Leaderboard

Ok, it happened. My friend showed up with his log truck and we got the motor and transmission picked out, set down and separated. Sorry I didn't take time for photos because it was all hands on deck. I got them wrapped up enough for the rain that came in overnight. I have a heavy tarp for longer use. I still need to get Jake parts off yet and likely use the twin oil filter set up and oil cooler off the 237. The triple filter I heard is a bit too big and will get in the way of power steering. The oil cooler I already rebuilt when I put 237 in the truck so it should be good for quite a while yet. Kevin All is making plans to stop down and drop off the power steer box and will likely buy the triplex for his bus. I need to load up the old 5 spd and deliver it to friend that came to pick the engine out. He also gets the old pistons from the 300 and the deep oil pan. Not sure what all I will get into today? I may roll new main bearings to get things started so when liners are in I can just slip rods in and torque everything down. I need to borrow a friends BIG torque wrench. Pretty sure I used it years back when I reinstalled rear springs and had new U bolts (before I stretched it and put air ride on it). We're making baby steps......

So, today Zina went to Home Goods to "see what's half off". She said she bought a lot of stuff that I'm sure we don't need, but it was half off. Then when she got to the register she found out that it was "half off the half off price" so she went back and got even more crap that we don't need. Now I'm going to need a storage trailer to put all this crap we didn't need in.

Comparing transmission mount locations. I bolted Eaton on backwards just to compare heights. You can also see how far forward towards engine it is compared to Triplex. Scribbled sketch. Eaton bell is 5" higher and 3" forward. This gives me something to work with to make mounts before it is dropped into truck. I hope.

Yip I suffer that as well....Once its cheap thay have to buy....Girls are the same the world over... Paul

Dug up some pics I had of some old R Models in my town back in the day. The new red RD at the dealer ended up pulling log trailers (there were also two like it in the steel mill that pulled a 100 ton float), and the black one was a lumber hauler. The oversize load was a project in the steel mill here, Algoma Steel.

But don’t worry Newsom will take care or everything

Duh, guess I should have dug out the NEW thrust washers. No slot but does come with one new pin. Guess that answers my question.

The 18913 I have has the two bolt pattern at the rear of main box for that rear hanging mount. It looks like it had something bolted there and this was in a power unit, not a vehicle.

Should be able to read it all ifbyou zoom in a bit Paul

Generally, here if the rear mounts are on the engine 1/2 of the bell, a rear transmission "leaf spring" type or rubber bisket mount is used. On set-up's where the rear mount is on the transmission 1/2 of the bell (thinking Volvo/White) then there is nothing at the rear of the transmission. It may have something to do with how much weight is cantilevered off the back of the bell housing, esp when aluminum housing are used. Just an observation

Not trying to say it will not work, just wanted to point out somewhere to check. The new mount is in a "different area code" as you put it, so needs checking, which it sounds like you have done. New things in different real estate is always a concern.

I have noticed in Australia when RoadRangers/Eaton are installed in Macks aftermarket, a rear transmission mount is also used, these range from a propper engine mount rubbber deal to a section of leaf spring out of a car or pickup as you blokes call them These might be only 2 or three leaves, I wonder are they really needed or not ? Paul

These were modified for Australia like this, I think the head lights were to high on the U.S. cabs and this was the answer So All Kiwi and Australian Cruiseliners have 4 head lights like this Paul

The top of the bell is still just below the floorboard so the mount will be going down and back from the mount point on bell. I don't see an issue with clearance. Time will tell, I have a welder....it will all fit.

Sound like Zina is related to my wife!! A one way "Pack Rat", everything comes in and nothing go our or gets used!!!!!!! Thankfully her leg problems have slowed her down..

Bottom. I don't have to pull floor to get to it.

only in certain areas

hopefully the rear holes are the same as the front on the fuller!

Long road ahead....

So I have a buddy that I haul with that has a 05 cv with a 370 in it I am gonna go and try to look at his this evening and one maybe figure out where it goes and 2 figure out where it goes in the wiring harness I have found 2 wadded up harness on top of my motor that are zip tied one is pretty long both with 2 prong plugs, but I'm not getting a lightning bolt so the circuit must be closed somehow

Wow, you’re moving right along

Unfortunately the Dealer's in Connecticut is not Friendly and operate Multi dealership's knowing price 'offering's from other's .........I will not Purchase anything from them ......

Loosen 2 or 3 lines at the head and pump the primer till they bleed, tighten back down 25 lbft,, and fire it up. Foot to the floor and rev it up to clear it out..

i’ve only done one set of them way back in my 20s, but that I was too stupid to measure anything

lol ain’t no thing my brother I did think it was a little cocky but coming from you it could be anything come on???

