight of suspensions from my side. Vlad
  24. Vladislav
    Thanks for sharing. Many interesting and nicely done jobs.
  25. Vladislav
    `Interesting. Your suggestion makes sence. Actually those are easy to reproduce casting led or tin into gyps or even clay if you want them more. So far I haven't figured any reason I would need one though

BigMackTrucks.com

BigMackTrucks.com is a support forum for antique, classic and modern Mack Trucks! The forum is owned and maintained by Watt's Truck Center, Inc. an independent, full service Mack dealer. The forums are not affiliated with Mack Trucks, Inc.

Our Vendors and Advertisers

Thank you for your support!

Mack Related Links

Popular links

BMT Forum Logo

HTML tutorial
×
×
  • Create New...