Freightrain

The late 7.3 got cats(not sure if it was a CA thing? ) when it went to 275 HP. Like I mentioned, mine was only 235. I was almost going to order a new one but the Mack came into the picture and I sold the PSD in fall 02. Picture from Jan 01, there were 4 of us going to West Palm Beach to race. Luckily it was no snow around. We did get blasted in Bristol and truck was a mess after that. I was in high cotton back then! New truck, new trailer. All shiny and black!

When I took delivery of my 2000 CC DRW PSD 6 spd, I cut the muffler off right quick. This was a pre CAT engine, so it sounded like a mini E9. They put cats on them in 02? They rated them at 275 HP, mine was 235 HP. All stock beyond that. Ran well, could pull Fancy Gap at 65 mph with my 14k lb trailer in 6th gear just fluctuating the throttle. I really do miss that truck.

Almost not enough room for protection AND get pump out of there. I know the bolts literally just unscrew enough to get them to wiggle out of fan and out. If they were 1/4" longer, you would have to pull radiator to get fan off. If you pull fenders, you may be able to work easier in that area without having to lean over the fenders.

Understood. It really isn't a big repair but poking a hole in the radiator would make it quite expensive! I don't think there is a better way to repair the leak. Don't think silicone will seal the bolts. So, like 6-7 yrs ago I was helping build a 41 Willy's for a gentleman. The alternator was acting up and the paint guy decided to remove it. He goofed and punched a hole in the custom radiator. That was a $1000 oops. He was pissed, "I'm a paint guy, not a mechanic!!". He was friends of the owner of the car. Had to reorder another radiator.

You should be able to get pump out with radiator in. I never had to try, but I know the fan is tight getting the bolts out of it. They are just short enough to remove.

Fire truck engine doesn't have one.

It will drive smooth, on a smooth road. Get a washboard surface, and it starts. It's almost rhythmic. Taa, taa, taa, taa, taa... The pedal is mounted to the floor, rod down through the floor to the arm that runs across the firewall. From there a rod goes to the pump arm. I need to buy a new pedal as the mounting bracket is broken and really corroded. It works okay but need to improve it. The firewall rod is only held by rolled pieces of flat stock. It's sloppy, and no real way to fix that better. The left side bracket is literally up against the back of the block. It is tight. I removed the passenger side and slipped a piece of 1/16" wall nylon tube to snug up the slop(wear) between rod and bracket. If the cab or engine wiggles around, it is going to wiggle the throttle. Thus if I convert to a cable, it won't be able to effect anything.

It always comes down to "follow the money". Greed controls everything.

Mine only has one arm. The hand throttle (not there anymore) just went through a hole to pull the same arm that the foot is attached to. I basically put the cruise control on the same set up. It is a cable, so any shake doesn't transmit to the throttle. My only thought is the linkage on the firewall is causing the chop. Either the engine or cab is shaking and wiggling the throttle.

Seems it has manifested to a point of my insanity. Likely been doing it awhile?? If I just hold the throttle steady going down the road or highway, the truck "shimmies" enough to shake/wiggle the throttle linkage and it makes it "chop". I can hear it out the window in the exhaust and in the engine compartment. If I set the cruise, it stays smooth(cable driven). I replaced a few heim ends in the linkage to try to take some of the slack out, but it still does it. I'm ready to convert to cable throttle if need be. It's just annoying as hell. As long as I am into the throttle, it is smooth. Hold a steady speed, chop, chop, chop, chop..... I don't think it is the govenor or it would do it with the cruise(which it doesn't). Watched a video from Macungie, and watched a B model leaving and I heard that stutter as he just slowly cruised along. I guess I'm not the only one?

I know what you speak of. I used that mounting for my AC compressor. I moved the filter to a bracket I made on the frame. My guess you need to pull the water pump housing off the front of engine and install new gaskets. I guess it is seeping through to the bolt area. No real way to fix it but tear into it. Shouldn't be a bad job actually. My 237 was missing all that stuff and had to reuse off my 673. Bolts to front of block at water passage(where chain is attached in picture)and ties into oil cooler(or bypass hose like mine since the 673 didn't have a cooler).

We have some in Akron, Ohio. Not sure why, maybe they were cheap leftovers from NYC?

Like tire sensors, they are a pain in the ass when they constantly fail. But, every tire still has a valve stem which allows a person to check the level(or put air in). My GFs 2009 Liberty eats tire sensors like candy at $100 each. We gave up years ago and just put up with the constant "tire light" on the dash. Smdh.

I have a piece of jute insulation,Mack rubber pad, and a hunk of carpet on the floor. It is cut tight and seals the clutch pedal and shifters pretty well. What I want to do is make a rubber gasket out of a pc of inner tube and hose clamp it to the column and bolt to the floor. Shouldn't have to worry about it for quite some time. Just need to get around to doing it.

Coming home from Macungie with no AC wasn't bad. Though my foam plug around the steering column fell apart and I had 200* air blowing up my legs the whole time. Gotta fix that too.

After 9 yrs, the AC compressor locked up in my B. Ya, I was spoiled . Gotta get it replaced asap.

Looks like quite a beast. Welcome to the site.

Welcome aboard. Looks like a pretty good start for an F model. More pics!

Years back, going to PA for a race, the scale house was open EB rt 80. It says "all trucks", so I went in. Empty place but he held me on the scales for a few minutes. I assumed for a good look and maybe a picture? Got the green and away I rolled. Ohio changed their signs to "commercial trucks", so I roll by. Makes you wonder, like that ol GMC hauling the two "coils"(at Macungie), would the creeper cops even consider it actually still working?? 😆

I spent Thursday - Saturday working our local truck show. It was like a blast furnace door was open. We had a sponsor give a whole pallet of water to give out during the show. We had 244 trucks show up. We have gone 350 on nice weather days. In all we all survived but it was brutal. https://www.ohvintrkreu.com/

Sorry, don't have a lot of use for it myself.

Window stops. Keeps from allowing window to crank down any farther during normal operation. But, removing the plates allows the window to be cranked down enough to allow the door panel to be removed.

Wiring harness through the valve cover is common problem with 7.3 PS. Our shop stake bed is a 99 F450 with 16ft bed. I ordered it new back then. Ford had a hard time building them so I took a fleet truck from someones stock. Had Ford AC installed (first company truck with ac). 330,000 miles and still runs strong. 6spd been worked on a couple times due to "non stick shift drivers" behind the wheel. I had to drive it home from a few places with no clutch(start in gear and go!). I ordered a new 2000 PSD, CC, DRW 6 spd for myself back then. Sold it after the B model came along. Miss that truck somedays.

I have a friend from HS on Facebook. He jumps on the Pedo Joe train anytime someone posts something against him. He will fight to the death online about how bad Trump is and has an ungawdly amount of links to back his stories. He always looking for a fight. I told him I don't have time for that crap. I got him to admit that Joe is worthless and that is all it takes now to shut him up when he goes off on somebody else about Trump. I just say " you think Joe is worthless" and he stops with the bantering.

Updated, just missing one name, on left. Sorry if met you and can't remember it