Just to add a little more to this and several have mentioned it, but a Sheppard unit would be another option. Certainly a power steering box from another truck could be modified to fit and some have done that. From what I have seen, the Sheppard unit came in two sizes for B models, large and small. These were bolt in units that used a cut off and modified B model steering column with a u-joint at the bottom to mate to the box. The smaller one was for lighter trucks and the lager unit was for B61's and up. Old timers have called this "In the box Power Steering" compared to the add on units like Garrison and Air-O-Matic. This style to me is the best. Both units dramatically ease the efforts of steering and maneuvering loaded trucks in tight quarters. Someone may have one of these units available if you ask around. They are more rare and harder to locate nowadays. I lucked out and came across a large one when I bought 1/2 a B61SX 10 wheel dump to get the transmission for my first restoration and conversion to diesel of a B42. I didn't even know it was there until I disassemble the truck. Funny thing was, I didn't end up using the transmission, but all the little parts and mounts were invaluable to the swap. Once I got the correct pump and reservoir set up for it, it steered like a car. Loaded or empty, standing still on pavement it only takes one finger to move the wheel lock to lock. It really steers that easy. I added a Garrison unit to my B73 restoration and while it's a very good assist, it doesn't compare to the Sheppard box. Since L's are not that dissimilar to B's it wouldn't be difficult at all to add some sort of steering assist to your truck, like the Garrison unit HarryS offered up. Good luck and keep us informed of what path you take? It always adds to the general knowledge of the group.

Your Fussin again ! didn't strike me as as smart ass!

Bob... I just re-read my reaction to your post about .003".. I think I came off as a smarta$$.... Sorry about that, I was complimenting freightrains ability, and not trying to discount you.. 😅

If hes worried about it he can use the Hytack trick I guaranty that will be fine! Cheap insurance! Hi-Tack Gasket Sealant, Aerosol Can, Red : Amazon.ca: Tools & Home Improvement Permatex 80546 High Tack Spray-A-Gasket Sealant 99Ma, 255G : Amazon.ca: Automotive

A photo fresh to hand that my son took the other day Not Mack but, still a good action shot Paul

Nothing wrong with a little boobage....provided its attached to the right frame... Paul

Yes Bob. .003" is thinner than paper. Freightrain knows what hes doin and what he's got. There are set limits for a reason. But this engine was running without blowby under the heads, so as he said, it will run again...

well thinking about a 003 feeler gauge its paper thin,,,,ok got it,,bob

im surprised that thing doesnt bust the camera Lense ,,,,uuuuuuurrr

To take just .003 off now would be a PITA. It was fine before, it will be fine now.

Larry, I don’t understand why you can’t take them to work and knock them down. If nothing else it would clear your head. Good luck.

Sorry

My new friend runs that 237 pulling engine. He knows how to make them run! Even stays together at 3400 rpm! Yikes. I'll never do that but maybe I will try to get a few more HP out of it at some point. He, his dad, and grandfather are big Mack guys and weren't afraid to make power. His Dad's comment to me was "I can make that 300 smoke the tires on that single axle". 😆. Hold the phone..... I need it to last a long time first.

I use high tack spray on around all water and oil holes on the fibre part of the gasket both sides! Just a habit thro back from my v8 days!

Yup even is most important! No more than two thou! Under one head!

Yes sir... My knowledge is only what Mack taught me. I Have only built stock Mack engines by the book. I have not ever colored outside the lines.. With that said, even though my engines STAY running... I wish I knew how to make small changes to improve performance..

Great friends. There are 3 of these trucks in Brazil, here they say it's an N32 model, year 1978. It was imported to Argentina for the construction of Itaipu and in 2006, acquired by a Brazilian company. Today, all 3 belong to collectors. Does anyone have any idea what engine it originally used (today it has an adapted Volvo), it is known that it was 500hp!

are the gaskets leaking exhaust? if not, you can try to re-seal the lower studs. remove them and clean the threads, then put High temp RTV on them and re-install.. It's a slippery slope but, you can try it. Hopefully the nuts come off, or remove the nuts when the studs are out. They are m12x 1.75 thread, flange nuts.. the final torque is 100lbft, in 3 rounds, 25lbft, then 50lbft, then 100lbft.. I have had some luck doing this without removing the manifold and doing all 12, but like I said, slipery slope.. and hopefully the gaskets dont spring a leak.. one bad gaskets means the whole thing comes off.. oh,, the depth of the stud is about 3/4''...