Freightrain

Great news Mike!

I think the front of an MH would likely scare the bejeebers outta traffic coming up from behind LOL!! Good idear........ Trailer looks super nice.

Wow...even has the hot rod hood scoop!! Typical fire apparatus....Red and very, very clean.

If he told you..........he'd have to kill ya. Duh! Welcome to the looney bin, funny farm, whatever ya wanna call it. Plenty of information around.

Awesome work!!!

I even went and bought me a nice 3/4" IR impact just for the stretch job on my B. Sure does come in handy!! Even hooked a nice 50ft 1/2" line to the compressor for that added "punch". Got it off Amazon for about $200 if I recall? Was not the bottom of the line, but couldn't afford the top LOL!

O-rings not big enough to take up the needed space. These apparently looked like a "T" shape, and mine only has the top of the "T" left(or maybe just a straight piece like Ron mentioned?). The remaining portion that seals against the tube itself is long gone(thus the 1/4" tube is loose in the fitting and leaks). I'll check around tomorrow, I slipped a brass ferral on the end of the tube and snugged it down just barely(enough to keep it from working loose-but not so tight as to crush the ferral). It kept it from leaking for the trip to Milan, Michigan this weekend. But, I want to fix it properly. My guess is it needs to be a soft seal, as with the vibration I'm sure it would crack the line or fitting in short order.

Got enough room for an Aux? That would get you all the gearing you want.

Seems my buddy's 68 Dodge pickup had L/R studs on it. He's had it since the late 70's, I met him shortly after.

Ok, after like 50 yrs, my return line to the pump has a leak. Seems the little rubber seal is about non existent. Was talking with peole yesterday and found out it is suppose to be like a compression seal originally. Mine only has a small rubber ring at the top, which is allowing the line to wiggle and leak. Been that way since I got the truck actually, but finally starting to leak. Is it going to be hard getting new seals for the line? Might call Cross truck Monday to see if they list them. Is there anyplace else that might carry that stuff readily? Would a dealer carry this?

I'm guessing Updraft carburetor? Thus the fuel not getting up to cylinders. Have you tried Ether? Just a snort to see if it coughs at all. That would confirm you have spark. Suppose it has a Magneto also? Hows the timing? I'm not familiar at all with tinkering with this old stuff, but the same basic principles apply.

If you are posting from a phone or Ipad, they tend to rotate pictures for some reason(lots of people having that issue too). Hopefully Ken don't see this or he might blow a gasket LOL!!!!!!

You forgot the black smoke belching from the pipes!!!!

I just slipped the carriage bolt through and put a nut on the other side. Easy to removed when needed. Yes, they aren't in contact under normal driving, mine never had a mark in them. They won't "rattle".

Nice lil trailer! Like to find a longer version(my car is 20ft itself) and convert for my race trailer someday! More room for the lil missus and a shower/bathroom! Stainless would be really nice!!! LOL!!

Ahh, I get it(thanks Ron). I thought you were speaking of the mounting pin, not the slipper pads and safety pins. My pins were bare when I bought the truck. Replaced them with bolts when I pulled it apart. Not correct, but ran that way for 10 yrs til I put the air ride on it. Here is fixing it after I broke a leaf a few years back. I used a carriage style bolt for the safety: Broken spring: I cut them down to 3 leaf and after 8 yrs the original leafs gave up one day. I had them put 3 new leafs on both sides. Lasted til I put the air ride on it couple years ago.

I rebushed mine back when I bought the truck. It was just a brass bushing. Are talking like a typical car spring bushing, with rubber and steel sleeve?

Doesn't sound like the same set up I had. Single axle? Might be a lighter suspension then mine?

Take the line off the pump and stick in a gallon can of fuel and see if it continues to run off that. Then you will know if you have issues back to the tanks. Better to narrow things down so you can start in the right direction.

Use Photobucket or some hosting site. Then copy/paste the link.

Holy Mackeral!!! WOW!!! Awesome build!!! I just marvel at guys that get to do restorations like this. Just every little nut/bolt and built like a Swiss watch. Outstanding.

Depending on how it was built, it could have 5.xx gears out back which would really slow the truck down. Finding fast gears(4.10 or such) will be tough for that carrier. I think 4.00 was the fastest they made back then. My 4.10(air ride) and single over triplex gets me 72 mph on 22.5 rubber. I would not want a 7-9 spd for a low power truck. You'll really struggle to get up to speed(especially if you pull a trailer). If you don't want two sticks, maybe a 10 or 13 spd RR. When I bobtail, I start in 3 Lo and skip along to 4th lo. Then I start splitting as it takes a bit more umph to build more speed. Especially on the highway, if you don't have a nice split ratio it will be a dog on the hills. My .02, since using mine for pulling my race trailer all summer for the last 12 yrs.

Wow...look at the engine room. Clean!!!(even after 70+ yrs) Very nice. Glad to see someone is going to do something with it.

That is what made my trip rough. No jake(not that a 673 makes enough umph to make one work well enough). Plus, mine likes to jump outta 2nd under decel. Have to keep your hand on it or it works out and leaves you in Georgia Overdrive. Only gear that does it, and not an issue under load.

And likely the real reason you bought the Superliner. You couldn't take getting beat to death and going 10 mph up all the hills in your B. I think that picture is a duplicate of EVERY road in PA LOL! Put a 40ft trailer behind you and HAVE FUN!!! Ohio has a few bad roads, but most are ALOT more passable then what I saw this past weekend.