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Manure must be happy if it only could feel anything for being transported in that shiny food grade SS tank!

The truck is an animal definitely. I also have a DMM. But turned out it's a project put on a back burner. I had to remove the cab to transport the truck in a closed trailer and it's still off the chassis for almost 7 years now. Hope to get fixing it some day. The specs are EM6-285 with T2060 Mack 6 speed and 44000 walking beams. It's a tandem not 3 axle as yours.

Vlad 

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Никогда не бывает слишком много грузовиков! leversole 11.2012

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Nice truck. Up until just recently, those OWNED the ready mix market here where I am. Tandem tandem, just like that with 72 inch spread. But they tell me it is getting hard to find front drive and transfer case parts for them now??

I always wondered how that drive system worked. Back in the 70's and 80's when all the ready mix trucks were just DM tandems here, I remember they all used to be able to move with nobody in them, but I have not seen that in any of the current ready mix trucks here any more.

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Sorry, I misread. You were talking about your hydraulic pump.

But back in the day I remember all the old ready mix trucks used to be able to drive from the controls at the rear. What kind of system did they have for that?

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On 10/30/2021 at 12:54 PM, james j neiweem said:

Do you haul milk when manure season is over?🙂

 

Manure season is never over. 

 

Ontario Canada is the location. Truck is out of Windsor originally, but I'm farther East than Toronto. 

On 10/30/2021 at 12:17 PM, Bullheaded said:

Nice truck. Up until just recently, those OWNED the ready mix market here where I am. Tandem tandem, just like that with 72 inch spread. But they tell me it is getting hard to find front drive and transfer case parts for them now??

I always wondered how that drive system worked. Back in the 70's and 80's when all the ready mix trucks were just DM tandems here, I remember they all used to be able to move with nobody in them, but I have not seen that in any of the current ready mix trucks here any more.

I've never heard of remote drive on a cement truck, but it is possible to get a specialty transfer case that can accept power from either the transmission, or a hydraulic motor. Sort of the opposite of a transfer case in a fire pumper, that will output to the rear wheels, or to the axles. Another option would be an air cylinder on the clutch. For low speed driving you don't really have to take the brakes off, but it isn't really advisable practice in either case. 

 

As for front axle and transfer case stuff not being available. I hope that isn't the case. But I also hope I don't need any...

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 10/30/2021 at 12:17 PM, Bullheaded said:

Nice truck. Up until just recently, those OWNED the ready mix market here where I am. Tandem tandem, just like that with 72 inch spread. But they tell me it is getting hard to find front drive and transfer case parts for them now??

I always wondered how that drive system worked. Back in the 70's and 80's when all the ready mix trucks were just DM tandems here, I remember they all used to be able to move with nobody in them, but I have not seen that in any of the current ready mix trucks here any more.

The biggest issue with DMM6EX units in Ontario is that with the start of SPIF axle set ups over 10 years ago, you could no longer carry a full capacity load on the forward axles. Because the second axle has a cab controlled air switch which controls air bags for ground pressure to the axle. It's basically considered the same as a lift axle in Ontario which is now reduced carrying capacity.  Love those DMMs.

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Looks the part, are they 20 inch wheels on the back, can get 12.00 x 20 bar treads for them and it will stand a fare bit taller and give better flotation in the paddock

14.00 x 20 is the largest 20 tyre I know of that are fitted to trucks 

Sugar cane haulout trucks have huge floatation tyres on the rear and we can do 100 kmh in those with a full load and they go strait on a spider or dayton hub 

Paul

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We are using 16.00 x 20 michelins on our yarder transport they definatly get you up off the ground a bit more if clearance is a concern and flotation is good

 

 

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On 11/18/2021 at 2:24 PM, mrsmackpaul said:

Looks the part, are they 20 inch wheels on the back, can get 12.00 x 20 bar treads for them and it will stand a fare bit taller and give better flotation in the paddock

14.00 x 20 is the largest 20 tyre I know of that are fitted to trucks 

Sugar cane haulout trucks have huge floatation tyres on the rear and we can do 100 kmh in those with a full load and they go strait on a spider or dayton hub 

Paul

 

On 11/18/2021 at 6:58 PM, D-Day said:

We are using 16.00 x 20 michelins on our yarder transport they definatly get you up off the ground a bit more if clearance is a concern and flotation is good

 

 

My local tire shop says stay away from 20" tube type tires and lock ring rims. I do not think new rims are available anymore?

