Freightrain

I will need to do some fancy footwork to convert to pull clutch. Either linkage or add a cable to the end of my existing pivot and loop around and attach to arm. Have arm hanging down and pull backwards. Either way is doable. Local friend has a B with an 8LL and said I can come up and see what he did.

I like the even splits all the way up. It seemed like a good choice.

It's double. .86 and .73(something like that). Per Eaton website.

No doubt. It likes the Triplex splits but it is going to take some fab work to make it all fit and not sure I am ready for all that.....yet. I do have to finish my racing season. Have to work on mounting arrangements, may have to change clutch housing? Push clutch instead of pull. Now that I have something to touch and see I can start with working on a plan. Hard to do that with just pictures on a computer. I had him put a forward X cover on it instead of a rear. It will just be in front of my cross member on the floor that I put in when I rebuilt the floor. It gives me something to bolt seats into and stiffened everything. A rear cover put it just behind the cross member(pc of 1" sq tube).

Was surfing Marketplace Saturday and came across an ad that caught my eye. RTLO 18913a $3500 Out of power unit that only used one gear. Low hours. Was super clean inside, sliding clutches all looked untouched. He has three, I bought one for my truck for when the 300+ gets installed. Overkill?? Absolutely. But won't have to ever worry about hurting it. And I am good with that. Double OD so it gives me longer legs.

Look great! 👍

Similar issue with my B. Drivers door has always been a PITA. Most times you have to bang it with your shoulder to get it open from inside. One in a while it just clicks open without issue. I have ground on the two latch paws with some luck. It is different from your R but still a bitch. The passenger door works flawlessly like a new Cadillac. Just click with two fingers every time. I've jacked the door frame with a bottle jack to widen it and it seems to help for awhile. I've polished the two ramps in the door frame portion with some luck also. Never lasts long. Even with my new door shells it doesn't fit well. Aggravating.

If I recall mine was 15+ lb when I put a gauge on my 237 when it was acting up. Found out my throttle arm had slipped and wasn't giving me that last bit of WOT. Wouldn't climb a hill to save it's ass.

Very cool piece of history.

I remember my first rebuild in early 80s. 302 in my 70f100. Last 20 miles. Rope seal fell apart and clogged oil galleries, crank was junk. I have never used anything but a rubber rear seal since! Rope was only thing until they offered rubber. Rear cap had a small pin sticking up to hold rope in place. Had to pound that out to use a rubber seal. By late 80s they changed to external rear main seal instead of inside the rear cap. Easy to replace, just pull transmission. I have a lot of engines under my belt and had good places to learn from.

Ya, just trying to make a final decision. The brgs all looked about new so I don't see any issue with the crank. It could stay in. But would be nice to strip it bare. Just have to price it. I will never recoup the cost of all this with what do with the truck. My buddy was over the other day and said "you coulda just run this". Well, it did need a head gasket on the back head(sooner then later). I through the 237 in and it is a slobbery mess. I'm not putting up with that again.

Crank isn't out to be able to press them out that way. Not that I haven't thought of removing crank. I also thought of having block hot tanked, new cam bearings, etc. Be nice and clean for paint!! I could have shop remove and install new liners? Might make a call? Not sure I want to hear the price!!!!! I have a local place that does truck engines.

I don't have the patience to tinker that long 😆. But sure do love looking at projects that look that nice. Besides I "use" my stuff too much to keep it that nice.

Interesting. Here is 6400 part number at Freedom. $590. https://www.freedomracing.com/am-pt-6400-c-cylinder-liner-puller-assembly-tool.html I wonder what the difference is between the two part numbers? Says Cummins and CAT. But ONI lists it as Mack? What is the bore difference between Mack and CAT?

I went to website and looked around. Seems legit? They are in Florida.

Wow, goes to show that some places will gouge you for every cent!! Pays to shop around. Thanks Joey, I will spend that kind of money. I see a difference in part number 6400 and 6435. Wonder what this is about?

Yikes!! It is now $2100. https://www.freedomracing.com/pt-6435-liner-puller-tool.html Definitely will be fabbing something on my own. Yes, work at a full outfitted machine shop. I can build anything. I only have this one engine to rebuild so, again, no sense in buying the tool. No one will buy it used to recoup my expenses. Did I read that these dry liners will slip out once they move a few inches(like a wet liner)? Or do they come out tight the whole way(I figure).

I had thought of making my own puller from round disc at bottom, a tall ring on top and all thread to pull up on disc. I buy tools I don't need but for a one time job, $600 is a bit steep.

You're bulking up my post count....😂 Pretty soon I'll be at 91 pages like your DM thread.....😉 I'm going to try to weld on a liner to see if I can get one to move. Hopefully this weekend? Once they are out I can order a kit!

Just a 5 spd? Did that for shifting I suppose plus a touch more road speed.

Chassis looks fantastic Vlad! I love restorations like this. I will never have anything that nice.

I only had $750 each for custom alum tanks. Granted that was a few years back. 6-7 yrs?

I patched up my B tanks a few times. Drained it down and tipped it up so fuel was away from step area that needed patched. Ran a piece of 16 ga and welded it solid. Didn't blow myself up. Diesel fumes area as explosive as gas. I finally gave up patching and ordered new aluminum tanks. Didn't I see Watts offering new steel tanks? Very pricey.

They are turning the big CAT motors like 5000 rpm now. Getting 2-3000 HP. Valve float is a big deal. Those huge valves need control. I suppose the bottom end is not really an issue with staying bolted together. Of course when they do break....it is spectacular!

He says never a problem. Never had one come apart on him. I was amazed. I want to see it run this summer. He is doing headwork, havig hard time finding someone to put fire ring back in heads. I asked my motor shop and he just cringed. They aren't set up for big truck stuff. I did find the roll pin on the pump coupler.