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Keith S

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Keith S last won the day on June 15 2018

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About Keith S

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  1. Keith S

    front bumper to 1952 b model mack

    You still have this?
  2. Electric conversion update: A/C Stuff - Firewall Heater - 4000 watt Radiator Grill - moveable louvers
  3. While not original, anybody interested?
  4. I'm going to be printing some horn buttons. Still fine tuning the prints. At this stage there will probably be four slices super-glued together.
  5. Keith S

    Rear axle wheel bearings

    Go with the larger radius Unless anyone can find it in any service manual for any vehicle, DO NOT USE ANY LOCKTITE on ANY wheel bearing races or bearing surfaces. Because: There is heat transfer between the hub and the press-fit outer race. It's press-fit for several reasons It's not supposed to spin There is better heat transfer with metal-to-metal than any fluid between surfaces. You should not oil or lubricate the outer race before pressing (driving) it into the hub. The oil acts as a heat barrier. The bearing's inner race that slips over the spindle should spin - it is an additional bearing surface. Mack, Ford, Caterpillar,... etc. would not waste money precision grinding tens-of-thousands of spindles if it were better/cheaper/easier to press-fit the bearing onto the spindle. If the spindle is excessively worn ON THE BOTTOM (0.005 - 0.010"), that mean that the spindle is worn and should be repaired or replaced. Punching and chiseling dimples is not a repair... it's a hack-job when you're a thousand miles from nowhere. Locktite thread-lock and/or retaining compounds are not intended to fill gaps greater than 0.15mm... 0.006 inches.
  6. I was amazed at how easy my B steered when barely moving - as fast as the starter would turn the engine. The engine was blown so I jockeyed the truck around with the starter. It might be easier to adapt an electrically assisted steering column?😁
  7. First fitting of the new tires and rims.
  8. So here's what's inside an air wiper motor. And an idea of what the side tanks will look like.
  9. Version 2. I like vertical better.
  10. I'm working on the rear lights; turn, backup, brake, and license plate. Except for the backup lights, everything is the correct size. What do you think?
  11. Here are some recent photos of wiring for the new all-electric Mack truck.
  12. Okay, tires/wheels/rims look much better than I thought. A picture is worth... well, pictures are free so I guess it's the price of the camera. I'll stop at the tire/rim shop and order the 22.5 rims and tires. SnowDog, 2 miles/gal !!! Gallons, not litres. The cost of that electric Mack is looking better (once it's built). I'm hoping for 140 miles (city driving) for about $5. Probably 70 miles for $5 "cruising". If the battery charge is really low (not a good idea), figure 4+ hours to recharge.
  13. I just got a quote for six wheels/rims (8.25x22.5) and tires (Cooper Roadmaster) for $3100. The wheels/rims are reasonable, but the tires... I suspect I won't like that gap but... Any pictures of mounted 22.5's and that gap? And that "fix" to hide the gap. If I didn't know better and have the split rims to compare, would I know the difference?
  14. I'm ready for tires & rims for my '62 B46 and I'm trying to figure out the rims for the Dayton hubs. I need six new tires and probably 6 rims too. It currently has 10.00 x 20 bias ply tube-type tires. The build sheet shows it originally came with 11.00 x 22.5 front & rear. It looks like I have a combination of three different 2-piece Firestone & Goodyear rims - some rims are 20 x 7.5. A couple rims are damaged/bent A couple Firestone rims have non-matching side rings At least one Goodyear has what looks like an old lock ring I'll happily replace all the rims if I can figure out what I need Tubeless or tube-type are acceptable as long they fit my spoke hubs Accuride catalog shows a lot of stuff, but not enough information to figure out what I need So, What is available that looks good?
  15. My chamber support bracket has three flanges. I added some cracked-weld pics: S-Cam Repair & Cracked welds 5/8"-18 is what's on my axle tubes - the threads were badly butchered. I still haven't found a 5/8"-18 thread chaser - 9/16" seems to be the biggest. A thread-chaser is not, and never will be, a tap A thread-chaser re-forms the existing threads Dulling a tap can make it a thread-chaser Use a on a wire-wheel on a bench grinder to dull the tap. Be really, really aggressive in dulling the tap - you want the "dull tap" to re-form the existing threads, not cut new ones. With fine threads, false starting the dull-tap/chaser is easy so take your time If the hole is beyond saving, there's always helicoil repair - which is a lot easier said than done for a 5/8" bolt, on really hard/tough steel. Not a job for the biggest 1/2" drill.

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