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These are the highflotation tyres we use on sugar cane haulot trucks

The rims can be spider (dayton) mount and fit straight on were your duels were 

Give extreme flotation, are tubless, and apart from been noisy on the highway at speed seem to work fine

We can and do travel at 100kmh with no dramas and a full load

Admittedly this only short distance work and I doubt you would wanna drive for anymore than a half a hour at those speeds

 

https://www.titan-intl.com/tires/SUPER-FLOT#

 

Paul

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2 hours ago, Mandrewoid said:

 

My local tire shop says stay away from 20" tube type tires and lock ring rims. I do not think new rims are available anymore?

Pretty sure Accuride, among others, still make 3-piece (no more 2-piece) 20" tube-type Dayton-style rims.

Tubeless 22.5" one-piece rims are far better, easier to find, and easier to find tires for.  They fit the 20" spiders. "Small Spider".

I think the same goes for 22" tube-type and 24.5" tubeless.  "Large Spider".

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"Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines."

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The decision is made. I'm getting continental HDC3

https://www.continental-truck.com/truck/products/tires/construction/chdc3

8 of those will make a big difference, compared to the bald tires I have now. Here's some entertainment.  Stuck in both pictures. 

If I'm not happy with the HDC3 duals, I will triple up on the back. I've figured out how to do it and make it sturdy.   The idea is pretty simple. Get a 3/8" or 7/16" plate that will fit just inside the open center rim. Drill 17 holes in it. 6 for access to the lugs on the Dayton hubs, 10 in a circle for bolting a stud piloted rim to. And one big one in the middle for reaching through to install the wedges. 

You put your Dayton duals on as normal ( except a little bit of a tight spot to get the wedges in) , and true them up as normal. Then you bolt on a stud piloted rim w/tire to the outside dual. Tighten it up with some ugga duggas and send it. 

It will be wide, but it will get my outside tires on undisturbed ground more often which will help too. I will run the outside tires at like 55lbs and the insides probably at around 70. Depending on how squishy they look. I just have to find a machine shop that can make me 4 circles with the stud piloted holes drilled in. 

 

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New rubber is on. 650$ per tire 😬

I have gotten stuck once with the new tires but it was my fault not theirs. I got too close to a wet spot and couldn't turn sharp enough to avoid it. 

Question about the Mack rear ends. Do they all have the "cam type" differential that is supposed to automagically torque bias? I think mine may be worn, because with my lockers engaged I can have only one wheel on each axle spinning if the traction is bad enough. 

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3 hours ago, Bullheaded said:

I've often wondered why they never caught on as self loader logging trucks. 

I wonder if it is turning radius related? Or payload related. My DMM is incredibly heavy. 10" inner frame & 13" outer frame. With a mixer you'd want a stout truck because even when empty, you're carrying quite a load. 

Also I'm not a concrete guy but I have my suspicion that they may sometimes be a little over legal gross, but.... There ain't many scales in town if you know what I'm saying.

Log truck is pretty light when empty and at least where I'm from, you may have quite a drive to the mill. 

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I don't like your idea of using those flat rings to fit Budd wheels onto Dayton hubs. My guess is they will crack really soon. You may use something like that when the distance between two points of the force applied (in your case between the spoke stud and Budd mounting stud) is short. Otherwise you've got really large banding torque in the part. I would go another way and find hubs to fit Budd wheels. Mack axles made a way they used both Dayton and Budd hub on a similar spindle so doesn't seem difficult to convert (from where I'm sitting). My DMM had stud piloted Budd hubs from the factory and I located 4 13.50 (or so) steel wheels to mount 445/65R22.5 super singles on and fit to the rears.

Speaking the differentials the cam type in the axles was an option and by my observations a seldom used one in that era. Usually interwheel diffs are of a common gear style. The interaxle unit is always (if Mack axles) of a cam style and distributes torque. It may be equipped with air operated complete lock down and wouldn't distribute anything when locked just forcing both axles spinning together. It was an option for the most of models but I doubt many DMM's left the factory without it.

Никогда не бывает слишком много грузовиков! leversole 11.2012

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