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1968 f 685st cab over


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Posted (edited)

Mack F-model F685st cab over semi truck

-$3,500 obo

-5 speed mack manual transmission

- mack 672 turbo diesel

-mack rear axles

-golden bull dog

-has minor floor rust on parts of the cab but is solid

-starts and runs good,

-drives and stops but I wouldn't say it is ready to put to work

-22.5 tires tube less 1 piece rims (11r22.5 rear 385/65/22.5 floats on the front) Hold air but are old.

-cracks in passenger side windshield but comes with a replacement window

-comes with all new brake cans to update to the spring over style parking brakes.

-comes with a set of canister style air cleaners

-cab tilt works as it should

-new water pump

-new alternator

-new oil hoses

-new fuel hoses

-new radiator hoses

-new rear wheel bearings, races and seals

-comes with new front bearings, races and seals.

-new cab marker lights and clearance lights

-new manual slack adjusters

-new brake and back up lights

-new belts

-new oil in engine, transmission, axles

-I bought it from down in Missouri in 2014/2015 and had it hauled to Michigan. The furthest I have driven on the road it is 35 miles one way from when I moved houses a few years ago and licensed it for just that trip. It has sat in the barn as a future project I just never had the time to get to. It has been started up and driven around the backyard a couple times every year to keep things lubricated then tucked back in the barn.

 

$3,500 o.b.o

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Edited by 68-f-model
lowered price further
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I wonder what size those front tires are, they look kinda goofy to me. Odd the voltage regulator cover is missing too.

Very clean for the northeast! Hope someone here gets it.

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Posted (edited)
13 hours ago, BOBWhite said:

I wonder what size those front tires are, they look kinda goofy to me. Odd the voltage regulator cover is missing too.

Very clean for the northeast! Hope someone here gets it.

If you look close the wires to the regulator have all been cut, probably had an all in one alternator/regulator installed.   Terry:MackLogo:  pretty clean F model

Edited by terry
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12 hours ago, mack31 said:

Hi I am in Pennsylvania. Going to see what it will take to get it back here

Contact Ray Sidella @mack mhe9 here on the forum. He has transported antique trucks for me in the past and a really great guy. Last I knew he has a dedicated weekly run from somewhere in Wisconsin to Pennsylvania and other places on the East Coast. A lot of times he has a lot of empty space on his low boy. Michigan is kinda of right along his route. He might be able to bring this to PA pretty reasonable. If you need his phone number send me a PM and I can get that to you.

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On 5/5/2024 at 9:52 PM, BOBWhite said:

I wonder what size those front tires are, they look kinda goofy to me. Odd the voltage regulator cover is missing too.

Very clean for the northeast! Hope someone here gets it.

They look goofy because he has the wrong rims on the front, those are "super single" rims for the rear, Spoke wheels that use wide base (wider than 9") take different rims for front and rear. 

 On wide base rims for the front, they have a single flange with the offest to keep the tire in the proper position over the bearing/spindle.

 Wide base for rear have a double flange with a space between them (to be like the spacer band) and center the wheel over the hub.

 He has rear, on the front, which moves the tire out, and not only looks goofy but isn't safe.

Here is a pic of the correct front style wide base rim for spoke wheels.

1b41d08c-d16a-4a49-9c13-b40c92d97d5e_400x500-336x336.jpg

Edited by Geoff Weeks
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Hard for my old eye to see, but it looks like the RRO may be mounted on the correct rim for the front, possibly the RFO also. 

 What a mess, I wouldn't move it on its own without getting proper rims and tires in the correct positions.

 Front floats go on 12.25 or there about front spoke rims. rears can either be Super Singles, on the correct SS rims or duals, on 9" or narrower rims.

 With the rims that are now on the front, the C/L of the tire is OUTBOARD of the outer wheel bearing, which will make near impossible to steer, and will overload the outer bearing.

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20 hours ago, Geoff Weeks said:

Hard for my old eye to see, but it looks like the RRO may be mounted on the correct rim for the front, possibly the RFO also. 

 What a mess, I wouldn't move it on its own without getting proper rims and tires in the correct positions.

 Front floats go on 12.25 or there about front spoke rims. rears can either be Super Singles, on the correct SS rims or duals, on 9" or narrower rims.

 With the rims that are now on the front, the C/L of the tire is OUTBOARD of the outer wheel bearing, which will make near impossible to steer, and will overload the outer bearing.

Respectfully  Mr. Geoff Weeks please stop with the guessing. 

The rims that are on the front are designed for the steer application and have the same offset as these https://buytruckwheels.com/products/22-5x-3-hub-pilot-flat-faced-alcoa-aluminum that are a modern version also designed for steer use. 

This posting isn't a debate on your personal likes/dislikes on tire/wheel choices. 

The rims are DOT approved and in the manufacturer's designed use location and there is nothing unsafe about the setup.

Similar to these trucks:

Mack RB688S, 44% OFF | kidsafisha.com

Mack RB688S, 44% OFF | kidsafisha.com

Pin by Kelvin King on trucks | Dump trucks, Mack trucks, Mack dump truck

 

 

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31 minutes ago, 68-f-model said:

Respectfully  Mr. Geoff Weeks please stop with the guessing. 

 

I am not guessing, I could be mistaken about the front rims being rear, the picture isn't a close up enough to tell100% however, the fronts are clearly mounted to the hub backwards, placing the center of the tire outboard of the outer bearing. Look at the pictures of the other trucks you posted with floats on the front. in every case the center of the tire is not outboard of the outer bearing. 

 I never said the rims weren't DOT approved, what I am saying is as set up on the steer they are wrong. On a proper set-up the centerline on the tire is between the two wheel bearing on the hub, this puts the center of rotation on the kingpin close to the center point of the tire (at the center point on center point type steering) 

 To me the fronts look to have a double mount flange but I could be seeing the drop-center, the pic is taken from too far away.

Look at all the pictures you posted of other trucks with floats then look at yours, they are not the same. In all cases in the above post the drop center gutter is on the INSIDE, yours in on the OUTSIDE.

 

Edited by Geoff Weeks
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since we ALL want to live in peace and harmony; question I have is who knows why the two doors have a circular plate lower mid section held by three sheet metal screws which has been eliminated later doors .. come on ole timers !! you remember???

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3 hours ago, mechohaulic said:

since we ALL want to live in peace and harmony; question I have is who knows why the two doors have a circular plate lower mid section held by three sheet metal screws which has been eliminated later doors .. come on ole timers !! you remember???

Im not old timerish enough yet so I'll keep on waiting for the brains trust to fill me in

Paul

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You are correct, and with the close up I can see where what I thought I saw was not what was. I apologize!  If installed backwards it is very dangerous which is why I made an issue of it.

 Thank you for the close up to clear that up.

I still think the off-set is going to cause a problem, with the king-pin inboard of the inner edge of the tire.  That spider/hub was not made for floats, but at least it isn't on backwards.

 You can mount one backwards, but it will not seat on the spokes correctly and the wedges will be way out on the stud if the stud is long enough. Broken studs and a lost wheel is the result, which is why I made an issue of it.

 I've seen some crazy stuff done, and I was worried this was one. Again I admit it isn't what I thought and I apologize.

Here is a Goodyear 20" rim assembled "backwards" on a steer hub, as you can see it will go on, and the wedges even go over the studs.  I hope you can understand my concern was about safety.

CIMG4070.JPG

Edited by Geoff Weeks
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