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I can’t believe you are still working on this truck. In the time you’ve been messing with it I’ve managed to take the transmission pan off my 68 Nova and set it on the roof, put my 53 Chevy pickup up in jack stands and pull the front wheels and replace half the spark plug wires on my wife’s pickup. At this rate you won’t make it to Macungie next year, yet alone this year. I’ll never get to see this truck. Mike

I don’t have a gun but may be able to get one however this eaving we installed a numbered water temp gauge in addition to factory gauge .Thanks for your input

I Love It !

I put some of that aluminum brightener on a rag and tried to clean off the timing marks. Sprayed it with carburetor cleaner too, and rubbed it with fine sandpaper. I still can't read any marks on it.

before the days of the poppit ball vent , tanks had the 1/4 copper tubing which came straight off the 90 degree fitting = out couple of inches then had a towards the sky bend which looped back down 1 1/2. never had to worry about a ball sticking; only situation was the darn bees making a nest and clogging the pipe! LOL

for ;points elimination, you really can not beat the pertronix ignitor. uses the factory distributor, cap, and rotor. all you need to do is remove the points, put the pickup in their place, slip the magnet over the distributor shaft under the rotor, and run the two wires out to the coil. after install i usually open the plug gap up a little, and advance timing around 4-5 degrees.

any chance the thrust buttons are out of adjustment and the cam is walkin' a bit?

have you taken the belts off and run it?

No it is not. That's pretty easy to pick out from everything else

do you have an infrared temp gun? if so, when it gets hot, pull over raise the idle up and check the water manifold at the rear of the rear manifold, and see if it is close to what the gauge says. there may be 10-15 degree difference due to shooting the outside of the manifold and not the coolant. just curious if you have a gauge issue or sensor issue right now. BTW... your truck is a CV-713 not 513.. Jojo

are you hearing the air compressor kick on and off?

04 Mack AI 350 HP empty or loaded turbo engaged goes in and out and heats to beginning of red on gauge stop and cools down quickly . Only codes is 3 injectors mis firing . Fan working ,Radiator ,air to air, ac condenser cleaned .Replaced map sensor / boost sensor, changed both thermostats , pressure checked air to air with no leaks . Could these 3 injectors that show misfire cause water temp heating problem . Thanks in advance for your Mack knowledge. Been a truck owner many years but new to the Mack game.

Just bought a "new" truck, an 81 with an e6-350 and I'm starting to use it, I have been hearing an unusual knock in the front of the motor at idle, it sounds almost like two marbles hitting each other, or a hard wood block being hit, and it is inconsistent, or it makes noise at random intervals. Not a constant repeating noise. I first thought it could be a bad harmonic balancer so I replaced it, but no change. Is it possibly a fuel knock? It doesn't seem like it is because I can only hear it right in the front of the engine, possibly the geartrain. I don't want to go too long and destroy an engine, but I also don't need to tear it apart if it's minor. Help would be appreciated

Sounds like what happened to me but I ran out of Fuel on Caryville Mountain in Tennessee. My problem wasn't the vent either. Mechanic mixed up the lines when he put the tank back on.

That big gas engine likely has the same carburator base as a Holley 4150. I think that one easy plug n play one is a (Sniper) ? Get some clean gas to the engine , I think I'd be more worried about heat'n up the ignition some way. I'd imagine someone makes something that can make it transistorized instead of points. A nice hot high energy ignition will be harder than a good rebuild on a old Holley. ( I'm assuming it has some form of Holley on it). 401 might only be a 2 barrel . Either way, a kit probably is available .

Hamilton Fuel injection is another one. The TBI are more or less GM TBI clones. I don't like TBI as it has most of the vaporization and throttle icing problems of a carb without the advantages of port injection. I don't know that one is made to feed that big LV engine either.

Perhaps this will clear it up a bit.

typically 50 PSI of freon is enough to start the compressor, one of my issues was not being able to jump start or test the compressor with the engine off. it is a 3 wire harness, unlike the 2 wire harness we know.. wont hurt my feelings if I never learn how to fix this disposable compressor.

I had similar problems with the vents freezing shut in the real cold weather. At first I thought it was the cross over line with a slug of water in it (low point in the system) but later I realized that if I took the cap off it would flow to the draw tank. Seamed to happen when I was running in real cold weather (-20 to -30f) fuel and air in the tank were warm enough but the moisture in the warm tank would freeze the vent.

I respect that.. I was a builder at Mack for years and the price of re-man w/warranty out weighed an in-house rebuild.. too bad.. I took pride in my builds..

Ahh, I see I suspect that front cover that is screwed on is a dust cover keeping water and dirt out, and is a conventional clutch below that. Kind of like the old chafe shield on the Harrison A-6. I think I can see a clutch coil behind the pulley. If he has one of those, I would pull the cover so I could see what the clutch is doing. I haven't run up against one of those yet. The clutchless are a worse almost throw-a-way compressor. I was pondering how it could push instead of pull, now I don't think it has too. Thank you for the picture. I never thought much of the APADS, make it more complicated than it needed to be. I had mine set up with Hi and Lo cutoffs, and the low would lock-off until re-set. It would shut the system if 25% of the refrigerant (or there abouts) had leaked, and there was a secondary low pressure that would prevent clutch pull in below about 45 psi on the high side. One pound loss on a 4 lb system and you might not even notice it in the cooling unless very hot. It would throw some for a loop, but was like the old thermal limiter fuse GM used to use, it could shut down before all pressure is lost, keeping some oil in the compressor.

Well for the price I just got in a reman I am going to go that route

I would guess if you had cleaned that breather earlier the truck would eat all the organic from the tank even together with algea and alu brightener. But that's of no matter now and doubtly you would like to provide experiments putting the old tank on and putting old dirty gas in it. P.S. The girl worth a half of the thread.

I am not able to answer most of your tech. questions, GW.. but what I do know, is it makes trouble shooting A/C issues harder, especially on a road call, and you dont have a laptop with the correct programming. Even with A-Pads on the truck I have struggled with them. I dont like to just throw a compressor on as a guess, I want to know why, before I spend the customers money..