Freightrain

I used some clutch shims to just play with countershaft preload and I need about .025 more then I have. I will work on that. No I also got the mainshaft figured out. I stacked the bearings on each side of housing and clamped in a vice and used a dual indicator to see what kind of wiggle I had. Suppose to be .001-.005. Using existing shims I was at .004. Close enough. I warned the bearings and installed them and put thrust plate in the groove. All is snug so that worked out. I was able to find NOS gear bushings on eBay last night. Should be here Saturday. If that works out, I won't have to make bushings!! Super stoked about that. Hope to get things coming together in the next few weeks.

Likely not. 😲

Maybe it was a KW? Been awhile since I've seen it. I was just thinking the other day if he is out of danger zone? Thought I might call him and see what's up.

Bentos' Pete also?

Countershaft is by torque using a fish scale and pulling a rope wrapped around the shaft. 8-11# pull if I recall. Mainshaft is +.001 Freeplay I think. Have to go out and read specs. I'll make shims but Kevin All is sending me a few pieces so I asked if he had any shims laying around. He said he had a trans with back box already off it.

I picked up my box of bearings yesterday so I got some assembly work done last night. I tried using the oven to preheat the bearings so they would drop on but by the time I ran through the snow to the garage, even having them wrapped up, they cooled off too much. I ended up using my small rosebud torch head to get them hot enough to drop on. Worked well. I got the countershaft in the main box, then set the back box on and tried seeing what the preload was with my old shims. Way too tight. Will work on getting more/making some. I will also get bearings mocked up for mainshaft to see what kind of shim pack I will need before pressing them on. Little by Little.......

Naw, looks like something was drug out of the cab and scraped it. When I bought my 64 galaxie2 dr from out of state I had to take to a dealership and have them check the VIN. Car was not running, it was a PITA but it passed and I got a clear OH title. Another story, was going to take my ATV to Hocking hills to ride with a group. You have to have a state sticker and insurance. When I bought it new in 99 it didn't have a title. I had to load it and take to dealership for inspection. They didn't even come out and look at it, just stamped paperwork. Then go to state license bureau and they have to do it again(they never went out to look at it either). What a PITA for nothing. I get to park and they didn't inspect it either to confirm I had sticker and insurance. What a joke. All that for one trip, never been back.

Ron Smith is 39 Baby Mack on BMT.

All permanent gensets have disconnects that are built in so that it can't backfeed. Before even starting a generator, turn off your main breaker(large one usually at the top of panel) and then go about hooking up Genset and get it running. Write it down if need be as special instructions to do it the same everytime you need power. Basic consideration is an extension cord is good for 15 amps. One is good for a frig and a few lights and maybe a well pump. One for furnace, one for AC is safe. The starting current on the motors is what really hurts on big items. Example: 3600 watt generator is good for 30 amps (3600 watt/ 120volt = 30amps). So two extension cords.

Yes, I have an electronic speedo thanks to Rob back about 15 yrs ago. I machined the reluctor wheel and the tail housing for the sender. Rob got the Speedo and sensor. Works flawless. Clean case NOS fork Clean bolts Gasket kit from PAI nhttps://i.postimSPAI GGS-3960 MAISSION GASKET KIT 8.5

Remember, the DMV is typically a private run company doing the work for the state (at least in Ohio) so they have absolutely NO clue about much. You can't take their words as law, it is just their opinion. I put truck plates on my B at first, then IFTA. One year of that and I put Historical tags on it.and never looked back. Been three states away, plenty of scale houses and no one really cares. I keep it looking nice and that helps in my opinion. But with the "rat rod" crap running around these days I think it is less of an issue. My trailer is lettered up with my race car name but at some point that will get removed if I ever change trailers or reside this one. 23 yrs and I keep my nose clean.

I'm with Geoff, broaching is cutting a slot. Reaming is precisely finishing a bore. Does it have something to do with the dimples? I'm too young and never took machine shop training so if there was a term used long ago I am unaware. Don't worry about me having any high tech equipment at my work. Nothing but 80 yr old beat up, wore out, junk. Or "new" CNC equipment was bought 30 yrs ago. It's wore out now too. I'm glad I've had the opportunity to teach myself all this so that I can do this kind of work. Paying someone else would put it out of reach.

This thing rattled and banged for the last 23 yrs. After a long trip, if I stopped I would have to leave the main in gear and the compound in neutral to keep it from sounding like it wants to come apart.

Broached how? My plan was remove old and shrink new brass in and bore to size. I was going to use my Dremel to put some oil dimples in it like original. A secondary thought was use my friends pin hone to finish the ID if my machining doesn't get a nice enough finish. Specs calls for .004-.005 clearance. First gear is currently .020-.025!

For 20 yrs all I have heard is "OMG"!! Been the complete opposite. Granted I could have gotten off much cheaper but I am not going this far and leave old stuff in there. I am going to make/repair the one gear bushing because it is so bad from lack of oiling. I have more pictures and some short videos just so I would have record of it.

Well, I have the main box home from hot tank and mounted back on the stand ready for assembly. I spoke with local supplier and all bearings I need are $1500. This includes that double race in the back box. Everything is in stock, nothing special ordered. This is totally against all I have heard about working on these old boxes. Be a week before they are all in my hands from locations in Ohio and Indiana. Then I can start getting the countershaft preload set. Some may choke on the price, but see what it costs to go through an Eaton?? Or get one to put in my truck. I'll have a bunch more then $1500 in it.

Yes, two seals for shift rods have leaked badly for years. On the list of needed parts.

Not sure what you are referring to? The oil tubes between the shafts? Mine are likely worn but nothing I can do about those.

Well, my initial intent was to replace it with something newer. But, I thought I might just see what I had and make a decision later. After tearing into it, it was just one bearing on the mainshaft that was the big problem. I have it completely apart and washing it up now. Fresh out of the truck. Lids off, back box off. Compound gears. Good shape. Grimey parts Getting mainshaft out. Sleeve was stuck. Clean parts. Mainshaft out. Someone plugged the 1st oil galley, hence bushing worn and bearing junk. Trashed, why it had 1/4" slop in shaft. Dressed the ID of sleeve so it slips over shaft easily now. Main box going for cleaning this week. I have basic bearing list. Everything seems available. Even the dreaded "double taper cone" in the back box. I found a couple new Timken on eBay for under $100? I heard that was the whole deal with rebuilding these old transmissions. All the rest are off the shelf. Will update as I go along in the next few weeks. I had no clue as I dug into this thing but I figured why not? It is already in bad shape, and if I can vastly improve it I might as well before going through the work of replacing it with an Eaton. There is still a lot of work to be done but I think it will work out in the end. I want to thank Matt and Kevin for their assistance in getting it to this point.

Most brake valves won't release until you have a specific air pressure. Mine is like 70#.

That phony air shifted three stick BS. Pfft. I have a REAL three stick truck. I have the triplex out of it currently for a rebuild. I need to post about it but I need a place to store the pictures. It won't let me download any more here. My Post Image acct is screwed up and won't let me use it anymore either.

Four holes on that cross member, mine had a plate with valve mounted to it. Only picture I have handy showing air lines. I was in the process of stripping the truck to stretch it and and the bunk. Long time ago.

Yup, that is where the air lines were hung. The original tractor protection valve was right at the back of the cab and the air lines were draped and hung on those clips.

Merry Christmas back to you. Sounds like you have quite the plans in action. Enjoy and be safe.

If it hasn't been pulled lately, I wouldn't move it until you know the linkage won't freeze up and leave the truck stuck where it's sitting! Not that those worked very well anyhow, but no sense in making matters worse.