fjh
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Everything posted by fjh
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Agree with that statement Glenn! 15 is min I want to see wound up I like 25-30 If ya have to disassemble the drain back valve and stretch the spring!
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NO should start unless you pulled it in with the bolts it should be in time enough to run! Ambac pump correct!
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Yup good point ! Check this post as to where to take the preasure from
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yup the engine would run fine with all the stuff he wants to do with that cam how ever the huge bag of money you would spend to get there ain't worth it!
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You don't want to go there huge under taking The ECU and wiring are different! Nightmare! You will create mor problems than you will solve!
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Start with the fuel return check valve just behind the turbo drain tube that may correct your issue its relatively cheap!
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no 500! 375. An E9 swap project is doable ! Motor mounts are doable but not identical I believe you'll have to mod the front mount! the rad and after cooler is the big mod because of the hood!
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When u post post the color of the smoke black white blu al of these are indicators
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Dynatard trying to get it to work
fjh replied to thomastractorsvc's topic in Engine and Transmission
Disconect the wire that comes to the head from the firewall then determine if you got power on that wire if so you have a short remove the wires one at a time from each head till you find which one or ones are shorted remove that valve cover/s and determine what is shorted! -
Check the tank Vent ! ? I Had a plugged vent recently, chased it for hours! cheap and easy if you check first instead of after you change the expensive stuff!
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Disconnect the torque limit switch on the trans shift cyl at the rear of the trans just above the out put yoke? just something to try!
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Check the eecu plug for coolant wicking also don't rule out the relays tucked in behind the dash rh side of the former glove box location. Seen them fail try swapping one or two.
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Way faster as well
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passenger side No1 ( forward cyl ) left 8765 looking down right 4321 order 15486372
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Amen Bro you need to follow the above advice! Pull the front valve cover and look! get slack on both valves then you know your on number 1! then roll it back a ways then come back up in engine rotation to your target 5 Degrees the spade needs to be DEAD CENTER in the hole on the pump in should start and run but will be SMOKEY as soon as the oil pressure comes up the timing should advance to around 12 degrees If it doesn't clean up there is something wrong with the timing advance!
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Work in an x pattern from the center to the out side first torque 100 second 170 final 220 firing order 1548-- 6372 Valve set 24 exhaust intake 16 The markes are on the damper pointer is on the passenger side behand the ac pump if it has ac. Valve yoke screw down till the screw touches then two flats and lock it!
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What test equipment are they using?
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Theres room there ! just use your imagination ! Magic! 1
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Most noticable The e 7 head has guide studs for both the valve yokes the ac does not There are other more subtle changes as well that is the main one
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Where are you located? theres no good reason why that engine wouldn't past emissions a new after cooler and a turbo and a clean air. Filter and maybe a set of injectors at most somthing fishy unless the wrong cam has been installed.
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Yup
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Would be nice but ! Hope your right however Lets see Bridge engine! ! = Another Half baked bandaid !
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Half fuel is Normal
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Truck Design 101 - Ergonomics
fjh replied to kscarbel2's topic in Modern Mack Truck General Discussion
I wish Scania had the 51plus percent Mack market share in stead of the Volvo dudes at least we would be building a Mack worthy truck by this point. As for the shifter I refer the Volvo trash setup to the Mack set up . -
What ratio are the diffs ? Have u checked the ujoints ? if you are running un even tires try locking out the power divider! Also check the rear yoke bolt on the trans for tightness!
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