Vladislav

Thanks for the tip. I count me as a puppy welder so far. Only play 3 or 4 years with a wire welder. And from time to time, way far from a everyday job. Trucks have thicker skins than cars so easier to put body seams with no overlap. And you can also be 'braver' with a hammer. Green Mercedes in the photos is 1mm steel. Macks go smoother. And sorry to load up the thread with off-topic stuff. Subject related though.

Love those little patches with no overlap. When you have the spots ground off the part gets back it its very original condition. Bad thing is when plenty of weld is required and the sheet is thin. Hammering back to the shape could be a trouble or require professionalizm. And I'm not a professional with that

All is Keith said. 17 digit international standard VIN became about 1980 (I think different countries put it in service at different times and some haven't done that at all). All US made Macks have VIN starting from 1M... since 1 means US and M means... yes, it means Mack nothing else. Canada stamped 2M... Pre-1980 chassis numbers represened model and serial number starting from 1001 for each model. The most trucks of the era had a chassis number stamped into the frame rail. Different models used different locations. R and RD had marking at the right rail behind the wheel. I saw two locations, further to the front as on the picture and further back to the rear spring hanger. Some trucks don't have the stamping though. I kept my attention to the matter and figured it could take place when a complete rail swap was done. On the other hand I saw relatively many Macks with no stamping so seemed like the factory was "forgetting" to mark chassis from time to time. Doubtful suggestion but I don't have anything better. in fact I have no idea on how many trucks on avarage were treated for a set of new OEM rails to be swapped during the lifetime. Vlad

General way of mind overhere is the same as on your coast. Or even worse. Some folks of newer generation got access to really big money. You know when a person has no experience dealing with lots of cash it doesn't turn out nice. So general tendency is to consume over than others could consume. Actually there's no culture of consume or it's just too young. There are some exceptions though but the most you meet is plenty of money and no mind or (pretty common in the two recent decades) no money but no intend to do job since you may cover your needs by what you already have. Or adding a few coins by stealing something. Overall actual cost of life is not really high here. The most people who used to work hard or just got to a "warm place" already have accomodations, a car, many travel to a sea coast once a year etc. Oil sells high and people here only boast they get nothing from what the government gets for oil. Actually those export $$$ go into internal consumption, straight way or making circles. Main issue I see the income comes into consumption and not into development. Straight ways are always simplier.

Sad stories guys. I noted many times that in your society(es) a statement works that if some thing is your property you may do what ever you want to with it. In my neighbourhoods the things go a bit different. In fact the most cases turn out almost the same. But people's mind set slightly different. I once put a note on this matter in some (ocassional) thread but it didn't take any attention. On my mind when a person gets an ownership of anything he automatically obtains responsibility of certain kind or grade. Nobody would argue that when someone drives a car he's responsible for any damage he may give to the surround. No matter he owns it at the time. It's just a sample. When we own an old rig it's a part of our history. And as long as we enjoy historical things we should care about the thing we have. And if someone else would do the same we may keep alot. I sure don't declare everyone MUST do things which are not prescribed by law. But if we just keep that idea somewhere in a back corner of our mind the grade of losses may be lower.

Sorry to see the trucks became in such poor shape due to age and outside storage. At the same time I very appreciate your approach to offer them for sale on here. It's definitely better to give someone a chance to get a truck or a part off it before they go a scrap route. Vlad

EY was one of 4 Thermodyne engines Mack newly represented in 1938. There were 4 gassers of 510, 672 and 707 ci and one Diesel with Lanova combustion chamber and 519 ci. displacement. I have a truck made in 1944 with original to it EY engine. It's even EY-11... Just don't remember the last two digits at the moment. The place you found the stamping is correct.

If the stamping is EY it means the engine is 707 Mack gasser.

By the look of the cast iron banjo's they're 44000 the most probably.

Chances to sell these axles too depend on the diff ratio.

They seem being not avalible for a while. I hunted one in 2013 and could purchase a good used take off from Global Truck Traders in NH. Than one more from another cool place in upstate NY

I went through such a story in the past. Obtained good result but the amount of the efforts involved doesn't seem very pleasurant now. The bores in the block were of a standard size and the pistons went poor as in your case. I was lucky purchasing a set of NOS pistons but they were STD either. The block had dry liners and I could remove them in a press. Was going to use pre-cast tubings for fabrication of new liners but got no luck due to the size of my liners. I could only get shorter or wider tubings. Ended up purchasing custom cast tubes with further machining, pressing into the place and reboring-honing. All was described here: As you can see it wasn't the easiest way to resolve the problem. Now having that experience I would try another option. There are shops which machine new pistons of forged aluminium, mostly for race cars. Their performances are much higher than old truck engines had and tolerances too. So seems I better ordered 6 new pistons milled of solid alu and made them already oversized. Than bored the original liners in the block and found compression rings to fit the size.

That's Reyco suspension judging from what can bee seen in the photos.

