NOS door installation

[Freightrain 2,250]

Well, after buying these like 17 yrs ago, I finally am going to put them on my truck.  I was originally hoping to find a better cab and paint it all at once but that never transpired.  So, I dug the doors out and starting to hang them.  I got the drivers side fitting up and aligned pretty well.  Latches nicely, though real fitment is not something you can do to the doors on these trucks.  Unless I guess I want to really cut and paste things to make it all museum quality?  Not likely.  There is nothing straight or even about the doors or cab openings.

 

 

 

All the keen eyed people will notice the lack of working room.  Ya,  you got to be a skinny ass to work around the truck in the stall.  I can just squeak between the bunk and wall.  Once I know both fit I'll be stripping the interior panel so I can give everything to a buddy for paint.  I'll have him use the same white he used on the bunk and I have a small pint of the green I used on the heater box 17 yrs ago.  It's a Volvo color if I recall?  It's on the can, he can use it to get more.

My original doors are pretty beat, rusty, cracked.  I have new side glass, though my vent windows are still nice along with the vent rubbers.  I just need to get new channel felt, window fuzzies and the door seal foams.  In all, shouldn't be too hateful of a project to tackle.

 

One thing:  Does anyone have the window stop that fits in the small hole in the bottom of the door?  I've been missing the one for my passenger door.  Would like to have one to get painted with everything else.  Let me know what you have.

 

Edited January 13 by Freightrain

[eddeere 444]

My doors fit almost perfect until I put the foam door seals in . The right side is ok but the left is hard to close . The white and brown  B 61 at the Lexington KY show with the factory sleeper did not have the foam seals .  I asked the owner about them . He said the doors fit perfect without them so he left then out . I do not think he drove the truck much .

[Hobert62 1,189]

You should eliminate the vents and put 1 piece glass in the doors like the guys do to 67-72 chevy trucks.  

[Freightrain 2,250]

Ed,. Ya, I drive my a lot and when it's cool the drafts coming in around doors can be annoying.  Summer not so bad when the a/c is blowing ice at you! I don't mind slamming them if they fit tight.

Robert, likely not change the glass configuration.  Unlike many, I like my vent windows!  Either allowing a good blast of air or diverting wind buffeting when window is down.

 

I would like to convert to electric windows.  It's a tight fit, I've mocked up a Ford window motor.  Hard/impossible to get window assy in the door with that motor.

Edited January 13 by Freightrain

[Freightrain 2,250]

Rob, yes.

[Freightrain 2,250]

Lol!

[66dc75 809]

Power windows in a B model

[Freightrain 2,250]

I saw those kinds of kits but didn't think they would fit.  Have a part number?

[Freightrain 2,250]

What did everyone use for felts and whiskers?  Generic stuff?  R model?  Watts used to carry it but have not researched it yet.  I literally tore into this yesterday afternoon on a whim.

Edited January 13 by Freightrain

[66dc75 809]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Two-2-Door-Street-Hot-Rat-Rod-Flat-Glass-Power-Window-Kit-w-Switches-Wiring/361881737576?hash=item5441d51968:g:JEEAAOSw4DJYfQ4l:rk:1:pf:1&frcectupt=true

[Maddog13407 2,101]

went to the local paint glass and body supply store Larry. I cheaped out and only put the chrome beaded stuff on the top where people could see. put the cheap window channel in the channel in the panel itself. I used black weatherstrip adhesive. I think the window wipes themselves I used generic cut to fit stuff. maybe for an 70's Ford or square body Chevy. I have used R model stuff on a B model before to

[41chevy 9,609]

7 hours ago, Freightrain said:

Ed,. Ya, I drive my a lot and when it's cool the drafts coming in around doors can be annoying.  Summer not so bad when the a/c is blowing ice at you! I don't mind slamming them if they fit tight.

Robert, likely not change the glass configuration.  Unlike many, I like my vent windows!  Either allowing a good blast of air or diverting wind buffeting when window is down.

 

I would like to convert to electric windows.  It's a tight fit, I've mocked up a Ford window motor.  Hard/impossible to get window assy in the door with that motor.

Do both your out handles drop down a bit? I have a box of the springs that keep the handles straight in my mixer parts container.I needed a pair and the vintage body hardware guy at Hersey offered me a box of 50 for 5 bucks.

[j hancock 11,463]

17 hours ago, Freightrain said:

What did everyone use for felts and whiskers?  Generic stuff?  R model?  Watts used to carry it but have not researched it yet.  I literally tore into this yesterday afternoon on a whim.

Last I knew Watt's had them.  For various Mack and non mack projects, I have been able to match up sizes for the glass run channels, whiskers, rubber bumpers, weatherstriping, etc. through Restoration Specialities.  Purchased items for both the DE and the B with L cab and quality is very good.

http://www.restorationspecialties.com/

 

Noticing the size of the work stall, I will have to wait outside...

[Freightrain 2,250]

Paul,  yes the drivers handle droops a touch.  The passenger not so bad.  I played/replaced with the springs years back, but needs attention again.  Once I get the door parts off the panel I'll look at them again.  If the springs you have are the correct ones, I'll use them.  Not sure what I did back when?

