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Pulling injectors on a 673


Craig N
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I don’t think your sleeves are going to pop out but who knows I freed up a Chrysler slant six years ago just with mystery oil at typing the Pistons real light with a chunk of wood and I hammer again patience don’t get in a hurry but If the rings are rusted to  the cylinder walls you’re better off to punch them out and at least clean everything and reassemble .. Good luck Bob

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2 hours ago, The Rubber Duck 006 said:

You Guys talking about putting gaskets on brought back memories of my Grandpa. He worked on trucks back before he owned them and even after he owned them of course lol. He always used thin sewing thread to hold any type of gaskets on while setting them. 

How’s he use the thread to hold them on?  Man, I wish I would’ve paid more attention to some of the stuff my grandparents were doing when I was a kid. 

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2 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

Well would you look at that!  I didn’t realize they had all this for these still. I hope I don’t have to get into sleeving this motor, but if I have to, good to know they still make parts. 
 

Do you know if there’s room to drop the oil pan with the motor still in?  I’ll get under there tomorrow to look. There’s a good machine shop close that could do the crank if need be. Man, I really hope not. I’m really hoping for a nice clean up and breaking it free without busting anything.  Would be nice if all I needed was a gasket kit!!

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1 hour ago, Joey Mack said:

You know man that’s an amazing price thanks for that Joey I would suggest that’s your best bet to grab that for that price this way you know what you got after you complete the job you got to take it apart anyway good luck bud… bob

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I have only done one and that was in 1986 or as I remember everything was like 1200 but that included all six holes But that included sleeves pistons wrist pins  bearings gaskets frankly up I was going through the urge of that was what I would do especially on a clean up keeper … bob

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2 hours ago, Craig N said:

How’s he use the thread to hold them on?  Man, I wish I would’ve paid more attention to some of the stuff my grandparents were doing when I was a kid. 

He would run the thread through the Stud holes or bolt holes and basically loosely tie the gasket to whatever he was putting on ( Water pump,intake manifold, exhaust manifold, heads etc.) The thread doesn't hurt the gaskets and once you set whatever it may be in place it easily cuts the thread and he could easily pull the thread out and the gasket was set. 

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12 hours ago, BOBWhite said:

Are these dry sleeve or wet sleeve motors? And if they do pop out why could't you just reseal it and pop them back in?  You can check the condition of the cylinders and check for cavitation if they're out. 

Also do Mack's have problems with dropping or sinking liners like Cats do? I'd imagine sleeve shims would not be easy to find for one of these. 

If someone is putting a lot of force on a crank to move a seized engine then pushing as sleeve out is well with in a possibility 

Then as Joey suggested these are a press fit or freeze and get back 

This is all gunna be a challenge with a pistion still stuck in a sleeve 

Anyway thats how I would deal with it 

 

Paul

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If you end up having to re-build this engine, before you buy the kit,. Specify if you have a turbo or not, and head bolt count for the gasket kit.  I'm sure there is a few other things to ask about. They may ask for the current piston part number on the piston..  no biggie, just be prepared..  :) jojo

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1 hour ago, Joey Mack said:

If you end up having to re-build this engine, before you buy the kit,. Specify if you have a turbo or not, and head bolt count for the gasket kit.  I'm sure there is a few other things to ask about. They may ask for the current piston part number on the piston..  no biggie, just be prepared..  :) jojo

Awesome, I’ll be sure to call and order if I do end up rebuilding. Hoping to know what the inside of the combustion chambers look like today. 

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Before I would start buying engine kits, I would look around for a 237.  Find a running engine for the cost of a rebuild and have more power to boot.

Granted, even a 237 is getting hard to find in decent shape.  I was REAL lucky when I walked into mine for $300!  Even if I did have to do a bit of work on it.

IMG_20151013_212406_360.jpg

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Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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1 hour ago, Freightrain said:

I would look around for a 237.  Find a running engine for the cost of a rebuild and have more power to boot.

Granted, even a 237 is getting hard to find in decent shape.  I was REAL lucky when I walked into mine for $300!  Even if I did have to do a bit of work on it.

I put this up in Craig's other thread about if a 350 Cummins would fit under the hood of a B42. I have this R model with a super healthy 237, 6 speed lo hole trans and Mack rears if someone needs a powertrain. Truck is crusty but the powertrain components are great. And it has jakes on it. $2500 in Pittsburgh, PA.

 

 

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1 hour ago, Craig N said:

Awesome, I’ll be sure to call and order if I do end up rebuilding. Hoping to know what the inside of the combustion chambers look like today. 

Yup If it's just a toy Why piss away a big bag of cash on a rebuild! In my mind, open it up and see what's there pulling liners on this old stuff can be a nightmare I have had it where the whole weight of the truck was on a jack and a plate before the liner would move back when we had nothing!  We had a porta power at work to do this job ! Just saying !  Let's see what you got bro! as Joe mentioned welding the liner can shrink it however myself I would opt for a quick hone and new rings at most! if the liners are not scored up! 

 

Just stuff to think on!

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I’m really hoping that the liners are in nice enough shape along with the rings.  This is just a toy and I don’t really want to rebuild the motor. I’m going to see what I have when I get the heads off and go from there I guess. I would probably go for 67R models Mack listed above before I rebuilt the 673 I have.  A running 237 would sure be nice. That seems like a good deal as long as I can get it here cheap enough. A running truck to pull the motor out of is is a big plus for sure too.  I’d probably just swap the whole drive train at that point. It would be easier to pull the cab and nose off and do it all at once I imagine. Here’s to hoping that the engine I have is clean enough to re-gasket and put back together. 

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The one thing you would have to do IF you swapped the whole drivetrain is hang the R clutch pedal in your cab.  It's a cable pull clutch so it would not work with your existing pedal arrangement(push style).

If you have the baby quad in your truck I would recommend swapping the drivetrain.  I do fine with my Triplex but it is much stronger(though still limiting).

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IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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