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Mack B873sx restoration


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Good luck bud it took me years and years just to get a house and a garage put up to work on it now the first few things that are doing to it I’ve had to do outside because of a lot of sanding of fiberglass. I’d rather just do that outside, so it doesn’t fly everywhere. Sometimes the wheels of progress turn mighty slow.

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2 hours ago, doubleclutchinweasel said:

I never got to drive Herman's truck.  Can't even remember if it was a B81 or a B83.  First one I ever drove was a B61 belonging to Phillips & Jordan.  My Dad had driven that particular truck from the time it was practically new.  That's the one I learned to drive on.  N/A Thermodyne (185HP?) and the 18-speed Quadruplex.

First one I was ever paid to drive was the 1967 R611ST.  250HP Thermodyne and the same 18-speed Quad.

Still, those B80's stick out in my mind.  All the ones around there had the "oil field" fenders.  Lots of them were triple-framed.  Huge spring stacks.  Some had the 22" wheels instead of the 20s.  Noticeably taller than the B61's.  Absolute beasts of trucks...with that same tiny little cab!

Funny thing was that most of those operators painted the trailers to match the tractors.  Herman's was red with a triple-axle Hyster lowboy painted to match.  The B61 I learned on was yellow and black, with a yellow tandem-axle Hyster trailer.  Almost like they had some pride in their rigs, ya' know?  Of course, the white R611 just had the standard yellow Hyster tri-axle behind it.  White tractor goes with anything, right?

I can't wait to see hicrop can do with this one.  I'll be riding down that memory lane every time he posts a picture on here.  So, thanks for taking us along for the ride!  Hurry up!  More pictures!😄

Doubleclutchinweasel,you mentioned Phillips&Jordan were they a land clearing outfit?Reason I ask I think we used them on a job we did in Frackville Pa back in the early 90’s.

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Just now, hicrop10 said:

Doubleclutchinweasel,you mentioned Phillips&Jordan were they a land clearing outfit?Reason I ask I think we used them on a job we did in Frackville Pa back in the early 90’s.

Yes.  At one time, they were one of the biggest clearing contractors in the world.

My great-uncle, Ted Jordan, was "Big Ted" and his brother-in-law, Ted Phillips, was "Little Ted".  Locally, they were known as "Ted & Ted", or just P&J.

None of the Jordans are involved with P&J any more.  They all went on to retire or start their own businesses...to more or less success!  Avis Phillips (Little Ted's wife) is still chairman there.  Ted's son is CEO.  They kept the Phillips & Jordan name, though, because it is pretty well known.

https://pandj.com/our-history/leadership/

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"Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines."

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My goal is to hand sand the complete cab and get some primer on it to prevent and more flash rusting.Then when I’m ready to send it off to a body guy I may sandblast the whole thing for him so he has bare steel to start with,or what he wants.What’s everyone’s thoughts?

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You don't need to remove all that surface rust if you're going to sandblast the whole cab before painting. Sure if you don't see a 10 years gap in time. Actually strange to see that much of it as long as you work in a shop not outside. Is the compartment dry enough? Or do you do wet sanding? And what is the reason at all you do that? 

To me it looks at least two ways may be chosen at this point. 1st you remove all the items off the cab, repair areas where actual rust through or dents take place, than sandblast the whole thing and bring its further faith into the hands of paint guy. 2nd is you sand off a certain area, for the best a portion of a cab with some borders, than mask the rest and apply primer, self etch or epoxy, depending on the religion you prefere to go along, and continue working on the next portion. This way no need in media blast is seen, or possibly locally only where deep rust was detected you can't sand off. Then paint guy will scotch-bright or sand your primer up and put his other layers over it.

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Никогда не бывает слишком много грузовиков! leversole 11.2012

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I used my steam cleaner to strip some parts, works well when the water is that hot. I used Nason Ful-poxy primer and was very happy with it, but if you're going to blast later that would be overkill. I used it on the chassis, engine, etc. and it really sticks-hard to scratch or chip. You have to top coat within 24 hours but it sure makes a strong coating when you do that.

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As long as you got  it down that far you might as well bead blast , the whole thing yes, that’s definitely way to go, but do not use the sand like the other fellow said Save a lot of work then it’s ready for paint then of course you gotta make sure you blow all the shit out after they get done so it doesn’t surface when you start painting. Good luck. Great progress you too.dean….bob

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