Looking your pics I dont see a reason you need new pistons. Cylinders relining is too probably on the way and suitable compression rings chosen by the size. When you recondition the liners you just bore new ones to get required gap to the existing pistons. There may be another way of ordering new custom made pistons already oversized to rebore the block. If you find yourself lucky finding a NOS set of oversized pistons and rings for them that's the most straight and correct way. Those flathead Mack engines were of multiple models and of different displacements. Yours is probably EN354 of 354 ci. But this point definitely needs determination since you should start from it in your search. Vlad

Would be cool if you point out where the truck is located and add a couple of pics to represent the look. Vlad

Honestly I would take the existing seals off their places and measure them and the mating parts. Than go to Stemco.com and find modern hub seals which suit your hubs. Speaking front axle my guess is you need 4"x5,131"x5/8 (or nearly) oil seal. My 1945 L-model Mack has these seals in the front axle and your truck is very similar. Mack part # from 1945 parts list is M-88AX-110. I had luck finding new seals of that size and later found out they were also used in a 1988 R-model axle. You may try to find cross reference to the numbers you have on the net but my experience was of no result with old Mack part numbers.

TRD-37 duplex tranny in my 1945 military Mack has compound stick at the right of the main one. And it has two positions - direct and over. With neutral in between. Over shifts backwards. Overall the tranny looks very close to a TRD-72 and its family and the main difference is inside concerning the 1st gear design. So I guess the compound stick at the right could have had common use in B-models at certain times.

I also see your post of much interest. Plenty of mechanical experience. Still haven't put that crank balancer of a wheel balansing stand. But found a guy who's ready to experiment (and has the stand). I'm not in a hurry on that since the engine is in pieces yet.

My guess is your truth is there. Actually I'm way far from being a firetruck expert. There's plenty of guys on the forum who know those matters better than palms of their hands. They just habitate the firetrucks section of the site the most as it seems to me.

I hope no one would blame me for use "his" picture in the post to explane the matter of question. All the pics were shared on the net at a certain time and many on here. I have some photos I made myself but those are large in size so I'd need time to copy and resize them to post in the thread. I point out once more that the trucks which don't have horizontal bars on the grill were the most probably firetrucks originally. Or just the grill was swapped. But many firetrucks also had special front bumper you can see on some conversions.

The truck you are looking the info on originally was a Type-75 firetruck which were built in late 30's and through 40's I belive. Could pull more accurate data from a subject-specific book if you need. Basically it was a E-model Mack cab and chassis. I'm not sure on the particular E model (they differed by multiple types regarding to weight ratings) but the most probably it used EH chassis. My guess the reason the model was not a E-something but Type-75 was the trucks were made by Mack as complete firetrucks already. So the model was established basing on the pump capacity as Mack did for firetrucks and not the way commercial chassis were named. Some amounts of those Type-75's were produced during the WW2 and supplied to USAF and also went overseas by Lend-Lease if I'm not wrong. If you look at the pics below the overall appearance of a EH-model and that Type-75 is about almost the same. But there's one (at least) special part which may point you that a truck was a firetruck when it left the factory - slightly different design of the grill. Commercial trucks had horizontal bars in it and firetrucks had plane net with just a framing around. Seems like many firetrucks were saved but lost their fire bodies at some point. Vlad

Funny. As the first thought it seems like the bleed from the relay was made to indicate the parking brakes were not applied But actually an interesting point to not worry about the relay's operation.

Ok, now it seems that all is clear. Sorry to stir the pot on a subject that had no direct relation to your original issues. But we better should use correct terminology to understand each other correctly. BTW the part # for that 6-pole junction block is 71MR403P6 and it crosses to PAI MJB-4385.

Thank you for improving my linguistic skills ones more, gentlemen! In this particular case I figured it worth better investigation (for me to learn the lesson essentially) so made a bit of Google search. I figured from there that buss bar (bus bar also looks correct) and a junction block are not almost the same matter. Definitely both are a bar with a line of terminals. But buss bar is a solid metal bar with multiple connectors. So my understanding is it's for connecting multiple wires to the same potential providing minimal resistance between the terminals. This way it can't be used to connect contacts of different circuits and seldom used in automotive products (and that's why I never met the term). A junction block has every terminal electrically insulated from the others so its function is different. Please correct me if I'm wrong since that's how I understood the subject but never used the term in practice before. My dad likes to joke that a person who tends to teach doesn't know the matter himself in many cases. And this time I'm just in a half of a step to be such the person

Keith, many thanks for detailed and systemized description of that reversing valve operation. I remember many talks on here concerning troubleshooting in the rack limiting setup. My running R has the system unhoocked and there's black smoke if you try accelerating a bit earlier on revs than you should. I could collect a few relay valves from different engine leftovers to play with but haven't started yet. One thing I did was opening one valve (by grinding off its body) in attempt to fabricate a new housing made of cooper or SS to look bright. But all I got to was a broken rubber diapragm found in the valve. So the quest is to be continued and the info above is going to be of much help.