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1947 LJ Mack restoration


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the dash is a easy removeal.take off windshield molding screws-then are 4 1/4 inch bolts.two on each end 7/16 socket and spanner,and the steering colum bracket.this is after you've disconnected all the gauges-oil,water,air,speedometer,amps and fuel.it only took me about a couple of hrs and I didn't know what I was up against.

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there is a place in Maine that makes them, they are in the wiki section. You could make one yourself for about a 1/4 the cost, not much wire in the old trucks. The wire schematics I think are in there too.

Ya i bought a harness from them when i redid a dodge m-37 i had it was a lil pricey but it was made with all the orig. military bell connectors and looked good when it was finished wasnt to hard to put in either and i was only 17 lol. But ya if i had to do over like for the lights on my B im just gonna start from scratch. Easier on the wallet that way
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I have heard the Maine wiring guys are good and I have purchased a harness from Harnesses Unlimited in Wayne, PA (610) 688-3998. It was pricey but I am getting another one from them for a different truck because it is very well done.

Jim

It doesn't cost anything to pay attention.

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I think it easier to make your own harness (or buy one) than it is to do each wire. Carefully tag each wire terminal, remove the existing harness in one piece, then using the schematic to get the factory color code for each wire order the wire, terminals and conduit you will need to replicate the existing harness.

Start with the longest wire and cut it to length plus a foot or two. Solder on the terminal on one end, I prefer to do the dash first, lay the wire out and go to the next shortest, etc. Tape the bundle up every couple of feet to keep it organized and slide the conduit on. Keep in mind that you will have wires leaving the loom at various places. You can use a pull string to fish these out of the conduit (my preference) or you can completely cut the conduit and tape it at every junction.

I use Brillman http://brillman.com/store/ , but there are several vendors out there. You will need to decide if you want to go with cloth covered wire like the original or use plastic wire that is less expensive.

Chances are you will pull a lot of wire out of it that does nothing. Over the years things get added/deleted and new wires get run to "fix" a problem with an existing circuit. When I did my 52 I removed a five gallon bucket worth of wire and everything still worked!

Money, sex, and fire; everybody thinks everyone else is getting more than they are!

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  • 6 months later...

I wish my cab looked like that...

I have just bought a 1949 LFSW with that cab from stephenellis (who has posted lots on here). It is a big ask I know but I would really value anything you can help mw with, dimensions, pictures etc. The cab is in poor shape particularly the firewall and dash. Are they common to other types?

As soon as I can I will post up spome more pics to follow on from stephens excellent work. As you can imagine this is a rare truck to begin with; over here in the united Kingdom it is even scarcer so parts are very difficult to get/

I am a professional vehicle restorer though (www.rustytrucks.com) so I am no stranger to fabricating parts from scratch.

That said I really need to get the AC done first....

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If you contact the Mack Museum they still have all of the original shop drawings for any part made for your truck. Send them the PN and a suitable donation and they will send you the shop drawing to make the part from.

Generally you will get the complete assembly drawing, but you can ask for drawings of all of the sub-assemblies as well. I usually ask for the assembly drawing and then ask for any sub-assemblies I need based on the PN's on the assembly drawing.

They have drawings for AC's as well if you need them.

Money, sex, and fire; everybody thinks everyone else is getting more than they are!

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