Freightrain

For 20 yrs all I have heard is "OMG"!! Been the complete opposite. Granted I could have gotten off much cheaper but I am not going this far and leave old stuff in there. I am going to make/repair the one gear bushing because it is so bad from lack of oiling. I have more pictures and some short videos just so I would have record of it.

Well, I have the main box home from hot tank and mounted back on the stand ready for assembly. I spoke with local supplier and all bearings I need are $1500. This includes that double race in the back box. Everything is in stock, nothing special ordered. This is totally against all I have heard about working on these old boxes. Be a week before they are all in my hands from locations in Ohio and Indiana. Then I can start getting the countershaft preload set. Some may choke on the price, but see what it costs to go through an Eaton?? Or get one to put in my truck. I'll have a bunch more then $1500 in it.

Yes, two seals for shift rods have leaked badly for years. On the list of needed parts.

Not sure what you are referring to? The oil tubes between the shafts? Mine are likely worn but nothing I can do about those.

Well, my initial intent was to replace it with something newer. But, I thought I might just see what I had and make a decision later. After tearing into it, it was just one bearing on the mainshaft that was the big problem. I have it completely apart and washing it up now. Fresh out of the truck. Lids off, back box off. Compound gears. Good shape. Grimey parts Getting mainshaft out. Sleeve was stuck. Clean parts. Mainshaft out. Someone plugged the 1st oil galley, hence bushing worn and bearing junk. Trashed, why it had 1/4" slop in shaft. Dressed the ID of sleeve so it slips over shaft easily now. Main box going for cleaning this week. I have basic bearing list. Everything seems available. Even the dreaded "double taper cone" in the back box. I found a couple new Timken on eBay for under $100? I heard that was the whole deal with rebuilding these old transmissions. All the rest are off the shelf. Will update as I go along in the next few weeks. I had no clue as I dug into this thing but I figured why not? It is already in bad shape, and if I can vastly improve it I might as well before going through the work of replacing it with an Eaton. There is still a lot of work to be done but I think it will work out in the end. I want to thank Matt and Kevin for their assistance in getting it to this point.

Most brake valves won't release until you have a specific air pressure. Mine is like 70#.

That phony air shifted three stick BS. Pfft. I have a REAL three stick truck. I have the triplex out of it currently for a rebuild. I need to post about it but I need a place to store the pictures. It won't let me download any more here. My Post Image acct is screwed up and won't let me use it anymore either.

Four holes on that cross member, mine had a plate with valve mounted to it. Only picture I have handy showing air lines. I was in the process of stripping the truck to stretch it and and the bunk. Long time ago.

Yup, that is where the air lines were hung. The original tractor protection valve was right at the back of the cab and the air lines were draped and hung on those clips.

Merry Christmas back to you. Sounds like you have quite the plans in action. Enjoy and be safe.

If it hasn't been pulled lately, I wouldn't move it until you know the linkage won't freeze up and leave the truck stuck where it's sitting! Not that those worked very well anyhow, but no sense in making matters worse.

Cool wing windows! Didn't know those did that?

Yup, always saw turn signal box on the upper left dash.

I remembering see that write up someplace? Maybe someone here posted years ago?

I followed the contour of the brace on the back of the cab. I then welded a piece of 16 ga for a flange to bolt the boot to. I mimiced the same outline on the bunk and cut the bigger boot down to fit and seamed it at the very bottom. Hasn't leaked yet.

I had them on Photobucket and when that site went rogue I deleted all my pictures. I have some on Photoimage and now Google says it has issues and won't let me open it due to security issues. This site has limitations on photos so I can't just dump a bunch on here.

I stretched mine and added a 42" bunk.

Surely no Driptroit! 😆 Once you get the cab tipped you can look at the front of the accy drive( below right of water pump) and it will be stamped 676???? Not sure what the proper designation for 300? I would pull the side cover off the injection pump and as you roll motor over watch for all 6 pumps are moving up/down. They may be stuck. They look like valve springs and easy to see if they are moving. Might take a few taps to get them unstuck. My 237 had a few hang up from sitting a long time.

He mentioned moving the wet line tank out of the way so he could hook to his trailer and not have the plate moved behind the rear axle. I doubt he would butcher it up but it's his so he can do what he wants. I always liked his red super. Matt's channel is good entertainment. Yup, live your life through theirs and not cost a dime.

Looks great. Thanks for sharing.

I did get the book and made a really quick read of it. Got through 3/4 of it by bed time the first day. I couldn't put it down, I wanted to know more and more. What a phenomenal job was done to complete this Dan. Thanks for the effort.

Yes, 40ft racecar trailer.

We have been talking for over a year about this project and coming up with ideas and parts. He was going to come to Ohio for something else and drop off and then that plan fell through. Now it is in my court. I am just looking at all avenues.

Yes, but I like my gears. It runs really well with my triplex and splitting the top gears. Right or wrong. Plus, in the event I happen to come up with more motor I have the options available with more gears. I'd rather skip gears then someday need them and not have them.