Freightrain

Seeing you want a useable truck, swap the rears the easiest way for you. If you don't mind lengthening the truck, find some rails with good rears and slip it over and bolt it. That is what I did with my B. 1991 Ford rails worked perfect, they were an inch taller but width wise was a perfect slip onto my original rails. I bolted it on over a 5ft overlap and stretched the truck 5 ft(using the whole 10ft of rails I got).

Had to go back and look at the picture. Interesting to see a wide nose on a B67 for sure.

I put the NOS doors on my B. Had them painted all pretty, along with door panels with glass. Only problem is you have to drag and jam those panels on and it rips the paint up on the doors. Ugh. I tried tape but it only helped a tiny bit. Still bare metal spots 🤦🤦🤦

Nice truck. Welcome aboard. Seems most Macks back in the day had contrasting paint on the frame. Looks good.

They switched mine to metallic because of the 237, I didn't want it to slip. It is smooth as silk. It was very inexpensive and only took a couple days.

Try calling these folks. They helped me. https://dwclutch.wpcomstaging.com/

Well done!!

I had a conversation with a Schaefer representative. He recommended their 239S, 50w lube. The original GL1 is no longer around. $165 for a 5 gal pail. It is what I put in my rebuild. These transmissions due have brass bushings on each gear. Previously I did use 75w-90 or 85w-140 from AutoZone.

How cool is that!

Fantastic!!

Single or dual disc? My Triplex was 2" input, so that sounds correct. I don't remember diameter? 14-15"? I had mine rebuilt at DW Clutch in Maryland.

Look good!! Baby steps.....

Well, it runs. I through a couple batteries on it and thought I might just crank for some oil pressure. Nope, it fired up IMMEDIATELY!! Nothing but some fuel in the filter, no lines hooked up. Scared the hell out of me. I have since removed the broke brass fitting from pump so I could hook up some fuel. The primer is just and wouldn't prime it back up. Plus the check valve was missing from below it. I borrowed parts off the 237, primed it and lit it off. Runs fine, not any smoke from valve cover. Once I get some water into it, I will run it longer. I may not have to rebuild it?? I measured the pressure from breather and it was 1# using a pressure checker. I don't know what is acceptable or normal? I have like a 10 second video on my phone but will get something more later.

Somehow, in Wally world.... I believe it! People today.....🤦

Car transmissions are easy. You can carry them around.... 😆. I can do a Ford Toploader in my sleep.

Thanks. I just kept picking away at it. Imagine if I had a clue what I was doing???

Sounds plausible. Can't believe one of them was a through hole? Kinda dumb. Though the two holes for the "filter cover"(that oil trough/magnet) are through on the passenger side. I'm not sure I used any RTV on the threads? One is just damp but not a serious issue. I may just clean that area and apply a dab of RTV on the surface(threads just below the surface) and hope for the best.

It's mobile again .... Needs a really good bath, but it runs fine. Shifting was a bit tough at first, then it warmed up and shifts better. It was always a bit snug when first out but the compound was really stiff. Seems much better after 1/2 hr of driving. It's quiet and handles don't wander around anymore. My Jake switch is outta whack since I had removed the clutch pedal. I need to get under there and line it back up. It will work once, then not again. Simple fix.

Well, last night I buttoned up everything, including getting the floor back in. I found a leak in the transmission, seems one of the side bolts I left out in the rear box must be a through hole as it seeped fluid when I had the truck running the other night so I siliconed the bolts in and need to wait for that to set up before running it again. I also did a whoops the other night. I installed the air start tank before moving the fuel tank so it is stuck behind the truck and no room to wiggle it through with the air tank in the way. I put the tank up on the rear chassis and once I pull truck out I will install the tank. Luckily it runs off the driver's tank. I should be able to test drive it tonight? Weather is good, roads relatively clear. We will see.

I looked at the shifter that was on my 5 spd that came with the 300+. It is the same mount. I think I can just purchase new ones and cut the handles off and reuse mine. Rebuilding them is a moot point. The sheet metal pocket the ball sits in is worn, the ball is worn, the pin is worn. Too much crap to deal with for what it is, if I can make others work.

I think that is what I did before, I know I had to weld the pins in. I found a shifter on eBay, has Mack pt no. but not sure what it fits. Looks like correct mounting.

Very nice!

I still need shift towers. Now that I have them mounted, there is still plenty of slop in the handles. Nothing much I can do for them, I have been into them years back. Pins are worn, shift ball is worn. But that is for another day. Empty spot in garage I forgot to get the frame mounts cleaned and painted, so that is next but have driveshaft in, shifters on and a few other misc things attached. Once underside is done then I will get fuel and air tank back on so I can set truck back on the ground. Same Rustoleum gold I used on engine but this stuff sucks big time. No gloss, scratches off really easily. Oh well, nothing a bit of motor slobber won't cover 😟

Well, it is back in the truck. Nothing hooked up, but it's in there. I will get on it tonight and start the long process of getting everything back off the floor!

Any post put on here can be sent off the rails at any moment. Talk all you want!