Freightrain

Ya, best guess. I put plenty in it during assembly. The injectors are dry so no chance of it lighting off yet. Should be ready this weekend.

Ok, for you all that aren't on FB, I downloaded it to my YouTube channel. https://youtu.be/GYsx_LYyLvg?si=0g62DRMPVQSb4vIh

You have to be on FB to see it.

https://www.facebook.com/share/v/1CDDxy8Zy1/ Not sure who is on FB but here is link.

Well, I posted a video on FB last night of it building oil pressure. I am getting closer to making noise. Need to paint second valve cover and get them bolted down. Intake tube from turbo needs painted. Make up fuel line and get some diesel out of the truck. I want to get my other radiator out of the basement again and hooked up so I can run it for a longer time like last summer.

I was at Buddy's house that is helping with my motor. He has 5 new rods for an E7. They are huge compared to an E6. I asked him what was different between motors. They are basically the same overall, but the front mount area is upgraded. He is contemplating building an E7 for his pulling truck and not tell anyone that it isn't a 237. 😆

Correct, you have 4-5 detent circled in red. That is the front of the box.

Thinking more about detents and interlocks. That sounds more a viable issue since it works fine without engine running. No vibration or gears turning and pulling on the shift forks. I would have to really think back to what all is going on with the shift rails when in a gear. This is only picture I have handy of lid. Not sure if I have anything better. I may have something on my home computer that I backed everything up on. It may give some insight on what happens when it is put in a gear and what may be holding it.

Unfortunately that is just AI crap. I was watching a short video this morning from a creator I enjoy(electronic stuff and has built CNC controls for his garage machines). His comment about YouTube was it is going downhill and "new creators"(just worthless copy cats) are stealing information and having AI just make the videos and trying to get paid for it like the real creators that actually researched and produced a video. He hopes that it burns out quickly and creators start back up again since many are just quitting. Ive noticed a real change in what comes across my feed. Mostly crap like you posted and I refuse to add to their "count" and pay day. Too much of it is not accurate and pretty worthless.

I get that reasoning. Anything is possible. That is why I asked if it hangs up with engine not running. When I pulled my 673 nine yrs ago, the pilot bearing was junk. Nothing left of lubrication and it was sloppy. Wasn't noisy that I could hear but junk just the same.

I would suspect in issue in 5th more then first with a pilot bearing. If it was a detent, it should act up sitting still. Can you shift it without engine running(once gears are lined up). If it hangs up then, I would think detent.

Sounds like clutch is not disengaged enough and torque load is holding it. Been there if I recall, especially if loaded on a uphill pull in first. Have to really finesse it slowly. I don't ever need 1st very often at all, it starts in 2nd without issue. I'm only 30k lbs loaded. Have you tried without the clutch and see if it allows the shift? Likely find the same situation. The shafts are spinning pretty fast and it won't slow down enough to releases the sliding clutch which is pretty heavy since it has reverse gear on it. That is a lot of mass and wants to keep pushing on first gear and won't let you pull it out. Unlike the rest which are just a small hub.

Little update. I found a wrench to get oil filter housing off 237 without any fuss. Happen to have an offset box end wrench that just fit. I got twin filter mounted and painted with motor. I have turbo feed line 1/2 installed but will wait to cut other end to length until after I get valve covers fitted and make sure line is correct length. My package showed up from Kevin with my offset plate for tip turbine along with dog leg rubber feed hose. I did find that these valve covers don't clear the mounting bolts for rockers(on top of Jake's). I think my 237s don't have this reinforcement plate under mounting holes. Or maybe it is just because I don't have gaskets in place yet? It's close, so maybe those will shim covers up enough. Will check into that. EDIT: with two gaskets it looks like it just clears. Likely just like the 237 was. I didn't got out and look at 237 covers. I am painting pieces and mocking up. Very close to getting intake pieces in for good. Kevin sent me a template to mark frame for R power steering box. Something else to get working on. Hoping to maybe prime this up by next weekend. I have filters and oil for it. Once I get turbo feed line on, it is ready.

Oh ya, that is an entire tear down deal. Have you had the lid off?

Good question. It doesn't do it every time? Only under a "heavy" load of acceleration or even if you just take off easy? Could be a detent ball on the shift rail or maybe the sliding clutch on the main shaft.

This is all the old Mack manuals show. No other details, just specs for bearings and such. I rebuilt my Triplex using similar picture and the instructions in the book. I made three videos showing the process. I didn't mess with the covers as they were not an issue.

No idea what it came from, just a stationary power unit. Yes guy said it had air/hyd? clutch and it was locked in one gear. Friend sent me his Eaton part number S2130 that he used in his autocar. Say it is a nice short throw in his little cab.

Ya, but I also have had this brief conversation before about certain models being taller which would have a shorter throw(ratio) and that would help as Mark notes. I wonder if something from like a new Western Star would help? Those cabs are TALL!

I need a tower. I hear there are variations in height and if I get a tall one, it will have a short throw and be good for my set up because I will cut it to fit.

It is a new Bell housing.

I posted in my other post but figured I would show it here also. All done.

All done. Bit rough getting the inner snap ring in them getting bearing push back down while holding out on input shaft. Then outer snap ring is just a touch too large for my pliers so I had to use a little piece of 3/16 steel I had lying around to shim it out enough to open the ring to fit. Finally got it assembled and clutch brake installed. Total lack of instructions but does matter which way it goes on? Bigger side on first? Or towards throw out bearing? This one is the torque limiting design. Thanks again for the input(pun) to get me to do this. Glad I did.

I have another friend that has a big torque wrench. I borrowed it years ago when I replaced the rear springs in the truck before I stretched it and out air ride in it.

Thanks for reminding me. I may just pick one up for that price. Looks like it may beep or show a preset number you want to reach? The multiplier allows you to pull 100# and exert 700#. The digital versions makes you pull the 700# yourself.

Oh, oops. I posted the removal of input in the 300 thread. Easy peasy.....