Freightrain
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Everything posted by Freightrain
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Look great! 👍 -
R model door latch
Freightrain replied to Lmackattack's topic in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
Similar issue with my B. Drivers door has always been a PITA. Most times you have to bang it with your shoulder to get it open from inside. One in a while it just clicks open without issue. I have ground on the two latch paws with some luck. It is different from your R but still a bitch. The passenger door works flawlessly like a new Cadillac. Just click with two fingers every time. I've jacked the door frame with a bottle jack to widen it and it seems to help for awhile. I've polished the two ramps in the door frame portion with some luck also. Never lasts long. Even with my new door shells it doesn't fit well. Aggravating. -
If I recall mine was 15+ lb when I put a gauge on my 237 when it was acting up. Found out my throttle arm had slipped and wasn't giving me that last bit of WOT. Wouldn't climb a hill to save it's ass.
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Very cool piece of history.
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I remember my first rebuild in early 80s. 302 in my 70f100. Last 20 miles. Rope seal fell apart and clogged oil galleries, crank was junk. I have never used anything but a rubber rear seal since! Rope was only thing until they offered rubber. Rear cap had a small pin sticking up to hold rope in place. Had to pound that out to use a rubber seal. By late 80s they changed to external rear main seal instead of inside the rear cap. Easy to replace, just pull transmission. I have a lot of engines under my belt and had good places to learn from.
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Ya, just trying to make a final decision. The brgs all looked about new so I don't see any issue with the crank. It could stay in. But would be nice to strip it bare. Just have to price it. I will never recoup the cost of all this with what do with the truck. My buddy was over the other day and said "you coulda just run this". Well, it did need a head gasket on the back head(sooner then later). I through the 237 in and it is a slobbery mess. I'm not putting up with that again.
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Crank isn't out to be able to press them out that way. Not that I haven't thought of removing crank. I also thought of having block hot tanked, new cam bearings, etc. Be nice and clean for paint!! I could have shop remove and install new liners? Might make a call? Not sure I want to hear the price!!!!! I have a local place that does truck engines.
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Marriage
Freightrain replied to Vladislav's topic in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
I don't have the patience to tinker that long 😆. But sure do love looking at projects that look that nice. Besides I "use" my stuff too much to keep it that nice. -
Interesting. Here is 6400 part number at Freedom. $590. https://www.freedomracing.com/am-pt-6400-c-cylinder-liner-puller-assembly-tool.html I wonder what the difference is between the two part numbers? Says Cummins and CAT. But ONI lists it as Mack? What is the bore difference between Mack and CAT?
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I went to website and looked around. Seems legit? They are in Florida.
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Wow, goes to show that some places will gouge you for every cent!! Pays to shop around. Thanks Joey, I will spend that kind of money. I see a difference in part number 6400 and 6435. Wonder what this is about?
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Yikes!! It is now $2100. https://www.freedomracing.com/pt-6435-liner-puller-tool.html Definitely will be fabbing something on my own. Yes, work at a full outfitted machine shop. I can build anything. I only have this one engine to rebuild so, again, no sense in buying the tool. No one will buy it used to recoup my expenses. Did I read that these dry liners will slip out once they move a few inches(like a wet liner)? Or do they come out tight the whole way(I figure).
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I had thought of making my own puller from round disc at bottom, a tall ring on top and all thread to pull up on disc. I buy tools I don't need but for a one time job, $600 is a bit steep.
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You're bulking up my post count....😂 Pretty soon I'll be at 91 pages like your DM thread.....😉 I'm going to try to weld on a liner to see if I can get one to move. Hopefully this weekend? Once they are out I can order a kit!
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Just a 5 spd? Did that for shifting I suppose plus a touch more road speed.
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Marriage
Freightrain replied to Vladislav's topic in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
Chassis looks fantastic Vlad! I love restorations like this. I will never have anything that nice. -
Mack B873sx restoration
Freightrain replied to hicrop10's topic in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
I only had $750 each for custom alum tanks. Granted that was a few years back. 6-7 yrs? -
Mack B873sx restoration
Freightrain replied to hicrop10's topic in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
I patched up my B tanks a few times. Drained it down and tipped it up so fuel was away from step area that needed patched. Ran a piece of 16 ga and welded it solid. Didn't blow myself up. Diesel fumes area as explosive as gas. I finally gave up patching and ordered new aluminum tanks. Didn't I see Watts offering new steel tanks? Very pricey. -
They are turning the big CAT motors like 5000 rpm now. Getting 2-3000 HP. Valve float is a big deal. Those huge valves need control. I suppose the bottom end is not really an issue with staying bolted together. Of course when they do break....it is spectacular!
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He says never a problem. Never had one come apart on him. I was amazed. I want to see it run this summer. He is doing headwork, havig hard time finding someone to put fire ring back in heads. I asked my motor shop and he just cringed. They aren't set up for big truck stuff. I did find the roll pin on the pump coupler.
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Well, I just messaged my "new" FB friend that is local that pulls an old R model with a 237 and he is giving me insight. Yes, pump only installs one way but he will come down and time it for me. He turns that stock 285(less intercooler) 3400 rpm. It runs really well for a little motor. Keeps the local CAT guys wondering.
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So taking the three bolts out will keep it in time, per say. As long as I don't rotate the crank? I know there are timing marks on the gears behind the cover. I cleaned up most of the dirt and will be pulling the main cover. There is more to reassembly, as I have skimmed my manual a few times. The manuals I have are for 675-676 motors. I suppose the basics are the same for assembly?
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I got balancer off. No worries about beating it. Someone else already did. Couple good wallop marks on the back side. Balancer is red, so it came from something else. Little heat,PB, and casual persuasion and the pulley was loose, then balancer came off. If they had just put two tapped holes it would be painless. Engineers....ugh.
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No pins. You can see the color differences in the three parts so someone has been into it. The three bolts into drive looks solid,the four on pump look like they may "swivel"? Should I just pull front cover plate to see gears?
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Motor on floor. Bolts out😉. I won't beat on it. Will try rotating it on hub first.
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