Vladislav

To my understanding runout is a difference between max and min distance from the crankshaft center. Actually you need the basic size of that circle specified to be almost accurate. Say 24.098 +-0.010". But Mack specified just the runout. Probably in practice its fugure would be much bigger if the housing is worn really bed. Or anything else. Mack engeneers had something on their mind when established the check procedure. E6 and earlier dowel pins I saw were all cylindrical. I can't boast I saw really many Mack engines though. But kept my attention on readings on here for years. What I learned is what Terry posted above. This way Glenn's comment is really interesting pointing out he during the years of his experience seldom saw the runout issues and (never?) oversized dowel pins. So seems the runout procedure is mostly aimed to check on seriouse damage of the housing. Honestly I still can't figure out what kind of damage loosy tranny bolts did to the housing. If they damaged threads they went into you would swap the flywheel housing. And if they didn't damage them I see no reason the bolts were getting loose again after some milage. Another seemed issue is the tranny centering flange (rim) wear. That would affect the centering but actually of the spoken input shaft. And I don't understand how that may affect the bolt tightness.

I checked out Wiki recently and found many files were gone and links didn't work. At the same time many files (which mostly were saved as jpg images) were Ok. Overall there was plenty of useful info collected there and a sad fact about a half of it is lost. Would be nice to restore the content but seems it's doubtly possible without attention and efforts from the administration or moderators.

Ughh... I can't imagine a few things. First, how are you going to acces the middle (2nd) wheel nuts to remove it when needed? Second, you definitely should weld reinforcing ribs to the inside of that new plate to increase its bending stiffness. I'd put them off the center hole to the rim circle. The way the sun rays used to be painted by a kid. Six ribs at least, and with their outer ends welded to the wheel rim. And you definitely need to do that BEFORE you apply any welds attaching the adapter plate to the wheel. Ok, my second thought - if I was going to make such the design my way would (probably) be cutting a center off another Budd wheel and weld IT into the 2nd wheel instead of your custom adapter plate. Actually making a wheel with two centers. It definitely would be much tougher than flat adapter you're going to use. But any way the original center of the 2nd wheel gets much higher stress with the 3rd wheel added in relation to its normal operation carrying load applied to the 2nd wheel only. Your actual idea gives me a guess you are a "practice man" and prefere checking things made of metal. Would be interesting to learn how your custom setup work on a real truck. Anyway good luck on the project!

Joey, those readings Joe gave to us seemed accurate and with a little bit of offset from the specs. So my first guess was to tinker with the dowel pins (or leave as is since the run out was not extremely huge). But in fact we center the flywheel housing to get the tranny shaft centered which is based in the tranny (bell) housing. And if we try to be accurate within 0.008" figure it worth to make measurements of the bel housing run out. i honestly can't imagine how such a job could be done since we should use the tranny input shaft as the center. And it sure has plenty of play in its bearing. Something like a special pivot tool you install in the input shaft bore in the housing is needed on my mind. Otherwise all those rocket science tolerances over flywheel housing alining mean no more than only a half of the story.

Finally took time to read all the thread start to end. Really liked that volumemetric mixer principal. I'm familiar with concrete works and see that design can cover plenty of small specific needs. How far high can that bend elevator supply concrete? Nice job was done to the frame too. Speaking the rear seal I'd take a watch type gauge and check the crank shaft journal for excessive play. Also the flywheel housing may be missaligned (not concentric with the shaft) Having any of these two issues will turn installation of a new seal into waste of time. Good luck on putting the truck into service.

Does this superdog run novadays? Really cool picture. Someone must be happy catching the truck on a road with so good point of view. Thanks for sharing, I now too doubt I would be able to step on the Brown land myself in the distant future.

And the engine in the original talk was a boat application. My guess is if you have water all around you some also may circulate over exhaust manifold. I'm not familiar with marine engine engineering though.

If so the matter is clear to me. Never put a wrench on a 237. Thanks Glenn.

One thing I haven't figured out is how that assembly holds in place? I don't see any clamp or a brace. Were those "compression" rings supposed to lock the tubes by just tension?

That's probably because the seller read this thread and figured your father is a seriouse potential buyer

In Iran probably...

I remember seeing a youtube movie of how a man was making piston rings. Those were of a simple square shape, almost as on your tubes. The way was really simple. The guy had a piece of cast iron pipe or so (since the most piston rings are made of cast iron), put the pipe in a lathe and cut a ring of the size he needed exactly (as compressed to the place). Than made a cut, put something (steel rod?) between the ends expanding the ring after which heated it up with a small torch. Getting red hot the ring failed off the rod loosing its springness but got it back right after a minute. I was going to try doing the same but the plan as usually went on a back burner. Sure may be just a movie but seemed real and also not difficult to make a try repeating.

Renault didn't have such the thingy either. Same as in a US truck, integrated into the timing cover.

Wonder what actually B66 was? B67 gasser?

Hope you're able to leave your lovely shop earlier today and cut off a bit of time to add especiality to the day. Best birthday wishes! Many more to come!

Books tell original NO was 102 inches wide. She can't be much wider at the moment.

Looked quite complete when I saw it in one known place in CT in 2018. The cab is sure not factory since there was an open style military cab. Also front bumper was modifyed and wooden cargo body gone. But would be a cool truck if put the original style cab (which you would definitely have to fabricate) or one off an L-model maybe and just keep it a tractor. One of carzy ideas which popped up in my excited brain when I saw it was to make a replica of experimental Mack NQ. Looked damn impressive with a 5th wheel and a C-cab which seemed even easier to make than the military one (ask me how I know).

Now it looks like it was possible to install (or remove) those shims with tranny in place. Loosening all the bolts and than taking off one at a time and putting back with a shim. Would be interesting to learn how Fort Wayne guys calculate what you need of shims to add with a particular flywheel, disc and pressure plate.

Very interesting, thanks for clarification guys. We know some applications where friction materials work in oil such as motorbike clutches or clutches in hydromechanical automatic transmissions. This way it seems quite possible to do the same for a small part in a big truck

Welcome to BMT! Nice looking old R-model. And looks like the truck has plenty of potential. Wish you good luck on bringing it into working order. Also would be cool if you not limit your activities with just making it road worthy but also find resources to improve the look. This way you may please lovers of old Macks and also jobs you're going to do will be done with pride. Dash panels you're looking for is relatively easy assembling stuff. If I were you I'd start looking for a set of parts over junk yards. Preferraby still installed on a truck. Of what I saw on the pics you posted in another thread you would need a steel channel which goes from the left door sill to the right one. There's a piece of angle steel or so installed there at the moment since some previouse owner needed something to put parking brake knobs into. But factory dash wouldn't fit on it. Also there used to be a heater box which installs right below the dash. R-model was made the way the heater is a separate part so you can assemble all the dash without and put it later on. Vlad

Should friction surface of a clutch brake be greased??

All injection lines are metric. I found myself about almost shocked when discovered that both delivery valve housings and injectors had metric threads on Lanova engine made by Mack in 1945! The pump was made by American Bosch though as it was written on its tag. END673, 237 etc all had metric connections at the pumps and injectors. I'm not almost sure on the thread size where the lines go into the head housing on E6, E7 and E9. But my bet is they're also of German origin.

My guess is if you use Swishy's trailer as a chassis and build something similar in Barbie style it may work out as quite comfortable accomodations. On the other hand that tiny home on the pictures is a finished object ready for living and travel so a person who wants something like that may be lucky just bying it and go make his dreams real.