Keith S

Big Dog
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About Keith S

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  1. Up to now most of my pictures have been of fixing/restoring/modifying the truck for changing over to electric. This album will start the electrical
  2. I'll be bobtailing for a while... and I hadn't thought about rocks and debris hitting the cab. On a different topic and question after seeing Hobert's: Shock absorbers. Did B models come with shocks? If so, how and where were they mounted?
  3. I'm at the Mud Flap & Hanger stage for my B46 eMack and looking for pictures to get ideas. The picture below is what came with the truck: VERY basic, welded on, no lights... The new color scheme will be Tonka Truck Yellow. I'm considering three different hanger choices (all with a basic mud flap; maybe Tonka stenciled on the bottom) Old school coiled spring hanger Straight bar - round, rectangular, or oval Straight rectangular bar with three lights You guys have some pictures of your mud flaps, hangers, and hanger length? Seems like 30" long hangers would stick way out there - yes, no? - Keith
  4. Good'ol rust. There's a sense of satisfaction when using a needle scalar - for about 20 minutes. Then you realize you have several hours of dust and dirt and paint and... But, a lot cheaper than blasting. It would work great on your heavy, scaly rust. Good on cast iron too - That's how I found multiple cracks in a rear hub.
  5. Too bad there aren't more pictures of the B models. The Divco trucks are cool too. I was considering a Divco before I bought my B46.
  6. Odd cars you have restored

    1953 Studebaker - brought to my shop by the original owner who bought it when he worked as an engineer at Studebaker.
  7. I sort of agree with no-heat - if it's a new truck. But when the whole project is considered I suggest that 50 years of rust, load-stresses, vibrations, accidents, unknown repairs and methods of repair, frame straightening with big hammers (thinning the material), lots of heat and a lot of bending force... will have a bigger impact on the material strength than localized heating of the rivet & area. Unless there is documentation, it's really hard to determine if something is heat treated or it's simply a high-strength material. Auto companies use high-strength steel and anticipate accidents and damage repair, so they make accommodations with welding guidelines. Mack Body Builder instructions also show proper welding and modifications to the frame/chassis. With repairs and restorations and with unknown history, everything thing is a comprise. Seldom is an old vehicle "correct" and unmolested.
  8. Heat is your friend... lots and lots of heat. Hot and cool cycling the rivet will breakdown the rust - air cooling between cherry red is fine. And a hammer... a BFH (big hammer) and punch. Sandblast the frame. Or, if you have a lot of time, ear protection, and strong hands, an air "pistol needle scaler" works great on a frame. To see how much work is involved you could try Hazard Fraught, but the needles won't last long. Don't buy the cheap replacement needles. I'm not a fan of POR 15 or any rust encapsulation. If you go the POR 15 route, spray it, and two coats.
  9. B Mack Right Rear Hub

    I have an 8QJ414 on my B46. Flickr photo below There was a couple of these in the Northeast area for $200 each plus shipping. I had a hub (not the 8QJ414) with what I thought was one crack - it had three cracks that I welded with a MIG welder. Cast steel, not cast iron so they weld without too much worry of cracking. It was a really poor casting that had a lot of factory welding/repair work - which gave me confidence in repairing/welding
  10. That's an option. Slightly larger with 9mm pin would work - but now you're mixing inch & metric which can be annoying. Going larger for 3/8" pin... now you weakening the hinge. Everything's a compromise.
  11. From the album eMack Photos

    I've been trying different ways of documenting the eMack's modifications. I'm leaning towards Flickr. Here's a link: