Vladislav

Need an advice. Some while back I started planning interior rebuild on my R and initiated some jobs having spare elements of the dash etc. Tinkering with partly cracked headliner console I reinforsed it with steel plates on the inner side. By my original idea those were purposed to support a radio at the stock location. But further thoughts moved me to organize a slot to put big Cobra CB at the left above the driver side and make a second slot at the passenger side for a common radio/CD. I don't like lissening to radio when driving so would let a passenger to play waves. But keeping this solution in my mind for a while I became less sure on the perfection of the idea putting CB above the driver seat. The mic cord seems potentially hanging right in front the driver's nose or so. Taking this I strted looking for different locations. Suppopse Cobra would look nice being attached right on the center of the dash. But in this case it might attract too much of attention from the outside and I don't want anybody in my cab trying to pull it off and run with. Making a hole in the dash insert plate might be a good idea but it looks like there's too much of stuff behind the dash to allow whole body of the CB to go in. Hanging CB to the bottom of the heater unit wouldn't give good access to the controls. So I'd like to hear meanings of folks who were experienced using Cobra's or other CB's in a R/RW/DM.

Hoh! The world conteins so many places you have never been to.

Looks VERY clean.

Is there Bethlehem steel plant at the background of the pic?

And there were also R690. Not sure on the engine, should be EM7.

RW613 had Mack engine. RW with Cummins were RW633

Thanks for the pics. Love the scenaries.

Best wishes!

I doubt Macungie printed Venecuella tags and put them onto the doors before shipping out the kits. Wonder what was meant as EE6 engine? Econodyne instead of EM6 Maxidyne?

Those ANCO references make sence. I investigated a source of stainless wiper blades for my R-model with air drive. Found out they were avalible from Anco. Ordered a pair from evil bay and purchased almost the same style ones as were on the truck. And those were too probably there from the factory. Original blades also had "Anco" stamped on the body parts. Checked out for the part#, don't have it handy at the moment. Can find later if required.

Looks like a good spot for a dance party

A very nice truck to look at. Probably would be nice also to do that sitting in a chair at your yard and observing the truck at the same location

Nice thing! And probably handy to have a crane by. I suppose there's correlation indeed. But more to how many jumps in and out the cab you do during a day. One of my 1988 R's has such alu step worn through at the corner the same way.

Best B-day wishes!

By chanse I have both front axle and transfer case Marmon-Hrringtone made off 1991 RD. Can't tell the ratio right at the moment but the rears were 5.73. Too suppose my location would give frustrations to a person who's looking for such setup at West side of Athlantic.

Bob, what Carl said is almost correct. But things are more complicated a lil bit. I had to learn them just about a year back when I poured a slab, or how I should call it if it was a floor of the future 2nd floor of the building and the top of the garage at the same time. The day we poured the weather was fine. About +10 Celsias, well above the freezing. All went smooth, we got 4 mixer trucks off through a truck-mounted pump. I didn't order antyfreeze additive since there was no need. But later in the evening when dark came I found out a small pool on the ground covered with ice. That got me worry and I found one grade below zero Celsias on my window temp. The next day light snow layed on the groung and on the slab also. The trouble was you couldn't cover the concrete with anything because you can't step on it because it was still soft. After 24 hours!! Than there was one interesting view. The plate had two longitutional reinforsments on its inner (lower) side. So it was thicher there. And on the 2nd day in the morning I saw the snow melted by two strips. Almost where the reinforcements were. I poited it was just a little below freezing, about it. And the snow went off completely in a couple of hours. But what I saw was exactly the exhaust warm of concrete setting reaction. In a couple of days the slab got hard enough to walk on. And I covered it with canvas and poly film. And started reading the theory about the same time. What I was learned is concrete sets only when there's water in it. And it needs good temp for the reaction. If water freezes concrete doesn't set at all. And if it hasn't set enough to get about 30% of its normal strength the water inside it cracks out its structure what follows sufficient drop of strength in the future. So you should protect from freezing. But that's not all. If you keep it unfrozen but still at the temp just a little above the freezing point it sets too slow. And doesn't achieve those 30% of strength to be able to freeze up with no risk. So too important to keep a slab warm for the first 5-7 days. I got lucky with my structure. Checked it out in the spring and found the concrete steel-solid. But as long as temps kept about freezing for some weeks what followed by real drop of temps I put a wooden stove inside the garage and kept it room temp warm for a month. I should admit it was a kind of nervous month.

And there was Australian RB as well. Even with early and later hoods. The first one looks quite nice on my mind.

I suppose Aussie Valueliners utilized standard R-model frames. As all other Aussie Macks of those years did. RB's had different chassis style. So the hood hinge attachments would be different. Here's RB from my side. It was catched up by someone's camera at Russia's North. As I learned from my research the truck dissapeared some years ago.

Personally I wouldn't choose a model of a power plant for my hobby truck basing on fuel savings. I'd like an engine which seems rare or interesting/unique of its design, or has its special heritage. This is my approach. Or if I'm not much into technical aspects of collecting trucks and more enjoy just their look I'd go with a common, simple and easy to maintan model of the engine. I'm pretty sure fuel you use driving a hooby thing is a relatively small loss of money relating to other matters along it.

That's about what I had with my E6-350 R-model bobtailing for nearly 1500 km. T2090 0.71 OD tranny with 5.02 rears on 11R24.5. Here we use a different style of counting consumption. How many liters you burn passing each 100 km. So I had to do some math.

I think you won't have troubles pouring at 30 but waiting with no end is a way out of line. Now it seems the shop really turns out as "a long awaited shop".

What did that F originally mean? Firetruck?

I suppse nobody could pass this LTL without breath hold. Even some women.

Have a Great Day! Keep fire under control

Too interesting, thanks for the article. Nice to know there are filks, oh no, blokes who love the trucks they work and feel pride doing their job. Unfortunately here in Russia you really seldom can see a truck or another industry equipment which carry signifishiant art work on. Usually it is airbrush pictures (became popular nearly 20 years back) or just strips or some special paint scheme a truck was just imported used already having it on. And if you try to find a man who's specialization is hand-lettering or stripping trucks overhere people would look at you and ask "Do such ones exist?"