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Matt,  no need for the dynamat, apply the 2 lizard skin products all non painted areas both inside and out, including both sides of the firewall. On the engine side of firewall, we applied 1 coat of the 2 products then light sand to smooth it out  (lizard skin when dry is like a golf ball finish) then a second application to fill the golf ball type holes, then light rub back then we applied hyfill which we added about 35% flex additive to allow the hyfill to be compatible with the lizard skin (it is flexible - hence it's sealing quality and wont crack when dry) and did same with the hyfill a rub back and then another coat then paint undercoat with the 30-35% flex additive and same again with the top / final paint finish - we achieved result on the engine firewall side as the finished external paint and now 3 years since painted no cracking of any kind on the fire wall and withstands the heat from the engine, the sound control is good check out the lizard skin video the guy does a sound decible rating 

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Digging right into the cab Matt!  The L cab is indeed not as rigid as the B cab. Having the L cowl bolt to the door pillar post is just not as strong.

Did the same deal with a new floor, sills, back panel, remove and blast the cowl so all metal gets paint, etc.  Had an auto body shop claim that they knew what they were doing.  Blah, blah ,blah....  Now I have some cracks and bubbling that make me unhappy.  The door fit could be also better.  Should have done it myself.  Body shop hell is what I call it now.

My number one advice is to do as much welding and repair work with the cab firmly bolted down to the frame rails with all rubber mounts in place and with the doors hung.  There was a huge amount of cross bracing installed in my cab for the repair work and even still there was some movement from welding.  When it was time to install the cab, there were some alignment issues with the mounts.  Also, the L doors weigh so much when fully dressed that it is my contention that they should be in place and checked for proper closing as the rebuild process moves forward.  Have the four door alignment wedges in place also.

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3 hours ago, harrybarbon said:

Matt,  no need for the dynamat, apply the 2 lizard skin products all non painted areas both inside and out, including both sides of the firewall. On the engine side of firewall, we applied 1 coat of the 2 products then light sand to smooth it out  (lizard skin when dry is like a golf ball finish) then a second application to fill the golf ball type holes, then light rub back then we applied hyfill which we added about 35% flex additive to allow the hyfill to be compatible with the lizard skin (it is flexible - hence it's sealing quality and wont crack when dry) and did same with the hyfill a rub back and then another coat then paint undercoat with the 30-35% flex additive and same again with the top / final paint finish - we achieved result on the engine firewall side as the finished external paint and now 3 years since painted no cracking of any kind on the fire wall and withstands the heat from the engine, the sound control is good check out the lizard skin video the guy does a sound decible rating 

I think I might go that route, I like that you can paint overt it.

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I know I am repeating what I have written but hard experience lesson - make sure you put the flex additive into the paint and hyfill etc, otherwise in all the hidden areas no need to paint over, but if say you want to get some colour into the lizard skin I think the current product is a lighter grey, you could put a little colour into the lizard skin, my guys put a little green paint into the lizard skin before they applied it under the engine hood for sound and heat control - picture attached, now the alloy hood sounds like it is fiberglass

IMG_0651.JPG

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That is a bare bones cab!! Should look real good when you are done, like a new truck!!     terry👍👍👍:MackLogo:

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Looks great especially the new bumper.

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Nice Matt- was thinking about your project today and the fact you haven't posted in a while Looks like you have been busy!

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You made that bumper? Looks great...I wish I could do metal work like that!!

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On 12/30/2018 at 5:49 AM, mattb73lt said:

No, I bought it years ago. Just machined the footsteps and mounting holes from the remnants of the original. Took a little ingenuity to support it while working on it. Then I rebuffed it.

Was it a bumper for a B-model or any other one you found with the dimentions matched?

Looks excellent. Nothing compares to polished stainless steel.

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6 hours ago, Vladislav said:

Was it a bumper for a B-model or any other one you found with the dimentions matched?

Looks excellent. Nothing compares to polished stainless steel.

I bought it from Doug Fetterly about 16+ years ago. He makes and markets repro steel and stainless B model bumpers.

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19 hours ago, mattb73lt said:

I bought it from Doug Fetterly about 16+ years ago. He makes and markets repro steel and stainless B model bumpers.

Thank you for the info. I don't have a B-model but will keep it in my mind.

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On 1/2/2019 at 8:22 PM, mattb73lt said:

I bought it from Doug Fetterly about 16+ years ago. He makes and markets repro steel and stainless B model bumpers.

FYI, Doug no longer makes the stainless bumpers, just steel. I bought a steel one and the stainless grill guard  two years ago for my B755. He said he will no longer make the stainless bumpers because they scratch too easy and are really hard to make because of that.

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23 hours ago, MACKTRUCKS4 said:

FYI, Doug no longer makes the stainless bumpers, just steel. I bought a steel one and the stainless grill guard  two years ago for my B755. He said he will no longer make the stainless bumpers because they scratch too easy and are really hard to make because of that.

Good thing I didn’t mess it up while machining it up then! I have one of his steel ones on my B-42. They do look nice.

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Looks like the things are doing cool. Would like to see the cowl patch pieces.

Observing your progress I even started crawling over my military Mack cab with a measure band and a caliper to figure out which parts I would be able to order fabricated. The cab has many things in common with your one being basically a L-model cab. But since it's an open one the rocker channels were made different. Consit of lower and upper panels. Your cab has the upper ones only.

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O.......M.......G.........AWESOME.

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When you say "new" roof, is it from a donor cab?

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58 minutes ago, h67st said:

When you say "new" roof, is it from a donor cab?

Yes, it was salvaged from a fire truck a friend gave me. The cab was rough, but I carefully dissected it and ended up with some better pieces or at least patterns to make replacements.

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Hope it all aligns up right, looks like a top notch job!!     terry👍👍:MackLogo:

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