I'm going to poke around and see what I can find for window felts/etc.  I called my buddy, going to drop the parts off this week and have him get started. Once Rob gets me the window stop plate I can have things painted.  I seem to have lost the left over pint of paint I had from painting my heater box 17 yrs ago.  I had a factory painted panel scanned and matched.  I guess I'll give my buddy the heater cover and let him have it rescanned to match it.

I'll check into the power window kit this week.  I know Speedway Motors offered a handle switch that operates the window so you don't have the switch boxes mounted to the outside.  It uses the regular window crank so it doesn't look like power windows.  I like the idea.  I think I will also look at welding a piece of tubing to the hinges to run the wires safely into the dash area so there are no exposed wires.

Jim, ya I have a friend that can also just look from the outside of the stall.  Lol!  I feel fortunate enough to at least have it inside.  Though it can be a PITA to work on.  Another friend is building a 48x60 this spring so come next winter if I want to do something to it I can have elbow room!!

[h67st 761]

Freightrain, if you want the original Mack interior green, I found Axalta (Dupont) 44419 Frost Green Metallic...my interior was painted with that and it looks correct. Other numbers that are supposed to be the same color are Mack 312sx19p2, Kirker 812 or 812a, PPG 45735, NAPA 42198, and Sherwin Williams B7-42198-00-Y.

[ranchhopper 1,017]

I went and found a better stiffer, denser closed cell foam rubber for my doors the new hollow stuff is crap it doesn't hold the doors from rattling in the jambs. I used this stuff and it only puts a small indentation in it and that's enough to hold the door rigid and seal out the weather. I went and sourced all my window felt for the tracks ang cat whisker from ebay stores works better and half the cost.

[Freightrain 2,250]

My door seals(what's left) were just like 1/2" square foam strip stuck in the groove.  No glue.

I'll be shopping around.  Thanks for all the input guys.

[Maddog13407 2,101]

JC whitney has the solid foam in different sizes. I used it for vent and doors before. the hollow core stuff is totally garbage in a B model

[Freightrain 2,250]

We're suppose to get dumped on this weekend too.  Ugh.  I dropped the doors off at my friend's place to start on.  I'll get the rest of the little stuff over next week.

Thanks again.

[Freightrain 2,250]

Well, everything got paint!  Wow, buddy did a really nice job.

Here's a couple teaser pics til I get everything unboxed and bolted on.

Mirrors and trims pieces:

 

window panels:

 

Outside of door:

 

Inside of door:

Of course now my buddy wants to know when I'm bringing the cab over?   Ah, ya, right.  Not sure that will ever happen?  I'd like to just touch up the outside and get some fresh white on it to match the rest.

 

I did get the passenger door hung back on last night.  I got the vent window kinda cleaned up and put on.  The chrome is pitte on the outside but I'm not ready to spend the money to get that fixed!!!  Now I need to get window felts and tracks, some more new SS hardware and start bolting things on.  I'm still on the fence about putting power windows in it?  We'll see after I get everything else put back on the truck.

[Freightrain 2,250]

I'll get a fresh roll of duct tape in the mail so you can cover that BIG hole up in the door.  I wouldn't want to hold the responsibility of having that beautiful door rotting out!!!

[Freightrain 2,250]

Slow progress this weekend:

Picked up some Dynamat today, so I got some put on the doors.  That should keep them from being a "GONG" when closed.

 

I started to reassemble the mirrors, but need to get to the store and get all new stainless hardware.  That and I want to get some thin plastic to isolate the brackets from the paint on the doors.  I'd like to have stainless brackets, but that's a bit out of the budget.  Friend blasted and painted the originals since there were in pretty nice condition and not rotted to pieces.

[Freightrain 2,250]

Well I found a place on Ebay, then went to their website.  Rubbertherightway.com.   I ordered it Wed and it came from San Diego in 2 days to Ohio.  Nice!  Everything says made in USA.  Looks likes, fits nice.

 

What I did for the whiskers is ordered 1967-72 F100 and cut to fit.  I compared my originals to what my '69 had and the F100 were longer(good thing).  They come with snap clips already on them.  I just had to drill 3 holes and snap them on the door and trim panel.  Worked out really well. 

 

 

 

Everything mocked in place:

 

I have the upper channel formed to fit, just need to mount the clips.  Not sure if the old clips will work, so going to glue it also.  I'm waiting til I get the new glass installed and panel mounted in the door before I try gluing it as I want to use the window rolled up to hold everything correctly.

I also have the new channels glued into the door panels.  I have the old glass holding things in tight.  I need to remove the old glass, blast the lower channel/paint and glue the new glass in.  I also put new channels in the vent windows.

I'm waiting on the door seal material(coming this week), before finishing the doors up.  I might have to pull them off quickly to get the seals installed.

I have a big bag of stainless hardware to get the mirrors mounted up.  But again, waiting til doors are finished before doing that.  If I have to drop the doors off to get the seals installed I don't want to have to have the mirrors hanging on them.

 

 

Edited February 17 by Freightrain

[Vladislav 2,421]

Looks excellent on my screen!

[HarryS 380]

Lookin' good.