Vladislav

Swishy mate, don't you have any pics or drawings of how that 2nd steer axle looks and the way it attached to the chassis? Interesting setup but uncommon in the areas I can roam over to put nose into and feed my couriosity. Vlad

Not bad at all. Life's going on, you have your money safe on the account what means you still can choose. A bit of time spent but some emotions and life experience.

There was one in a yard in Minessota. But the content of that yard went off at some time so the truck probably went to a different owner. If not scrapped.

Maybe that's not a bad idea. This thread already conteins the most of useful info on the subject and also is a good reason to get on mind of how Leslie Eversole is currently doing

4 valve E6-350 as I can see by the look of the valve covers and breather tube attachment. Ok, going further it's installed in R/RD688 of 1988 or 89

Such sized project is better done with sandblasting. And that would save paper for different applications Thanks for sharing that remarkable artifact of Mack history.

Best B-day wishes!

Also try contacting Matt Pfahl in CT, google his name and you will get to the web-site. He had LS firetruck for parts in his yard and as I remember it was an open cab and the doors were in place. So hopefully the windows either. Sorry to hear that unpleasant story. Vlad

Funny but nervous story. And frustrating so far. Of my (huge) experience of vehicle purchases I took worthes off many cases which looked absolutely cantencerous and the persons who I had to deal with were at least to say clowns. One exciting thing in such entertainments is you seldom get a really nice thing by really easy way. Maybe excepting cases when you pay high price but that is also not always an exception as we know. In this particular case if the cost was not low (as I figured) I would let the things to cool off and see if the seller gets more clever figuring he met a buyer who could really pay the price. So in this case he would better slow down on his "complicated tricks" and put actions in a common order. If he does you would have your hands freed up to inspect the car more deeper and if Ok offer him 75% of the original cost as "things got changed on your side of the life during the time passed". I sure don't talk you to go buy the car in the situation you have now but just think the case might develop in different directions including the positive one. If nothing good or no news at all it might worth to visit that town in a month or two when you have ocassion driving that direction, come to a local pub or another public place and try asking about that car "a friend of yours once saw there" or so. Pretty sure the car is quite remarkable for such the small city and many people would share facts about it and its owner. Anyway it's always easier to change matters as long as the money are with you. And don't forget to keep us posted

Wow! Looks like I missed some part of the party. Kept the project in mind but found out it had great development since I checked in last. Very impressive and nicely done job either by the result and the art of fabricating. Very pleased to observe all the stages. Once again, many thanks for detailingly represented every step, sure a real help to anybody who would rebuild an L-model cab. I'm also in the line but my story is a bit different since military cab is in fact a convertible, with no metal roof. Good luck on the continue, will keep my attention more close.

Donny, A question - don't you have one 7.5x22.5 5 hole stood centerd still wheel? I need it to complete the one in the picture to get a pair. Need it shipped to NJ but that's another story. I was going to visit Global Truck Traders for a while but that turned out a bit long way to North from the area I used to be in. Vlad

I'm also on a hunt for it. But my original hinge is relatively good so I keep hopes to fix it.

Didn't you ocassionally save a pair of front springs off the MH you scrapped a couple years back?

At least there were stamped steel and cast alu covers. I tell about E6 and EM6 engines but earlier engines could have them either.

Seems like one attractive offer anyway.

Just a thought, not a particular advice. Once i looked at rear engine mounting brackets of my R-model and a pair of such ones off a RD chassis. They looked almost similar to me until I noted RD's had less "meat" in the attachment area. Figured those were made to be used with a double frame so had 1/4" ground off to be set into the same position as R-model ones put to single rails.

What kind of hinge do you mean? The one which connects two halves of RD steel butterfly hood? I couldn't find the # handy but that part is NLA for a while. Watts reproduced it in brass for use in a B-model, you can find it in B-model store on their site. But cost like a dsiamond and I'm not sure it would be long enough for your particular RD.

RL/RS originally were West R-models, produced in California. 600 and 700 series differed by the length of hood, 700 were longer to accomodate V8 engines. After closing Hayward plant in Cali in 1978 or so RS/RL700 were cancelled and RS600 (and RL600?) production moved to Macungie plant on East Coast. But those trucks continued having their original style of the chassis - straight frame rails all the way front to rear. R-models which were originally produced on East Coast (Eastern R600 or R700 but not RS or RL) had almost different chassis with rails spreading at the front end and lowering down and narowing there either. Those chassis had absolutely different front crossmembers and front engine mounts. And probably rear mounts also. Telling further Eastern R's had different front mount on series 600 (shorter hood) and 700 (loger hood). Western RS/RL seemed also having different style of the front crossmembers but as an early and later styles. Unfortunately I don't have particular images or drawings of all crossmembers or front engine mounts used on all R-models of all modifications and all years of production. But what I'm sure of the thing you should start with is determining what exactly model and production year your truck is. Vlad

I agree with what was said above. Too probably basic 1/4 thick R-600 single rail frame and rear suspension of the same ballpark of capacity used. A good (and light) combo for on-highway use. If plan to offroad with sufficient loads it seems better to look either for a RD or DM which would have basically heavier chassis than many of R-models.

Better to take two! Would be really handy in a back yard.

Probably the matter was their typical loads - cabs - were not heavy.

This truck was posted on here for some reason and at some time. I don't remember the matter of the fact but suppose the pics would be of help to you. As you can see this is Western F (FL?) and has aluminium frame rails.

Best B-day wishes Al!

The widest point of the most any truck is outer sidewals of rear tyres. Bodies installed later could be a bit wider but in most cases they don't get outer much.

I think they used the same roof, back and side panels to make both cabs. Floor, windshield frame and probably cowl were different. At least they look on pics that way. In theory it could be not that if the entire length of the cabs is different and different roof panels were used. You need to take some basic measurements off both the cabs to figure. Seems the need is the question either