Keith S

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About Keith S

  • Rank
    BMT Veteran VIP

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  • Website URL
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/emack/albums

Profile Information

  • Location
    Florida

Previous Fields

  • Make
    Mack
  • Model
    B
  • Year
    1962

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  1. My chamber support bracket has three flanges. I added some cracked-weld pics: S-Cam Repair & Cracked welds 5/8"-18 is what's on my axle tubes - the threads were badly butchered. I still haven't found a 5/8"-18 thread chaser - 9/16" seems to be the biggest. A thread-chaser is not, and never will be, a tap A thread-chaser re-forms the existing threads Dulling a tap can make it a thread-chaser Use a on a wire-wheel on a bench grinder to dull the tap. Be really, really aggressive in dulling the tap - you want the "dull tap" to re-form the existing threads, not cut new ones. With fine threads, false starting the dull-tap/chaser is easy so take your time If the hole is beyond saving, there's always helicoil repair - which is a lot easier said than done for a 5/8" bolt, on really hard/tough steel. Not a job for the biggest 1/2" drill.
  2. Today's finds

    It does look cool. I had my B shipped from Maine for about $1 a mile.
  3. Had some spare parts............

    For those looking for Model B wiper arm replacements - not identical to original but... Anco #44-04. ebay for about $25 each; amazon for $21 & free shipping. The length is adjustable and comes with both 5/16" and 3/8" tapered, knurled driver for ISO shaft (double flats). Wiper Parts.pdf
  4. Rear wheel bearing adjustment procedure as stated in Mack's Wheel Bearing document: Preload: Torque adjusting nut (while turning wheel) to 250 lb.ft Loosen adjusting nut 1 full turn Torque adjusting nut (while turning wheel) to 50 lb.ft Loosen adjusting nut as needed to align the adjusting-nut pin with a hole with anti-rotate thing Install outer nut & torque to 300-400 lb.ft
  5. I've never tried the heat/cold thing with wheel bearings. I once did the freezer thing with pressed in piston pins - took too much time for lubing, aligning...etc to do it again. I've never seen an axle spindle that didn't show any sign of wear on the bottom. Maybe not enough to catch a fingernail, but enough to measure; less than 0.001"
  6. Rear Brakes

    The linings are all the same and symmetric. The shoes are not. The casting's are imprinted with either "Upper Left / Lower Right", or "Upper Right / Lower Left". Before I took the other side apart I thought there were four different shoes and linings. They shoes only fit one way... well, when put together correctly. Here are some before's and after's.
  7. Motor

    I won't be removing any springs at this stage - just want to get the thing road legal. While all the electrics are not as heavy as the gas engine, the front end will have about 1000 lbs (motor is 250 lbs and the front battery pack is about 700 lbs). The two side tanks (battery packs) are about 300 lbs each. Except for the gas engine, the drivetrain is all Mack (heavy).
  8. For roller wheel bearings (ball or cylindrical): The idea behind the inner-race (not the outer race) rotating on the spindle is to increase bearing life - it does not rotate fast, but the rotating inner race is another bearing surface. If it didn't/doesn't rotate, the rollers would quickly wear the bottom of the inner race. However, the rotating inner race can/does cause wear on the bottom of the spindle - normally the top of the spindle has very little (if any) wear. You'll almost always see minor wear on the bottom 1/3rd of the spindle - that's where the load is. Unless specified as a press fit, putting a few punch marks on the spindle does not make the bearing a press fit, it just messes up that precision-ground bearing surface. The manufacturer spent a lot of money machining that surface.