Jump to content

fjh

BMT Benefactor
  • Posts

    5,397
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    20

Everything posted by fjh

  1. He quoted spec.s, All is good!
  2. Don't quote me on this but with some horse power changes the cam key must be changed yours my be one of these!
  3. See Chuck No Problem there! Were here for ya BUD !
  4. yup that guy made enough money to take a Vacation! Why don't ya drop up my way Chuck I need a vacation! How bout you Rass ? you could use a week in the Sun couldn't ya!
  5. If you unplug it it will code out! The valve is controled by the flow in the mass flo tube the valve really only goes where its told to go the computer does not know if its getting there or not!It would show up on the advance display in diagnostics as not reaching target but won't throw a code for it! put the block plate in, that 68 made ya and try it! If it is the egr valve your floating boost will be gone!
  6. simply put an air switch on the supply line to the limit relay
  7. If the spring idea don't work my best guess is the egr valve sticking! They can and will stick and not code out
  8. It looks like you used the old lever, Replace the throtle lever on the side of the pump if the springs re worn it will surge and not return correctly!
  9. Anytime!
  10. Yup thats normal as I explained The dynatard will make some valves appear loose your good to go!
  11. Sorry I missed your post been busy !You need to find the valve set marks on the fly wheel peep hole at the bottom, also your engine will have a slack spot where the dynatard lump is I beleive there is a small depression at that spot to allow the slave in the rocker to charge your probably landing on that spot,Seting on valves rocking is not the best on these engines.
  12. Apparently the M/V Drive trans has been a staple in Europe for years , having said that I to am a doubting Tom,
  13. You had a code for no#1 EUP Which is now in number two! Correct? You need to put that origanal no 2 pump back in its hole as it is calibrated for that hole and either replace the eup or replace the injector!Remembering you had a code for #1 eup. My opinion!
  14. You need to feed that dog more!
  15. It may be a bad injector To check which hole breifly short out each unit pump one at a time untill you hear the knock go away. If you find its,eup 1 Replace unit pump one! But note the cal code on the side of the new pump as it needs to be installed in the computers brain at a later date by a Dealer..\ It may be a bad injector Also check the pan plug for brass I have seen several trucks of this era with the odd bad wristpin bushing.
  16. Chuck give the EGR valve a tap with a small hammer see if that wakes it up any! I wondered when I saw your post as you are creating the same situation as pluged cooler with a block plate!I bet the egr valve is sticking open.Have 68 put the truck on the advanced display in the OLD VMAC PROGRAM It will tell ya where the EGR valve is at If its a more than 50 % its stuck open.The other possibility is the turbo vanes are jaming or linkage is sticking!
  17. Good find Originally on most of the R models the trucks came plumbed with 1/4 braid from the filter head to the fire wall then plastic to the gauge head I hope ya got the fix there,Kinda bad timimg for a burst line.
  18. Train I haven't followed what you have done to this engine other than the housing so forgive my ignorance !BUT there is somthing I ran across some time ago , have you looked at the compressor I ran across one of these that the compressor had babit ( WORN )style bearings on the crank and it caused the engine to have low oil preasure.
  19. I have seen em go 30000 hours in a dump application look at the hours not the miles You can easy see 20 -250000 on average .
  20. Good engine ,the best model of truck to have , Last of the stand up oil changes!.
  21. Yup you'll have to knock grand of of the price with that program on there It devalues the real estate .
×
×
  • Create New...