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Engine no start after rebuild


ranchhopper

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I finally got the engine all together after getting my injectors back put on fresh fuel filters got the lines all pumping fuel at the injectors and no start will fire on a tiny whiff of ether but will not fire up. The exhaust will pump out clouds of white smoke so its getting fuel my friend who is a mechanic where I work says its probably out of time the valves have all been adjusted so now what. I have no idea how to time this thing in the driveway but that's what we think burnt the pistons up is improper timing but I have no idea where to go next any suggestions would be appreciated not a very happy day here.

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We think we may have the problem at least diagnosed looks like they had the pump off at one time but they never took the front inspection plate off (factory seal still intact) so I took it off and saw the timing plate was all the way to one side of the adjustment slots. I loosened the bolts and moved it from one side of the slots to the other still wont start still puts out the white exhaust so my mechanic friend says the dumb asses probably have it in one tooth off. Its like when you put a distributor in a gas engine one tooth off and have to clock the distributor all the way in one direction to get it to run but its just a bit to far off to start and run good. So now Im going to have to take the pump off and try to get everything adjusted right so it runs good enough to get it to a pro so it can be timed the right way its always something but that's what you get when you buy a truck with the top end of the engine already taken apart putting something back together when someone else takes it apart is always a clusterf!!!k.

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Im going to take all the lines off the pump and my mechanic friend will pull the pump and get it where it belongs he says there is a coupler on the front of the pump with a roll pin locator he says sometimes if it doesn't quite line up the pump will start then stop with 1/4 to 3/8 inch gap then the pump can be forced on by drawing it in with the bolts he has seen that happen before.

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Im pretty sure we are talking about the same thing spill timing should be done any time a different pump is installed or at least thats what I was taught it takes two people to adjust it one on the crank with breaker bar slowly turn the motor over the other pumping the lift pump and watching the fuel cut off on number at the injector pump need to pull the valve on the injector pump first on number one

someone on here no doubt can provide the proper Mack literature so you can see how it is meant to be done and it can be done at at home ok no special tools needed

Paul

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Mrsmackpaul said how it might be done on many old day's diesels.

You need to turn off the #1 "top fitting" on the pump i.e. valve holder body, the part wich #1 injector line is attached to.

Than take out a valve stem (don't touch it by thingers and keep absolutely clean) and drive the body back.

For the best you need a half of a injector line (or just an old one) U-formed to put onto the valve body (port #1 of the pump).

One end of that pipe is on the #1 port and another is free and near an empty can.

Than pumping by hand prime pump you will see fuel coming out of that line into the can.

Turning pump's drive shaft you will find a moment the fuel stops to drop out and become again if drive the shaft back.

The very moment the fuel stops run is the beginning of the #1 pump section getting pressure to injector line.

Putting the pump of that condition onto the engine with the crank on the injection mark makes the deal.

You need to double check it when installed and correct along the flange if needed.

The matter of things is a plunger it its burrel. Plunger goes up being forced by pump's cam shaft. At some point it covers the fuel intake hole in the burrel's side. After the hole is covered plunger forces the fuel up. And it has no way but into injector line. That's the injection start point.

When you pump fuel by prime pump you forces it to plunger barrels. It comes to the input holes in the barrel walls and can come inside if a plunger is below the hole. The valve above the burrel doesn't allow the fuel to come into the line until high pressure is achieved so you need to remove it. With no valve fuel comes out of the pump port and you see it. Turning drive shaft you get the #1 plunger near the intake hole and that moment located indicates the correct drive shaft position.

Hope you can and want to understand it.

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Никогда не бывает слишком много грузовиков! leversole 11.2012

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Vlad a Russian writing english has done a much better job of explaining than this Australian could ever do thanks for that mate and that is the way I have done it and check it half a dozen times after woulds just to make sure it dosnt cost anything except time and some beer for your mate pulling the engine over by hand and is 100% spot on when done right

Paul

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Thanks for the comment Paul,

I was worrying any body could figure out any good figure out of what I posted :)

I would note it doesn't cost a penny spent but the most important it guarantees you have the job done and you know it was done right.

Cheers from white fly neighbourhood mate!

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Никогда не бывает слишком много грузовиков! leversole 11.2012

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We pulled the pump yesterday as expected the drive gear was one tooth off the IP had been forced on with the bolts drawing the pump onto the engine pushing the roll pin into the bakelite drive gear one tooth off. I will take some pictures when I bring the gear home from work the moral of this story if your putting the pump back on the engine and it doesn't slide together easily DONT force it together using the mounting bolts to draw it tight.

please don`t force it get a much bigger hammer :)

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